1983 E Cleanup

[6pkrunner]

....and it seems to me everyone, including yourself, are doing some very fast but thorough work.

Why thank you very much. As for speed, it seems like it gets into the self feeding mode and away you go. But to restart after some down time is a bit harder, unless an incentive like a mint seat shows up.

Keep it up and keep the pics coming. You guys are starting to get my juices flowing and I'm hankering to get back at it myself......soon as I take a stick of dynamite to the man cave and clear out all the crappola so I can get some manouvering room

We'll try to keep pictures coming, if you get past the dynamite stage and get some pictures of your own up.

[Frank Z.]

Like your 'exploded' view pics of the parts. Be a great GS coffee table book.

[still_bluenoser]

Lookin Great Mike!

[GSexpress]

That seat won't be dissapointed with it's new home. As it came off a nice bike. See pic. It also shows why I let it go.

[6pkrunner]

Yes that certainly was a very nice place it vacated. Sharp bike you have there! How many miles on her?

I see you have the front anti-dive system unhooked. I'm thinking of the same thing. Never found one that worked they way it was supposed to - IMHO.
And is that a reflector on the front fender stay to replace the bigger round ones from the lower fork tree?

[GSexpress]

Yes that certainly was a very nice place it vacated. Sharp bike you have there! How many miles on her?

I see you have the front anti-dive system unhooked. I'm thinking of the same thing. Never found one that worked they way it was supposed to - IMHO.
And is that a reflector on the front fender stay to replace the bigger round ones from the lower fork tree?

It only has 11K mi on it, but still needs a few things. The reflective tape does replace the standard ones but it also hides some flaking paint on the fender. Tipical flex flaking that is common on these fenders.

The anti dive was disconnected when I got it. I plan to reconnect it. It can be made to work. most of the problems with it comes when the fork oil gets changed. The normal upgrade is to go with heavier fork oil, bu not with thease forks. They came with lighter oil that earlier models to begin with. Then going heavier than 10 wt makes it worse. 5 wt oil, min air pressure and 3 or 4 on the adjuster with step 2 on the preload was the hot ticket back in the day. I'll be using synthetic fork oil for the first time on these and we'll see if that works the same.

[6pkrunner]

A few more assemblies cleaned up during the last few weeks. One of the nicest was the arrival of an excellent set of 1985 GS1150E pipes. These are nearly mint. They came from a board member in Florida. The pictures don't do them justice.

But being 1150 pipes, I do not know if the rear mount will work as is or a new mount will have to be made. And I don't know about how it will fit at the bottom of the frame and at the rear kick up. Guess that bridge will be crossed when it shows up. Has anyone done this? Someone had to have tried it.







A few more pieces cleaned up





and the pile of parts so far



And a shot of how the poor thing looks right now

[Homie]

Ditto.
What magic dust did you use?

Mike,
Your ability to restore parts brought up from the Titanic to shiny gleaming like new appearance is nothing short of amazing. Like Daniel asked, we are still wondering what kind of "magic dust" you are using to turn those turds into shiny gems?? Do tell......

[JEEPRUSTY]

Show some pictures of the car.

[Good Times]

Those are some shiny bits for sure. I like it!

[6pkrunner]

Yeah, I'm starting to get a handle on this old girl, and as I just vented in a PM, I'm totally upside down on this old girl and its going to get way worse yet. Guess I went in wide eyed and bushy tailed. By the time this one is done, I'll be so upside down that it'll look like the Giza monuments have flipped over. Starting to get a bit twitchy.

Show some pictures of the car.

I've posted some of the Charger in another thread. But here are a few...

1969 Charger R/T 0.030 over 440, ported, gasket matched 452 heads with 2.14/1.81 valves, 9.5:1 hypereutectic pistons, 292 degree/.509 lift ex-street hemi grind cam. Factory hi po manifolds gasket matched and opened up, same with the intake and a later 1000 CFM Thermoquad. 727 with hemi clutch plates, hemi servos, bands and springs, 2800rpm stall convertor and 3.55 8 3/4 rear. 2 1/2 inch exhaust





1969 road runner hardtop, 440 0.030 with 4.15 stroke crank - 493.4 cubic inches, again opened up 452 heads with the same 2.14/1.81 valves, comp cams solid split pattern cam 235/248 @0.050, .535 lift, headers with 3 inch exhaust to mufflers 2 1/2 inch tailpipes. 6bbl intake with mechanical opening for the end carbs. 833 23 spline (non-hemi) transmission with Hurst Competition Plus shifter and McLeod clutch. 3.91 8 3/4 rear.



And some future projects. A 1969 road runner coupe that I will turn into a 1968 coupe - like the first one I had many moons ago. Two 1971 'cudas in there one hardtop, one ragtop, both 383 auto cars. A 1968 Dart GTS - 383 car but I'll put a 440 in it and stick the 383 in a corner. And last but not least a 1969 Super Bee was 383 but I got it with a 440 in it.




