1984 gs 750ef

[Karstan]

Some questions for the community

1) Anybody know where I can get those screws that hold on the plastics? They look like this:




2) My rear brake caliper is pretty rusted and I think it's seized. Is this something that's fixable? Should I just try to find one in better shape? Sorry, I forgot to take a photo. But I can if necessary.

[Karstan]

Yeah, I'm hosting at picasa (a google service). I'm going to try a few things and see if I can't fix the problem right now.


Edit: FIXED!

[GateKeeper]

Pictures are looking great.....

what was the FIX ? just in case we have other members with a similar issue....

build is looking good by the way

[Karstan]

Not as good as yours, GK. But, I hope to catch up!

Regarding the fix for the photos: I just switched my photos over to photobucket. Picasa just doesn't seem to play well with these forums.

[GateKeeper]

Good ole photobucket....to the rescue....LOL

ya Picasa and Flicker both a pain for forums.....

are you getting new SS Allen head bolts for the carbs ?

you will need the following

Description Bolt Size Washer Size Nut Quantity
Caps M5X16 16pcs - M5 flat washer 16pcs
Bowl M5X16 16pcs - M5 lock washer 16pcs
Upper Rail M5X12 8pcs
Lower Rail M6X12 8pcs

[Karstan]

Thanks! That will save me some time! I was going to take the old screws to a few places in town to see if they can match. Now I can just call around on Monday!

[Karstan]

Well, I spent a ton of time on the bike today. And while I was working I decided that I'm going to follow in the footsteps of those who came before me (SV, GK) and strip this puppy to bones.

I started today by dropping Carb #1 into the carb dip:


And here's what it looked like after it came out (6 hours later) and got a warm bath:


Next, I finished taking the wiring harness off. It looks like a spinal cord or something. I'm DEFINITELY going to be building a new one. This one is a mess:



Then I decided to try and track down that oil leak of mine. First I cracked open the generator cover:


Looks good in there... but there's no gasket! Ah, okay, I actually already knew that there wasn't one and it was leaking somewhat. I'd cracked this guy open a year ago when I replaced the stator. But, I also know that there's more oil coming from somewhere else.


Next, on to the engine sprocket cover. Oh, boy! What a mess! There HAS to be a leak in here!





After some cleaning:



Then I took the sprocket off. The oil seal seems to be in good shape, but the o-ring is missing. So I've ordered that.


Then the gear indicator sensor. Oil definitely flowed when I pulled that off. Is that normal? Well, the o-ring is missing there as well so I'll be ordering that.


continued...

[Karstan]

Since the sprocket was off, I went ahead and took the rear wheel off:


And since the rear wheel was off, I took off most of just about everything else:



The only reason the rear shock and swing arm are still on is because I couldn't get the bolts to budge. Soaked them in penetrating oil and hopefully will get them soon.

Went ahead and took a look at my clutch as well:




Clutch plates/fibers seem to be in good shape:




Some burn marks on the metal though:


And that's about 6 hours of work. Seems like there should be more to show for it!

[GateKeeper]

Lots of good progress.....very well done....on your way to a great rebuild....

you say your going to make a new wiring harness ? why ?

yours don't look that bad



unless there is something I am not seeing, and you have broken wires, or burnt wires, or cracked, corroded connectors and so on.....

just clean it up, wipe it down, use Q tips on the connectors clean them, get some dielectric grease, some good quality electrical tape, wrap over the existing tape and all and it will look just like new....

see part of mine here, sorry I didn't take any pics before I put it back in









Forgot to add,,,,,let your carbs sit in the carb cleaner longer, shoud be at least 24 hours for a good clean, then strip them down further and clean up some more,
.

[Karstan]

Thanks GK!

RE: The harness: My photo doesn't really do it justice. Yours definitely looks like it's in much better shape. Mine has a lot of cracked insulation and corroded connections. Plus, there are a few places where there's been a bad patch job (admittedly some of them are *my* bad patch jobs). I suppose I could try to salvage some of it, but if I'm going to redo some of it, I might as well do all of it.

RE: the carbs, I'm following this carb tutorial: http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...d_Tutorial.pdf and it says to only put them in the dip for the bare minimum of time, particularly with fresh dip. As the carbs weren't in too bad shape, I figured 6 hours should do the job. Is that not enough?

They came out gleaming! I was going to blow them out tomorrow with the carb spray (per the tutorial) to make sure they were good. Do you think I should just put them back in the dip?

[GateKeeper]

If your finding them clean then no no need for being in the cleaner longer, but check all the crevices, nooks and crannies, if nothing is left then your 6 hours should be OK, and your using the carb cleaner stuff, I used PineSol, so I was OK to leave it as long as possible, the only crud, and very little, that I had left was in the bottom of the bowls, otherwise mine came out really good.

Yes if you have a bad harness, broken wires, burnt wires, then a new one would be in order, but if it's just the exterior insulation, take that off and put on some new stuff, connectors can be cleaned or replaced. Mine was in really good shape, no cracks, burns, etc, so I just cleaned up all the connections and new tape, and greased all the connections, and re-installed, unless I start melting wires, I should be good for another 30 years....LOL

[Karstan]

Today, I don't feel like I accomplished much, even though I spent about 5 hours on the bike. I dipped the #2 carb and then tackled the bike, hoping to get the frame finally stripped of parts.

The swingarm, rear shock, and fork all came off pretty easily. I forgot to take a photo of the fork though:



The engine was a bear. Everyone says it's difficult to remove, but I couldn't find any info in the forums about how to go about it, other than turning the frame on it's side. I tried taking the valve covers off, but they wouldn't come off with the engine in place. After fiddling with it for an hour or two, I decided to take off the oil pan. And voila! The engine popped right out, further adding to the nice oil slick I've got on the floor of my friend's garage (I will be scrubbing that up on the next nice day we have).



A couple photos of the frame:





Unfortunately, the weather forecast doesn't call for any nice days in the next week. so I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to clean all the grease and grime up and get started on prepping for paint. In the meantime, I'll continue to work on the carbs and maybe fiddle with the engine a bit.

[Karstan]

No photos to post today. I just finished cleaning up all the nuts, bolts, and screws and took them to get zinc plated. I also picked up some stainless bolts for the carburetor and exhaust pipes.

Speaking of the carburetor, I dipped the #3 carb today and managed to lose that itty-bitty washer from under that pilot screw when I was rinsing everything off. I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get a solitary washer? I've only seen full kits on all the vendor sites.

[Johnson]

http://www.cycleorings.com/washers.html

[7981GS]

No photos to post today. I just finished cleaning up all the nuts, bolts, and screws and took them to get zinc plated. I also picked up some stainless bolts for the carburetor and exhaust pipes.

Speaking of the carburetor, I dipped the #3 carb today and managed to lose that itty-bitty washer from under that pilot screw when I was rinsing everything off. I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get a solitary washer? I've only seen full kits on all the vendor sites.

I could try and find out if I could buy a hundred of them for under $1.00 tomorrow if you wish.

Eric