suzuki 750gs custom build

[wcrase]

Now many don't like to hear about someone chopping one of these bad boys up, but I am only doing a few small mods that include a tiny bit of chopping, making my own exhaust(not necessarily a loud exhaust), seat, and lowering the ride height in the rear, looking to raise the front a little also, nothing to extreme, just enough. feel free to comment and I still need a little help with the tuning here a there. all kinds of help and suggestions are welcome.

[wcrase]

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.357553030963104.102893.100001252291930&type=3&l=56ada7887a

this link should get you to the bike as I got it.

[wcrase]

there are a few things I need to work on, one the bike is really cold blooded,
2nd, I put a different air cleaner on it and I can tell it's a little lean, need a easy way to bring her back up where she needs to be. the exhaust right now is just an experiment, I will be trying to bend my own pipes and will be adding baffles to them.( won't be destroying the original pipe) I'm really tall so I will be converting the seat to a single seater. want to add a rear steel fender that will mount with the swing arm, not the chassis,and a sissy bar for looks.
the tail light has been broke and glued back together, will probably be changing it. will be looking at a way to drop the ride height in the rear, looking for a shock that will do that and still work very nicely. down the lone I will try and make my own handle bars, something a little taller like me.

[cowboyup3371]

Have you done everything in the maintenance lists you need to do like the carb rebuild, valve adjustment, etc first? What size jets do you have?

Once again, it's not that we don't like chops/bobs/etc when they are done smartly. It's those who totally ignore the required and safety-related maintenance first that cause us grief.

[wcrase]

Have you done everything in the maintenance lists you need to do like the carb rebuild, valve adjustment, etc first? What size jets do you have?

Once again, it's not that we don't like chops/bobs/etc when they are done smartly. It's those who totally ignore the required and safety-related maintenance first that cause us grief.

I believe right now they are stock , didn't see anything that would make me believe they are after market.I kinda was in a hurry when cleaned the jets, didn't really see anything on them, might have to take another look at them. I just made sure the jets were clean and not plugged and the needles move freely. I'am trying to mod what I can without completly chopping it up, like to be able to return as close to stock if need to. have not done the valve adjustment, will have to get another top end gasket before I get to that. are those shims even available?????

[cowboyup3371]

You really want to take those carbs back apart and dip them properly (24 hours each) according to Nessism's carb build procedures. You need to do this to really clean eveything especially the little passages you cannot see. While you are doing that, go through the valve adjustment procedures outlined on Basscliff's site and email Steve (username and real name) for his spreadsheet. You can either get new shims from places like Z1 or your local shop (get the 29.5mm) for a small fee or just look up the Shim Club under GS Services and get them for an even smaller fee (typically postage).

Once you are done dipping, take a magnifying glass and look at the numbers on the jets. Then compare them with what's listed on Basscliff's site for stock.

Finally, put everything back together (get new screws) with new orings from www.cycleorings.com, replace at least the orings behind your intake boots if you haven't already, and then synch everything.

Note: I mention Nessism's procedures because I assume you have CV carbs (after 1980). If your bike is older, the procedures will be different because you'll have VM carbs. Consequently, put your bike info in your signature block so we don't have to ask and you won't have to remember to tell us.

[wcrase]

You really want to take those carbs back apart and dip them properly (24 hours each) according to Nessism's carb build procedures. You need to do this to really clean eveything especially the little passages you cannot see. While you are doing that, go through the valve adjustment procedures outlined on Basscliff's site and email Steve (username and real name) for his spreadsheet. You can either get new shims from places like Z1 or your local shop (get the 29.5mm) for a small fee or just look up the Shim Club under GS Services and get them for an even smaller fee (typically postage).

Once you are done dipping, take a magnifying glass and look at the numbers on the jets. Then compare them with what's listed on Basscliff's site for stock.

Finally, put everything back together (get new screws) with new orings from www.cycleorings.com, replace at least the orings behind your intake boots if you haven't already, and then synch everything.

Note: I mention Nessism's procedures because I assume you have CV carbs (after 1980). If your bike is older, the procedures will be different because you'll have VM carbs. Consequently, put your bike info in your signature block so we don't have to ask and you won't have to remember to tell us.

thanks for the help and tips, I appreicate it very much, will definitly look into those sites and dipping the carb,yeah I got the VM carbs, syncin' them is something I've never done, I downloaded a manual for the bike a little while back. been studying it. I'm a lil worried about doing the points or even checking them. think they are fine, should I really do the valves, I don't really here any chatter from them. ( the bike is quiter right now, stock exhaust back on for a while). the top end came back a lil. which is weird to me figure since there is an exhaust valve it wouldn't need any back pressure. but it brought it back even with the air cleaner on still, I guessing one or the other was ok, but both definitely over did it a lil.

when I cleaned them just used brake cleaner on the jet and where the needle is and blew out the jet to get the gunk out of them. will have to dip them and see what I get. might get to do that here sunday. once again thanks for your help and advice.

