1981 gs550l

[Johnson]

I got the opportunity to own my first bike, a 1981 Suzuki GS550L. The deal was that if I can get it running (doesn't have to look nice) I can have it. It's also only got 6,000 miles on it. So, I'm currently in the process of looking through the bike and seeing what needs to be done. It has been sitting in the elements for roughly 10 years without ever being started or turned over. I hooked it up to my pickup a few minutes ago and to my surprise the all the lights still work (Except the right blinker and dims) and it actually tried to start. I had the gas tank unhooked, but it was good to hear that it still tried starting.

I'm starting off tomorrow by buying a new battery, fuel lines, oil, a few oil filters, and some gaskets for various parts.

I'm not sure yet if I want to clean the carbs just yet. Although, I'm sure I'll eventually have to do it, I might try some seafoam first.

I would like to keep this bike as close to the original as possible. Any suggestions and tips are welcome.

[cowboyup3371]

Welcome to the site. First things first, go here http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/ and start reading to your hearts content. Download the service manual for the bike, look over the READ ME section on Cliff's site, and do a search for the Top Ten Newbie Mistakes thread.

Also, put your bike info in your signature block and your location in your profile so if anyone here is close by we can help.

[DannyMotor]

I'm starting off tomorrow by buying a new battery, fuel lines, oil, a few oil filters, and some gaskets for various parts.

I'm not sure yet if I want to clean the carbs just yet. Although, I'm sure I'll eventually have to do it, I might try some seafoam first.

I would like to keep this bike as close to the original as possible. Any suggestions and tips are welcome.

Hey there, and welcome! With only 6k on the clock, there shouldn't be much to worry about...

You're starting off with a good list there. I would drain all the fuel from the bowls (the brass screw) or at least see if they'll drain. Then put about 1quart of gas in the tank mixed with about 3 cap-fulls of sea-foam. Close up the bowl screws, turn the fuel on and let the carbs fill up... then do your oil, battery, and yadda-yadda.

Also, you might want to get some new spark plugs, and (because the engine has been sitting for so long completely baron) pour a little bit (cap full or so) of sea-foam into the cylinders and let that sit for an hour or so.

Before you start it, I'd even consider getting some di-electric grease and hitting all of your harness clips and connections with a little cleaner and grease to prevent any shorts that could've occurred, or may occur once juice starts flowing through the wires.

Last thing you'd want is to have a fully charged 13-14v system on aged, brittle wires, run a short or fry up your harness.

Good luck with it! Keep us posted on the progress!

[Flyboy]

Welcome to the nuthouse, pull up a floorboard and make yourself at home, there is all the GS info you could ever wish for right here, and plenty good folk willing to share their knowledge.
Sounds like you have made a good score there, with a little work it should be running in no time, and you will be a GS richer.
For starters, Cowboy has given you good advise, check out Basscliff's site and read up, and download what you need, its all there for you.

I'm not sure yet if I want to clean the carbs just yet. Although, I'm sure I'll eventually have to do it, I might try some seafoam first.

There is your first mistake, unfortunately there are no short cuts to GS happiness, those carbs need to come off and get stripped right down, dipped and overhauled with new O-Rings, the bike may only have 6K on it but those carbs have been standing for 10 years, fail to do this and you are going to be in for a world of frustration.
There is a comprehensive carb cleaning tutorial on Basscliff's site, download it and follow it to the letter, and you will be assured of a bike that will serve you happily for many years, as well as all the other maintenance items listed.

Oh yes, and we like pictures, lots of them, not of you...of the bike.

[Johnson]

Found out today I'm gonna have to clean the carbs. I was hoping I could get this thing running ASAP.

Roughly how long will it take to disassemble, clean, and then reassemble the carbs? How long for a newb?

I'll get started on Saturday morning probably.

[D-Mac]

Found out today I'm gonna have to clean the carbs. I was hoping I could get this thing running ASAP.

Roughly how long will it take to disassemble, clean, and then reassemble the carbs? How long for a newb?

For a complete cleaning from start to finish, allow for a work-day. It's not hard at all (I just did mine and I've have limited experience with carbs before). The tutorials on bikecliff's site are excellent and take you step-by-step through the whole procedure. The best way to be sure is to use a carb dip on the bodies (others prefer to boil them in pine-sol or lemon juice but I like Berryman's cleaner). A dip/boil will require you to separate them from each other and completely dissassemble them first. If you want to try a quick cleaning you might just remove them from the bike, open the float bowls (bottoms of each) and blow some cleaner through the various jets (holes; the pilot jet is especially prone to clogging - it's under the little rubber plug). Don't forget to remove the fuel screw at the front of each carb and check to be sure it's ok.

To do it right, you'll want a cyclerings kit to replace the various o-rings on the drain plug, fuel tubes, choke pulls, vent tubes, and float seats. You might also need new rubber plugs, possibly float bowl gaskets, and even float needles. All jets and the choke mechanism on each carb will need to be removed for cleaning (o-rings will be wrecked by the carb cleaner). You should also remove the tops and inspect the rubber diaphragms and make sure the needles are clean too (no need to remove the needles to do this). Be sure that each jet is totally clean before you re-install it.

