My 85' 1150E - project.

[MAJikMARCer]

Whoa! (like Keanu)

I've bent rims, bent frames, and lesser snake biting the tire/tube on mountain bikes before and they were bad enough. Doing this to a motorcycle? Dude!

[Slowhand]

Yeah Chit happens . You pick yourself up (if you can) and move on. It took an ambulance to pick me up that day, but I moved on, to a Harley as my main ride eventually. Theres only two wheels on these, if you ride aggressive and something goes wrong, you get hurt. And the bike gets hurt too ! Hell, you can be driving the speed limit and some jacka$$ pulls out in front of you, cuts you off, whatever. I've had many friends, as i'm sure many of you have too, that were just driving along and some moron plowed into them or pulled my favorite one, a left turn across your bow. I can't even count the near misses I've had over the years. It happens, what ya gonna do ?

This bike, for all intense and purpose, was totaled (money wise) when I crashed it in 95'. Buying new parts was out of the question, $$$. I did look into salvage yards a few years later but even they wanted a fortune for parts. And remember, ebay just came out in 95' and the only things for sale on it were nick knacks being sold by little old ladies. The internet was a baby back then. But now... "you can't always get what you want, but if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need" ... my apologies to The Stones.

And the saga continues..........

My side panels have all the mounting posts but one, however they are cracked, either from the crash or the from the tow truck guy. When I had it brought back to my house he had straps wrapped around the whole bike to hoist it. I have a feeling thats what cracked them. But that doesn't matter now except that is a shame because the paint and shine on them is still new like. The cracks go right through the paint so there is no way to hide them. So I just did a temp Gorilla glue on them and some duct tape on the inside just to hold and stop them from getting any bigger on the first test rides.

If anyone can suggest a fiberglass fix it product that I can just put on the inside to permanently seal them it would be appreciated ! My red and black paint scheme was only on the 85's , so finding ones in great shape has not been easy. I can actually live with the cracks as long as I can stop them from growing.

[chef1366]

Holy sh!t!

[6pkrunner]

A crying shame - but you're okay and as you said eBay is your friend.

[rich001]

Hi slowie,

My side covers have similar issues for dissimilar reasons and I ''pricked my ears'' when it was talked about elsewhere, how Lego may come to the rescue. Apparently Lego is the same plastic and when melted in acetone will fix cracks, mend mounting lugs, etc etc.

Let's hope someone who has actual experience can chime in and enlighten you ( & me ) regarding the details of this procedure.

Yours in cracked covers
Richard

[SVSooke]

Acetone run into those cracks will melt the plastic back into 1 piece.Done it on a few side covers.If bits are missing a ABS slurry makes a great filler.

[Slowhand]

Well I'll be darned ! I'll check my local hardware store and Home Depot for that abs slurry. If I can't find it anywhere I'll just buy some acetone and steal some of my sons old legos ! I only need it to coat the inside of the panels. Thanks for the idea and tip guys !!

Lego repair...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/solo_ko...7624834584688/

[Slowhand]

The second problem I've ran into so far, and I can't really call that stuck M/C piston and this a problem, more like an annoyances that needed to be remedied. Was that my seat locking setup wouldn't work, the key turned but didn't pull on the cable. I had to pop the side panel and manually pull the cable. Not a big deal in itself but my panels have crackes in them and the less I have to take them off and back on the better. I opened up the lock and found that there is a metal post on the lock mechanism that turns the plastic hood that in turn pulls on the cable. It had broken off. I found one on ebay, 140 something dollars, I think not ! So I drilled a hole where the post was down into the lock then put in a self threading screw that I had ground the head down to as close to the width of the screw itself. It's in tight and it works, greased the hell out of it and put it back on the bike. Have no idea how long it will last, I'll just keep my eye open for another one and pick it up down the road.




Screw in tight.

[trevor]

Must be an 1150 flaw as my seat lock is broke too. I have been looking for one. Right now it's "manual".

[Slowhand]

Hey Trevor, yeah I bet it is ! The little post that was in there wasn't all that big and I guess they snap off quite easily. The screw I put in is in tight and seems like it would last a long time. We shall see. I did the 'Rube" job because of the price I saw for a new one. No way in hell would I spend that much money on this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320952381915...8#ht_500wt_969


And I didn't buy this one because it actually looks worse than mine. Hopefully my screw will hold.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Suzuki-...#ht_1118wt_952

[SVSooke]

Well I'll be darned ! I'll check my local hardware store and Home Depot for that abs slurry. If I can't find it anywhere I'll just buy some acetone and steal some of my sons old legos ! I only need it to coat the inside of the panels. Thanks for the idea and tip guys !!

Lego repair...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/solo_ko...7624834584688/

Have to make the slurry yourself.Easy to do.I use a old leftover side cover myself.

[Slowhand]

Thanks SV, I will look into purchasing it in the next few weeks.

On to the ass end of the bike. I put it back together, pretty straight forward. Just bolted and torqued everything back up. I did soak my chain in mineral spirits for a couple of days to get all the old oil and chain lube off it, then blew all that off with the air hose and washed it, then blew it all dry again then soaked it once more in Valvoline 20-50 racing oil for a day. Let it hang for a couple of days and again blew the excess oil off it. The chain is still good though, not stretched at all, I imagine the o-rings in it have seen better days. I will replace it soon.
I reused the rear brake line too, I hung it up and ran fluid and a small wire rod through it over a few days. I know I will have to buy new front and rear lines down the road but they work fine for now. The bleeding went just like the front ones, it had to sit a day for the piston to get fully out past the new o-rings. It's tight and firm now too with no leaks.









It's Gettin' There !!!!!!!

[trevor]

Hey Slowhand, I found one from a guy in Calgary that I also got the tailpiece from. He has at least one parts bike maybe two, let me know if you would like his info if there is something you need that he might have. I paid $20 for this but has no key so I will have to get one made.
Will have to clean it up too..

[Slowhand]

Hey Trevor, nice find and only $20, you can't beat that. If you can, shoot me the guys info in a private message, there aren't many 1150's out there anymore. We need all the sources for parts we can get !

Next for me was mounting the new/old exhaust. I first did a test mounting of 2&3, trying to figure out how to hold the half moons and the new gaskets in place as I don't have 8 arms !! I ended up using two small strips of blue painters masking tape to hold the half moons. Then a couple of drops of Gorilla glue on the pipes to hold the gaskets. Worked like a charm, I figure the tape will burn off or just dissipate somehow.



Took 2&3 back off, I didn't tighten them fully, then I mounted #'s 1 and 4.



And.....2&3 back in again. Tried to get them all lined up right and tighten everything in place. Started her up to check for any leaks but found none.

[6pkrunner]

God that looks nice.