[MisterCinders]

Your valves tighten with wear, so you won't hear them needing adjustment. Quite the opposite, valves on the loose end sometime clatter a bit, which can be comforting, since you know they aren't tight.

Also, don't use brake cleaner on your carbs. Dunno why, but even though brake cleaner and carb cleaner seem pretty similar (acetone smells, etc.), brake cleaner can leave a residue that makes things a little sticky, like throttle slides. AMHIK.

[Big T]

Okay, you ask us no9t to hate you for wanting to chop up your bike, then you start down the road of cutting it up before you even try to get it running properly. That's what ****es off most of the people here

Did you get your Megawelcome?
Did you read thru the top 10 Newbie mistakes?

You need to start with all of the maintenance - carb clean, O rings, valve adjust, carb sync if you want to have a prayer of ever riding this thing

Also, there are 3 generations of the GS 750 and a number of models. Putting your year and model in your signature will aid forum members in providing guidance.

Since you've mentioned VM carbs and points, I'll throw in my .02. If you don't know how old the points are, replace the points and condensors now. Condensors go bad with age and points can often be filed down too much. This results in crappy/no running. Better yet, just slap a Dyna S on it and forget about points.

[cowboyup3371]

As far as checking the valves, just have one question for you - how long do you want your bike to run?

Tight valves can lead to very very costly repairs to your engine from something possibly breakingon you. The job is real simple, takes no more than two hours to do depending on how well you scrape off the old gasket (don't go too hard or you'll gouge the aluminum) and if/how long you have to wait for shims.

[wcrase]

the bikes does run good, just a little cold blooded and a lil lean, just fixed that a lil,(stock exhaust back on) I know it dosn't sound right to mod and tune at the same time, but I trying to muti task, lol. what is this dyna s you were talking about, very curious. I didn't realize the valves worked like that, thought it would be the other way around, thank for the heads up.

thanks every one for your input!!!

[wcrase]

An issue did just pop up today, gotta go thur the wiring, twice today it shut off all power, wiggled some wires and she came back to life. ignition an all electronics died. both times when I was coming up to a stop.

[Steel Toed Tank]

Mine did that the first couple times I took it for a spin. EVERYTHING died, main fuse was GOOD, I figured out it was the main powerline going into the fusebox. It had come loose but still looked like it's supposed to. I got it back together and no issues since.

Where on the bike did you wiggle the wires?
By the ignition switch? back of the headlight? under the left side panel?


Tank

[wcrase]

Mine did that the first couple times I took it for a spin. EVERYTHING died, main fuse was GOOD, I figured out it was the main powerline going into the fusebox. It had come loose but still looked like it's supposed to. I got it back together and no issues since.

Where on the bike did you wiggle the wires?
By the ignition switch? back of the headlight? under the left side panel?


Tank

both areas, I'll be looking at it here tonight just got out of work will check that first, I was in traffic (great timing at a stop light) so I wiggled the main harness along the ignition, then after no results messed with the wires under the left side cover, around the voltage regulator or C.I. which ever it was. and by the fuse. anything I thought would affect all power.
she came back to me though, I braved it out and took her to work,figuring if it happened again, at least I could get a better ideal whats going on and what go her going again. thanks for the tip will definitely check that first.

now a couple more questions. I am sure I already know the answer to this one but will ask anyway. my shocks have no resistance during compression only rebound, so I'm thinkin they are shot.

I was also reading on a thread were guys where moving the stator R/R wire to the fuse box.from the headlight area? has anyone else done this, I'm asuming I'm looking for a red on red wire????(R/R) will be invesigating weather it's already been done or needs to be done. will read up on it again to get the info on the best place to relocate it to.

[wcrase]

well month or so and no mystery electrical problems, installed pod filters, recleaned the carbs, and installed 110 main jets, she's a screamer right now, still alittle cold blooded, but she is faster then she's ever been, almost pulls as hard as my 900!! cleaned the petcock, carbs are good, will be looking at the valve clearances here soon, cleaned all electrical connections, and also fixed the neutral light and gear display,(messed up wires) solo seat is here, still waiting for a few more parts DOM tubes and a side mount brake light/plate, and looking for a good cheap welder. more updates to come and will have pics here soon on the link posted earlier. ( since this web site won't upload my pics)lol. soon the real work will begin. well the fun work. might have to wait till riding season is over, having to much fun ridin this bad girl

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.357553030963104.102893.100001252291930&type=3&l=56ada7887a