GS750: White Orphan Baby build

[DannyMotor]

Yessir Eric, the entire thing, the upper triangles, the bolt, and the spacer.

Also, those brakes you sent... they came off a GS1000? Same with the TT? Well, the TT's work with my forks... but after some research, (yeah, leave it to now) the front forks are from an 80-81 GS750L... so the brakes don't mate up properly... they look the same, however the mounting bracket is a slight bit different than what I need.

Oye vey. Haha. No big deal!

[TheCafeKid]

Going to make a comment about the leading forks versus the center forks and someone feel free to tell me if I am wrong. I have the Suzuki 550L.. essentially the same thing as a 750L but with a smaller motor. What, I ask, is the difference really in frame structure between a 750L and a 750E other than the forks on a E are center mount and the ones on a L are forward leading? I don't suffer from handling issues any more than my E counter parts so what would the difference be on his bike versus using Stock E forks? I don't think there is any. Just my $.02 based on construction observation.

Paul

BTW

Bike is looking good Danny sorry to here bout the stator cover.

Measure the angle of the steering mast. Then get back to me. I'll measure an "E" and we can settle this once and for all

[DannyMotor]

Measure the angle of the steering mast. Then get back to me. I'll measure an "E" and we can settle this once and for all

The triple trees are completely different as well. The "L" are almost in-line with the steering stem, and the "E" are about 2 inches forward. I think that is what compensates for the offset. The frames SHOULD be identical, but the steering stem bearings on the L are a bit wider (50mm) at the bottom because of the tapered bearings...

Again, just going off the trees themselves...

[7981GS]

Didn't you say that you had a 750E model?

Eric

[DannyMotor]

Didn't you say that you had a 750E model?

Eric

Yes... but the forks are off an 81' GS750L... hence the need for the 37mm triple trees. I do have ONE brake caliper that fits... it's just the mounting bracket that's wrong... so I can totally use the brakes you sent for the build, it's just a matter of finding the correct knuckle/mount.

This is what I'm dealing with:



and this is the one I need:

[DannyMotor]

Anyhoo... got the frame painted, motor mounted, and started doing a little work on polishing and yadda-yadda...

Got my o-rings on order, so they should be here next week, then I can button on the carbs, throw the covers back on, fill her with oil and see what's up with the electrical...


I got a little "curious" and did a mild mock-up. I forgot how freakin' huge this bike is.





Those are water droplets, not paint bubbles!

[DannyMotor]

Started taking measurements for the steering head bearings.

Looks like Top has to be 25x48x13, and bottom has to be 30x48x13.

Hopefully I can find them with seals.

[ValorSolo]

I kinda wish I hadn't seen this thread cause now my work load has tripled.
Everything is looking so good on your bike and you've shown me what needs to be done to mine.
If we were next door neighbors I wouldn't get anything done on my bike.
I'd be too busy watching yours come to life.

Great work. Really inspiring.

[Steve]

I did think of that, but the leading forks are identical in height from top of the tube to the axle, so the only 'real' difference is the axle is set 1 inch forward of where it was... which, if anything would make for more stability (longer wheelbase) and slightly slower turn in, which I'm fine with. I don't think it'll affect anything negatively.. shouldn't cause a wobble, or anything weird like that. I'm pretty sure, if worse comes to worse, I could simply raise the forks up in the trees a bit, 10mm-15mm max.

Whether the bike has a leading or not does not really affect the stability, if the bike was designed for it.

Yes, adding the leading axle forks to a bike designed for straight axle fors will increase the wheelbase, but it won't necessarily add stability. There is a factor in the front-end geometry called "trail", which is the amount that the wheel trails the steering pivot point. Larger trail numbers make but bike more stable, but at the expense of adding effort required to change direction. You have decreased the trail, which might make the bike twitchy.

Great job on the rebuild, nice pictures and all (even though they tend to be a bit blue). One suggestion on the pictures, though, please hit the ENTER key twice between the links for the pictures, like you did in post #39. It separates them and keeps them vertical, not like the ones in posts 20, 25, 26 and 28. I know I'm just a lazy old fart, but scrolling sideways to see the pictures and read the text is a bit of a pain.

.

[TheCafeKid]

750 didn't get 37mm forks until 83 I don't think. Maybe your forks aren't 750...instead 850 or larger. Or you might double check with a some calipers that they are 37mm and not actually 35mm.

[Big T]

Nice work so far

About all that gunk in the starter cavity, it probably came from a leaky seal on the cam chain tensionser. You may want to redo the tensioner before you put the carbs back on. Very common problem

[DannyMotor]

I kinda wish I hadn't seen this thread cause now my work load has tripled.
Everything is looking so good on your bike and you've shown me what needs to be done to mine.
If we were next door neighbors I wouldn't get anything done on my bike.
I'd be too busy watching yours come to life.

Great work. Really inspiring.

Thanks man! Appreciate it.

Great job on the rebuild, nice pictures and all (even though they tend to be a bit blue). One suggestion on the pictures, though, please hit the ENTER key twice between the links for the pictures, like you did in post #39. It separates them and keeps them vertical, not like the ones in posts 20, 25, 26 and 28. I know I'm just a lazy old fart, but scrolling sideways to see the pictures and read the text is a bit of a pain.

.

Yeah, sorry about that. 99% of the time it's hopping between phone/facebook/here to get things done. Just got a new phone w/flash and 8mega pixle camera... so shots from here-on-out should look MUCH better.

750 didn't get 37mm forks until 83 I don't think. Maybe your forks aren't 750...instead 850 or larger. Or you might double check with a some calipers that they are 37mm and not actually 35mm.

I did some research and they're off a 80-83 750L. From the other parts I had to go off of (seat, shocks, rear hoop, directionals, brakes, discs) my guess it's off an 81. I've been talking a lot with Eric about finding the proper parts and we're very close to figuring out what I need. They're definitely Suzuki forks, and definitely from the 80's, and definitely 37mm. Haha.

Nice work so far

About all that gunk in the starter cavity, it probably came from a leaky seal on the cam chain tensionser. You may want to redo the tensioner before you put the carbs back on. Very common problem

It wasn't really 'gunk' but more-or-less trash from garage/riding without the starter cover on the motor. None of it was oily, or 'residue' like... but more or less just dirt, soot, and grease from improper wrenching.

That's all gone now though!

[Redneck]

Keep it up Danny she is looking good. Won't be long now. Especailly at your rate... sheesh.


Paul

[crooney]

'80-81 1100E forks as near as I can come up with.
Unless other models shared these forks?

Eric

[DannyMotor]

So, parts have been ordered:

Fork Seals
Tach cable and seal
Cam cover gaskets
Engine emblems
Clubman Bars
Grips
Clamps, bolts, other little doo-dads
Spark plugs

O-rings for the carbs, intake, and new bolts are also on the way...

CAN'T WAIT!!! Been at a stand-still for a few days and it's driving me nuts! Going to work on finishing up all the polishing in the next week or so, until all the new bits come in.

Attacking the wiring tonight, finding out what it needs... lots of cracks, and burns. This is going to be fun.