1982 GS300 Project - Where do I start

[hjacobmiller]

Refresh my memory... have you done your valve clearances yet?

Yeah. I've checked them twice. When I was having the issues with the ignition and diagnosing that I checked to make sure my timing was good and while I was in there I checked the clearances for good measure.

Update: Pete - do you have any suggestions for setting the timing on the Dynatek correctly? I have read over the static timing instructions a few times and I'm a little confused. How do I turn the engine and hold the rotor at the same time? Not a lot of room in there. I figured I might as well check this.

I also am thinking of ordering some exhaust gaskets. I don't think that is related, but they probably aren't in good shape. Definitely need to get a carb sync set screw as well. Turning it with needle nose is a terrible pain.

[pete]

Cool, couldn't remember if you'd checked them or not.

Given you've been riding already, don't bother with the static timing and instead get a timing light on there.

You need to make sure at idle it lines up with the F line (I think) and at something like 3500 RPM it's at full advance.

From memory, only the right side of the mechanism on mine has an F mark, but both have an advance mark, and you need to check both sides.

Half asleep drinking coffee here so I hope that made sense...

If it's wrong that will have a big impact.

[hjacobmiller]

Cool, couldn't remember if you'd checked them or not.

Given you've been riding already, don't bother with the static timing and instead get a timing light on there.

You need to make sure at idle it lines up with the F line (I think) and at something like 3500 RPM it's at full advance.

From memory, only the right side of the mechanism on mine has an F mark, but both have an advance mark, and you need to check both sides.

Half asleep drinking coffee here so I hope that made sense...

If it's wrong that will have a big impact.

I have no idea what a timing light is or how to use one. I'm going to do the static timing for now and see how that goes.

It could be something as simple as there was a leak in one of my vacuum gauge hoses. I didn't realize there were supposed to be restrictors in the lines and I noticed that there was a split in one of the ends.

Any tricks for getting it warmed up without having to take it for a ride? I don't really want to have to put everthing back on to just take it off ten minutes later, but if I have to I guess I have to.

What are the signs of a burnt valve? I'm really worried about it being that.

[razor02097]

Timing light....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YTb6JGCXH0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

To check for a burnt valve hold a dollar bill to the exhaust and see if the engine sucks it to the exhaust.

[hjacobmiller]

Timing light....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YTb6JGCXH0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

To check for a burnt valve hold a dollar bill to the exhaust and see if the engine sucks it to the exhaust.

I'm guessing thats a joke?

[razor02097]

Nope. The burnt valve actually causes the cylinder to suck air through the exhaust. You can use a rag if you want.

[hjacobmiller]

Nope. The burnt valve actually causes the cylinder to suck air through the exhaust. You can use a rag if you want.

OK I thought you were pulling my leg for a second there. Like the guy at autozone that told me all I needed to replace a clutch was a new clutch and "mechanic in a can." I was sixteen and didn't know any better ha ha.

I'll try that tomorrow morning. Thanks man.

[pete]

Nope. The burnt valve actually causes the cylinder to suck air through the exhaust. You can use a rag if you want.

I had no idea on that also... good to know!

[razor02097]

Hopefully the trick works on the smaller engines. I've actually never tried it on a small twin nor have I tried the trick with a dual exhaust. You might have to block one pipe or something the cross over tube on the bottom of the bike should provide sufficient flow for idle.

You want to watch the paper, dollar, rag to see the "puff" "puff" action. If it blows outward on each puff then you are good to go. If it sucks in it might indicate you have an exhaust cam timing issue or burnt up valve....although it could also indicate several other issues.

[hjacobmiller]

Well, not going to be able to check the $ trick today.

I tried to do the static timing but I can't seem to figure out how to hold the rotor in the full advance position and turn the engine.

Any tips Pete?

Well, while I was trying to figure that out, I just happened to notice that the exhaust manifold connector (don't know what it is called) on the right side wasn't seated flush. So I started to look into that.

Are these supposed to fit over the ring on the header?



I also discovered that my exhaust gaskets were practically non-existent.





Should I be concerned with the color of those valve stems?

I ordered new exhaust gaskets as well as a new sync adjustment screw. Should be here next week

[razor02097]

The exhaust gaskets are on there believe it or not The copper gaskets squish almost paper thin when you install them. Funny story when I worked for a bike shop a person brings in their bike or ATV complaining their exhaust header leaks even though they replaced the gasket twice... You end up digging out like 3 or 4 gaskets from the years of owners thinking there is no gasket on there

I wouldn't worry too much about getting the collar off. It is likely Suzuki made that one unit with the exhaust pipe. You would have to cut the pipe to get it off.

The white soot on the exhaust valves is normal... I have seen that on countless bike and car exhaust valves... it's the **** modern fuels with all the additives they tell us are good for the engine... they aren't.

[hjacobmiller]

OK well I ordered new ones just in case. I'll try later tonight to see if I can pull the old ones out.

Are the collars supposed to go over the ring on the header though? Because I couldn't get mine over them. It seems like they were out of round or something.

If they just sit on the edge of that ring and then press the header into the gasket then it all is fine. If it supposed to go over it then I may have some issues.

[razor02097]

I don't think they are meant to come off.

[hjacobmiller]

I don't think they are meant to come off.

Yeah, I don't want to try to take them off I just want to make sure they're going far enough up on the header to seat flush with the head and seal that up.

[razor02097]

The collars don't need to be flush to the head, they are just meant to pull the pipe into the head and crush the gasket.