1982 GS650G project

[GS650E_81]

Coming along, nice work thus far.

Are those clubman handlebar's? If so, how do they feel?

[Bonehead]

Coming along, nice work thus far.

Are those clubman handlebar's? If so, how do they feel?

I haven't actually ridden it yet so I can't give a definitive answer. But from me just sitting on it for mock ups, they feel awesome. Much better than the stock bars for me. Plus, once I get a set of rearsets, the posture will be perfect for me. If I have some extra money at the end, I may get some clip-ons. But, who knows

[Bonehead]

Update: Fixed some of the faulty wiring that was held together by crimps. Also soldered up the W/B wire from the R/R seeing as how I thought that was just a little important. Took out the clutch safety switch loop (now I can remove those wires as well so it will look cleaner). I tried to get the dents off the tank with the HFT bar to no avail. They are pretty big and quite deep so I understand why. Time to find a small piece of rebar!!

I also realized my clutch cable was extremely tight (it is a damn hard pull, even for me. It requires my whole hand). Took a look at it, and decided to just get a new one seeing as how it should probably be replaced anyways (might still be the original to be honest). So I'll see if that helps. I'm also getting some brake pads as well as a replacement clutch lever if I need to. I will take the clutch lever off and see if I can clean and polish it well enough, wire wheel here I come!

Wiring question: Can I leave most of the ground terminals on the battery negative? I have one frame and one engine ground, but I just want to see if my kill switch/starter work. Would I ruin anything if I tried? I think its 3 or 4 ring terminals I have hanging but I could be wrong.

[Bonehead]

Update: Intake boots are on, and now it is on to the wiring harness. I will post some pictures/ questions I have about them since I had the wiring diagram with me and I was still stumped.

Things to do to get it running/ test:
- Make an aux. fuel tank
- sort the wiring harness
- spark plugs
- exhaust gaskets
- re-mount exhaust
- replace brake pads
- replace clutch cable
- get the dents out of the tank
- find a new seat/seatpan

[Bonehead]

Update:

BRAKES
I was going to just replace the brake pads, but I took a look at the calipers/pads and they had so much crap in the body of the caliper it was disgusting. I have decided to do a full rebuild for all the calipers since I took a look at one of them. Better to do it now, rather than have a troubled time doing it half-assed. Might also go with SS lines, but I may not have enough cash.

WIRING
Put the battery on for a few minutes to check if my killswitch worked. Well, after it didn't I checked voltages at the coils/killswitch and they were 0.00 even when I jumped the solenoid. So, figuring this was a problem I will be tracing the wiring in the harness. I also think that my ignitor may be at fault. But, it was a drained battery going for max 10V across the posts. This is my electrical post in the forum if you want to see what's up

CLUTCH CABLE
Replaced, but feels the same. So, it may just be a hard clutch. Oh well, the cale still looked rusted and old and probably needed to be replaced regardless.

[eil]

BRAKES
I was going to just replace the brake pads, but I took a look at the calipers/pads and they had so much crap in the body of the caliper it was disgusting. I have decided to do a full rebuild for all the calipers since I took a look at one of them. Better to do it now, rather than have a troubled time doing it half-assed. Might also go with SS lines, but I may not have enough cash.

Good decision on rebuilding the calipers. On a used bike, I would never trust a set of brakes that haven't been rebuilt by myself or someone I know to be competent.

You can save almost 50% on the price of SS brake lines if you build them yourself following the instructions on BassCliff's site and threads around here. I haven't done it yet (waiting on parts), but lots of people say it's pretty easy and based on what you've done so far, I think it would be well within your grasp. But if you decide to go rubber, only get brand-new lines since they have a limited life span.

CLUTCH CABLE
Replaced, but feels the same. So, it may just be a hard clutch. Oh well, the cale still looked rusted and old and probably needed to be replaced regardless.

Good to replace if it looked dodgy. A broken clutch cable out on the road is no fun. Maybe PO put some stronger aftermarket springs in the clutch? I've read that the OEM ones give the best feel and won't slip until they get really old and loose their springiness.

[Bonehead]

Good decision on rebuilding the calipers. On a used bike, I would never trust a set of brakes that haven't been rebuilt by myself or someone I know to be competent.

You can save almost 50% on the price of SS brake lines if you build them yourself following the instructions on BassCliff's site and threads around here. I haven't done it yet (waiting on parts), but lots of people say it's pretty easy and based on what you've done so far, I think it would be well within your grasp. But if you decide to go rubber, only get brand-new lines since they have a limited life span.