Sorry for the rehash for some of you.

Mike,
Your ability to restore parts brought up from the Titanic to shiny gleaming like new appearance is nothing short of amazing. Like Daniel asked, we are still wondering what kind of "magic dust" you are using to turn those turds into shiny gems?? Do tell......

A long flesh eating process. Either an ultrasonic for starters or a bath in a chemical stew of heavy duty cleaner, over cleaner and the last bit of toluene I've got. Most of it is elbow grease and going over the same part multiple times. Get any of the chemical stew on myself and it'll eat right into skin. Not the most user friendly stuff.

It depends on the condition of the part as to what it gets. I'm trying to save as much of the originality as I can. I'm trying not to paint any of the plastic parts and so far they have all come back very nicely. However none of the body cushions or grommets have survived as they were all either already busted or missing or fell apart upon removal.

There is a very long road ahead of this old girl and every step I take it seems like two are added. Ahhh the joys of hobbies.

[7981GS]

The Cuda's could be a happy retirement as they are selling for their weight in gold.
Nice looking FJ1100 also.

Eric

[Mysuzyq]

A long flesh eating process. Either an ultrasonic for starters or a bath in a chemical stew of heavy duty cleaner, over cleaner and the last bit of toluene I've got. Most of it is elbow grease and going over the same part multiple times. Get any of the chemical stew on myself and it'll eat right into skin. Not the most user friendly stuff.

It depends on the condition of the part as to what it gets. I'm trying to save as much of the originality as I can. I'm trying not to paint any of the plastic parts and so far they have all come back very nicely. However none of the body cushions or grommets have survived as they were all either already busted or missing or fell apart upon removal.

There is a very long road ahead of this old girl and every step I take it seems like two are added. Ahhh the joys of hobbies.

Wow, those parts look amazing! That chemical concoction is obviously pretty paint-friendly.....I did wonder if you had touched up/repainted some of them, before you posted. Great work!

[6pkrunner]

That chemical concoction is obviously pretty paint-friendly..

Oh good God no! The plastics take a very thinned version of it and it can't sit at all or it will burn the plastic. But worked with a cloth it will remove a bit of the surface layer each swipe. Get the dead plastic off the top and its all good. Scratches and chunks out of the piece are there with you forever. If you're really determined you can get the scratches out but guaranteed by then the **** has found a hole in even new gloves and is working on skin just as well as paint.

But the straight up stuff on paint surfaces takes the metal right back to the surface and will eat and loosen up a lot of the rust. A go over with a smooth wire wheel and the parts look as just cast to hit with paint. Leave it sit on metal 1/2 hour or so and the paint just wipes off. Then its to ensure you get all that crap off the part as if there's any present, it'll start to eat the new paint put onto the metal. Gotta get it all off.

Here's some updates.
A few more parts cleaned up. The arm has new needle bearings from Suzuki which really weren't priced too highly. Don't know of any aftermarket sets and didn't look. The stock ones will more than suit me.




A few of the electric parts.



The harness is nearly perfect and unbutchered.





Operative word - nearly.

The bike has Dyna 3 ohm coils and a Dyna - S ignition system. How these parts came - in one swoop and miswired or coils first and the draw drew too much heat. Whatever the reason there was some intense heat generated for a short while over something it wasn't too pleased with the situation as it stood. The newly located ignition wires were right across the regulator connector when they melted. The three ignition wires themselves aren't too bad - a bit stiff, but the regulator's plug was melted and two of the wires fell off as soon as I tried to remove what was left of the plug.



Here's the harness area. The harness connector shattered and fell away, the wires have melted plastic on them, Two of the three ignition wires can be seen burnt - the longer light green(? -I'm color blind) and the orange on top of the green near the cover.



And how she stands now. I've pretty much gone as far as I can without attacking the exhaust. Its been soaking since I got the bike in hopes of freeing up some of the bolts that looked bad. They are bad - real bad. The bolts are Allen head and the sockets just slowly snapped chunks off of the inside hex. Can't even get a good grip to break them off and deal with them later. I'm into a grinder in a tight area. Not good.

[Homie]

A long flesh eating process. Either an ultrasonic for starters or a bath in a chemical stew of heavy duty cleaner, over cleaner and the last bit of toluene I've got. Most of it is elbow grease and going over the same part multiple times. Get any of the chemical stew on myself and it'll eat right into skin. Not the most user friendly stuff.

OK, so it wasn't "magic dust" but a "chemical stew" instead. So what exactly is the recipe to the stew? I would like to attempt to replicate some of your resurrection of parts but I don't want to randomly go mixing hazardous "flesh eating" chemicals together and come out looking like "Two-Face" from Batman. Care to share the recipe, or are you in the process of patenting it?