1982 GS300 Project - Where do I start

[Mekanix]

What came out ?

What do the new bearings look like ?

Look at page 213 of the manual, Looks like you got the bearings out and whats left in there is a bushing.

For the terminal: attach the wire and cover with liquid electrical tape.


Your going to need a ground from the coils to the engine. Either run a ground wire from each coil to the engine or burnish the points where the coils make contact with the frame.

[hjacobmiller]

What came out ?

What do the new bearings look like ?

Look at page 213 of the manual, Looks like you got the bearings out and whats left in there is a bushing.

Oh Mechanix, you and your wisdom...

Here is what came out:

[Mekanix]

What do the new bearings look like ?

Was there anything else to the bearings that looked like an outer race?

It looks like the bit still in there are the outer race for the bearings.

This is what I found for a replacement.

http://images.cmsnl.com/img/products/bearingpivot-22x29x30_medium0926322017-01_00c8.jpg

Take a measurement of how far they are set in before you take them out.

[hjacobmiller]

Do the bushings need to come out as well then?

[Mekanix]

Looks like they do. Everything shows that they are a one piece unit.

Its just wierd that you got that outer ring of the bearing out. Its all supposed to be one piece.

[pete]

What you got out looks a bit like mine were when I got them out many years ago... and I had to get a mechanic to heat it up and get the rest of the races out. Mekanix is definitely right, they should all be in one piece. Going by the looks of that it may be best that you're replacing them anyway...

My Dyna coil terminals are exactly as you see them right there, no insulation, and everything is good even in pouring rain. They're well insulated under the tank above the motor there.

Mekanix, why do you say a ground between the coil and engine is required? The + terminal is fed by switched 12v and the Dyna modules turn the coils on/off by the - terminal... my frame is painted where the coils mount and I have no dramas... The stock coils certainly didn't get grounded there either... not sure if I'm just confused or missing something?

[Mekanix]

I was just looking at how the circuit was completed.

Your right Pete, I thought the secondary was completed through the frame but now that I look at it, its actually completed by the same switched ground from the dyna.

[hjacobmiller]

The reason why what came out did like it did is because I just used a 12" piece of black pipe to try and drift them out. It cracked the casing, all the rollers spewed out and the wire tracks were what was left, which I pulled out with needle nose.

I'm guessing that the bushings have moved from their original locations during my said "drifting," but I can take a couple quick measurements just to confirm. Looks like they're both roughly 7mm in (from the surface of the swingarm).

The only thing I'm really worried about with the open terminals under the tank is if there is any sparking/shorting out, it's going to happen under a 4.4 unleaded fuel bomb, right underneath my chest... Should there be any leaks, I don't want to take chances...

So I'm guessing just pry those bushings out and try not to gum up the inner wall of the swing arm in the process?

Going to need a few pointers on regreasing, disassembling rear shocks, and other things.

Thanks so much for the input.

[pete]

All good Mekanix, you just had me worried for a sec there

Jake, you definitely need to get the rest of the bearings out otherwise you won't get the new ones in.

If the 300's like the 450, there'll be a long spacer between the bearings and there'll be dust caps that go between the swingarm and the frame to keep the grease in and try to keep moisture out.

[hjacobmiller]

All good Mekanix, you just had me worried for a sec there

Jake, you definitely need to get the rest of the bearings out otherwise you won't get the new ones in.

If the 300's like the 450, there'll be a long spacer between the bearings and there'll be dust caps that go between the swingarm and the frame to keep the grease in and try to keep moisture out.

Roger. I just wanted to make sure that the "bushing" I was going to take out wasn't actually some seat that needed to be in there. I don't think they are going to come out easily, so I'm guessing they won't be useful after I remove them.

On a side note - I completely forgot what a huge PITA it is waiting for parts. Should've let running bikes run I guess

Pete - what SS engine bolt kit did you get from Z1? I think the 300 will use the same one. I've tried searching through their tree on the left, but it is less than userfriendly...

[pete]

That'd be this one:

http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?itemDescription=Bolt+Set+GS450+ET+ST+EX+SX+EZ+80-82+&item=NGSS-702

That's the first time I've used their new site... ugh... yeah I much prefer the old one...

[Mekanix]

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs300-l-1982-1983-usa_model16008/partslist/91834.html#results

[hjacobmiller]

Thanks guys. You both had to be biting your nails and sighing in exhaustion when I decided I was doing this rebuild. After the whole ignition issue I thought Mechanix had given up hope

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=192223&highlight=swing+arm+bearing

That sounds like what I did.

Twenty minutes, three small screw drivers and a couple bites from hammer:







Minor scratches on the inner swing arm tube. but nothing terrible. Thankfully nothing scratched on the powder coat.

Now if Boulevard would just get me the new ones.....

[pete]

Nice one Jake! Boulevard being a little slow? It seems Ashley's left and I believe she was the main one making things good there... however going by all reports I think they're still ok.

[hjacobmiller]

Nah, they're not being terrible. I'm just impatient.

Got the steering bearings today. A little frustrated with the seller, not mentioning they're might be a potential modification necessary for the Allballs kit.

Doesn't really look like it will be an issue so far, but apparently there may be some machining necessary to lengthen the lip where the top bearing sits.



Also not really sure what to do about the bottom bearing. The outer diameter of the stem is like 1/1000th wider than the inner diameter of the bearing so it won't push down.





Do I just drive it down with a piece of wood or something?

Also need some advice on how to repack the new/old ones depending on whichever work out.