[Johnson]

I have access to a parts cleaner and solution that I plan to use in the process. Are there any kits available with all the parts that I may need? Where can I buy one?

I'm contemplating hiring someone else to clean the carbs for me!

Thanks for all the help!

[Flyboy]

You can do it yourself, rather use the money for better things.
Here is a link to Nessism's excellent tutorial, just follow it and you can't go wrong.
Carb Tutorial

Don't waste your money on fancy carb rebuild kits, all you need are a set of new O-Rings, which you can get from Robert Barr, here on the forum for very little money, he has kindly put all the O-Rings you need together in a neat little package.
Cycle Orings
The actual work will not take you more than a day to strip and reassemble , but the carbs need to be dipped in Berrymans carb cleaner for at least 24 hours.

[cowboyup3371]

Another vote for not wasting your money on the rebuild kits. YOU DON'T NEED THEM

[Redneck]

I have access to a parts cleaner and solution that I plan to use in the process. Are there any kits available with all the parts that I may need? Where can I buy one?

I'm contemplating hiring someone else to clean the carbs for me!

Thanks for all the help!

Without trying to sound like an ass, stop take a day and read through bikecliff's site. Especially the tutorials, and then read through the Carb section, here on the site. This will give you all the knowledge and confidence to move forward. Prefice action with knowledge for success.

Then you will just need to order the bowl gaskets from Z1 Enterprises, and the O-rings from MrCycle... both links are included in Bikecliff's megawelcome.

As far as the dip, if your in the US. BTW post up where you are from on your signature. You can get a can of carb dip from NAPA. Then all you do is take the carbs apart, make sure to label each carb and its position, trust me its crucial to put them back together in the right order. Don't let impatience rule you. Doing it right the first time will take about two days including dip ( most of the time is spent waiting the specified time for the carbs to soak in the dip). After that it is simply follow the rebuild guide ( which I printed out to make things easier) and the rebuild will take about 3-4 hours if you take your time and follow the instructions. Good luck and remember don't get in a hurry, these machines are over 30 years old but they are just about bullet proof if you take the time and do things right. Good luck.

Paul

[D-Mac]

Without trying to sound like an ass, stop take a day and read through bikecliff's site. Especially the tutorials, and then read through the Carb section, here on the site. This will give you all the knowledge and confidence to move forward. Prefice action with knowledge for success.

Then you will just need to order the bowl gaskets from Z1 Enterprises, and the O-rings from MrCycle... both links are included in Bikecliff's megawelcome.

As far as the dip, if your in the US. BTW post up where you are from on your signature. You can get a can of carb dip from NAPA. Then all you do is take the carbs apart, make sure to label each carb and its position, trust me its crucial to put them back together in the right order. Don't let impatience rule you. Doing it right the first time will take about two days including dip ( most of the time is spent waiting the specified time for the carbs to soak in the dip). After that it is simply follow the rebuild guide ( which I printed out to make things easier) and the rebuild will take about 3-4 hours if you take your time and follow the instructions. Good luck and remember don't get in a hurry, these machines are over 30 years old but they are just about bullet proof if you take the time and do things right. Good luck.

Paul

I've never dipped carbs for more than 30 minutes (the can suggests 15-30min as I recall). They always seem to come out very clean that way. I then rinse them off in very hot water and immediately blow compressed air through them. I finish by spraying cleaner through all of the passages just to be safe.

Leaving them in the dip too long seems to just dull the bodies and I hear it can hurt the unremovable hard plastic bits on some models.

[cowboyup3371]

You need to dip them for 24 hours to do it right. And, if you strip them and remove all the parts you are supposed to, nothing will get hurt. You don't put anything plastic or rubber in the dip, only the bodies and metal bits like the jets.

Not dipping them for that long on a set of carbs that have not been properly maintained only invites more trouble later.

[Johnson]

I went to NAPA today and 1 gallon of carb dip was $53! This weekend I'll tear it apart to see how bad the carbs are before spending that much.

I cleaned up the engine and chrome parts today and it looks nice and shiny now. I took the finest steel wool available (0000) and scrubbed away some of that rust and gunk. Worked great and it didn't scratch anything up! I took some simple green and then sprayed it off to get rid of anything like the steel wool particles.

I'm sure once I get those carbs cleaned, it'll start right up! I can't wait to get on the road!

[D-Mac]

I went to NAPA today and 1 gallon of carb dip was $53! This weekend I'll tear it apart to see how bad the carbs are before spending that much.

I cleaned up the engine and chrome parts today and it looks nice and shiny now. I took the finest steel wool available (0000) and scrubbed away some of that rust and gunk. Worked great and it didn't scratch anything up! I took some simple green and then sprayed it off to get rid of anything like the steel wool particles.

I'm sure once I get those carbs cleaned, it'll start right up! I can't wait to get on the road!

$53!? Autozone has Berryman's dip for about $18 a gallon.

[Johnson]

$53!? Autozone has Berryman's dip for about $18 a gallon.

Maybe I read the sticker wrong, but I swear I thought it read $53. Maybe I'll check again tomorrow.