Good to replace if it looked dodgy. A broken clutch cable out on the road is no fun. Maybe PO put some stronger aftermarket springs in the clutch? I've read that the OEM ones give the best feel and won't slip until they get really old and loose their springiness.

True. With the clutch, I will investigate on the springs and go through the plates as well when I get in there. I need to remember a few things though since I wanted to drain oil only when I need to.

With the brakes, I agree. I took a single look at the front right caliper and thought there is no WAY I trust these brakes to sto

[Bonehead]

Good decision on rebuilding the calipers. On a used bike, I would never trust a set of brakes that haven't been rebuilt by myself or someone I know to be competent.

You can save almost 50% on the price of SS brake lines if you build them yourself following the instructions on BassCliff's site and threads around here. I haven't done it yet (waiting on parts), but lots of people say it's pretty easy and based on what you've done so far, I think it would be well within your grasp. But if you decide to go rubber, only get brand-new lines since they have a limited life span.

Good to replace if it looked dodgy. A broken clutch cable out on the road is no fun. Maybe PO put some stronger aftermarket springs in the clutch? I've read that the OEM ones give the best feel and won't slip until they get really old and loose their springiness.

True. With the clutch, I will investigate on the springs and go through the plates as well when I get in there. I need to remember a few things though since I wanted to drain oil only when I need to.

With the brakes, I agree. I took a single look at the front right caliper and thought there is no WAY I trust these brakes to stop me anymore so better to be safe

[T8erbug]

Seat, tank, fender mockup


It looks amazing just like this! Just figure out a way to refine it a bit. A cut here a blend there and whammy! Keep the frame black. If you paint the frame to match the body work it will make the bike look bulky and strange because the tank and tails' lines will blend with the off angles of the frame (contradictory/vertical+horizontal lines=unpleasant to the eye). Plus that paint scheme is pretty sweet. Just my two cents. Sweet bike/project!

[Bonehead]

Seat, tank, fender mockup


It looks amazing just like this! Just figure out a way to refine it a bit. A cut here a blend there and whammy! Keep the frame black. If you paint the frame to match the body work it will make the bike look bulky and strange because the tank and tails' lines will blend with the off angles of the frame (contradictory/vertical+horizontal lines=unpleasant to the eye). Plus that paint scheme is pretty sweet. Just my two cents. Sweet bike/project!

I was leaning towards the black frame anyways Maybe even a dark grey possibly... huh that'd look cool. I'd definitely need some help if I wanted to paint the tank, tail, etc the same... Or just give it to someone haha.

I may try to cut the frame at the rear if I cannot find a good seatpan, but I want one so I can ride double up if I need to. Also, don't REALLY want to chop the frame if I do not have to.

[Bonehead]

SHHEEEEE BREAATTHHHEEEESSSS!!!! This really made my day. I feel so much better about this bike you have no idea. On the very first crank (which I did not record) it scared the crap out of me. I had no idea how strong it would crank over... and it sounded strong to me. Praise be the Suzuki gods and goddesses!

On the other hand, I figured out my RH kill/starter button did not work so I removed it and will be reworking it and see what I did wrong.

This also makes me want to work on it even harder... And spend even more

[Bonehead]

NEWS!

-Got a seat from an 81 650Gx (same seat as my Gz)
-Hooked up a new solenoid, and the RH switch WORKS!!! thank god

Here's a little mockup

[Bonehead]

Update: Got the APE SuperPro pods! I must say, they look the exact same quality as K&N to me. Man, I cannot WAIT to hear this monster gurgle into life through that Yoshi pipe and pods... I am so close I can taste it.

On my way to getting more parts from my tax refund and tools like:

-making an AUX fuel tank
-vacuum sink gauges
-DynoJet Stage III
-Shinko 712 (or 230, haven't decided)
-A helicoil kit
-Caliper rebuild (seals, gaskets, etc possibly piston)
-Fluids
-And possibly gear (Boots, helmet, and probably pants as well)

[gsrick]

Hey Bonehead, do the APE superpods fit? Our Ghost in the Machine, says K & N outside pods hit the frame on his 650. What about yours?

I like the mini cooley look.

[Bonehead]

Hey Bonehead, do the APE superpods fit? Our Ghost in the Machine, says K & N outside pods hit the frame on his 650. What about yours?

I like the mini cooley look.

Haha thanks :

Well, after I read this I kind of freaked so I got in my car and drove over to my bike to check and my verdict... Is that they fit like they were MADE for the 650. Even with the plastic on, they fit perfectly.

Man, they look pretty bitchin to boot! Definitely recommend these for anyone who doesn't have the stock airbox on their 650, AND DOESN'T WANT ONE!!

For your reference here's a couple pics: