'85 GS700e restoration

[GateKeeper]

I think they look pretty clean.

They might look clean, but you really need to take them apart, dip them, clean them properly, change all the O rings (www.cycleorings.com) and then you will know they are good to go....

visually looking at them, they way there are now, really doesn't tell you anything....

[SVSooke]

They might look clean, but you really need to take them apart, dip them, clean them properly, change all the O rings (www.cycleorings.com) and then you will know they are good to go....

visually looking at them, they way there are now, really doesn't tell you anything....

GK`s right,take off the float bowlsand have a look there.Even if they look OK ět`s best to dip and replace the o ring with a set from Mr Barr.Yeller was running quite nicely before I replaced the old o rings.With the new ones she`s outstanding.
I wouldn't worry to much about getting a specific brand of penetrating oil.I've tried a Canadian brand Lloyds and PB Blaster.Going back to Lloyds when the PB`s gone.

[soundsource]

Here is something you might find useful if you do the frame. http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BL...oductinfo/CHG/ I think Nessism has used it a had good things to say about it. They have a line of products that are cheap to use and yield great results, especially the tank liner. If the spring is toast I have one I could send you for shipping. I have the whole shock but that would be costly to ship. The linkage I can't help you with but the '83 and up 750E is the same so if that's toast it will make one easier to find. It looks like the battery puked some acid down on the suspension. I'd pull the swingarm and all the shock linkages and check the bearings.

Hello again Billy, thanks for the update and crucial information. Now you mention it, it does look suspiciously like the battery spewed onto the shock - well spotted and thank you! How do I tell if the shock is dead? I definitely planned on pulling the swing arm and suspension, if only to sand, clean and paint so when it's off what can I do to make sure it's all in working order? Thanks for the offer of the shock, obviously if the current one is dead I'll check back with you...

Also, would it be possible to spray the frame well without pulling the engine and forks off? I'm trying to limit budget and time off the road so any avoidable major jobs I can get away with I will try. Maybe holding card or paper behind the frame as I spray? I really have no idea (you probably knew that already!). I'll try and find a UK supplier for the Chassis Coat spray paint in the meantime...

[Billy Ricks]

There is a UK supplier for POR 15 products. If you don't see where any oil has leaked from the shock it's probably okay as far as damping. I offered the spring because in one of your earlier posts it looked like the acid had eaten away at the spring. It seems to have cleaned up pretty nicely though. Pulling the fork and dropping the engine seems like a lot of work but it's not really. If you can't find the online service manual for the 700 I can copy the pages for fork and shock removal for you and email them. You can have them off both ends in half a day if you are industrious, and you seem to be. The engine can be done by one person. I haven't had the need to but most people get the engine unbolted but leave the bolts in the motor mounts. Then they lay the bike on its side to pull the frame off of the engine. Just a few plugs to take care of and a few other odd wires to unfasten. You would probably have to pull the valve cover too. It would be a good time to check clearances anyway.

I'm good at making work for you huh?

[soundsource]

They might look clean, but you really need to take them apart, dip them, clean them properly, change all the O rings (www.cycleorings.com) and then you will know they are good to go....

visually looking at them, they way there are now, really doesn't tell you anything....

Ok GateKeeper I'm sold! Been looking for o-rings and SS allen bolts just this evening! Looks like the cycleorings.com site is the answer to my prayers! Thank you kindly sir for the link... Is there a similar site that offers sets of SS bolts for the covers etc.? Any other gems you're holding out on?

In terms of cleaning the carbs I'm not going to hold back but thanks for the reminder. I've been looking for carb cleaner as well but the price for Gunk here is something like $100 for a 96 Oz can. Is that normal? Thanks again for looking out for me!

[Billy Ricks]

Ok GateKeeper I'm sold! Been looking for o-rings and SS allen bolts just this evening! Looks like the cycleorings.com site is the answer to my prayers! Thank you kindly sir for the link... Is there a similar site that offers sets of SS bolts for the covers etc.? Any other gems you're holding out on?

In terms of cleaning the carbs I'm not going to hold back but thanks for the reminder. I've been looking for carb cleaner as well but the price for Gunk here is something like $100 for a 96 Oz can. Is that normal? Thanks again for looking out for me!

We pay about $20 for a gallon can here. If you're disassembling any way I think lacquer thinner would do a good job of dissolving all the deposits if you soaked with it. Just don't use the stuff indoors and be careful with any rags that get soaked with it.

[soundsource]

There is a UK supplier for POR 15 products. If you don't see where any oil has leaked from the shock it's probably okay as far as damping. I offered the spring because in one of your earlier posts it looked like the acid had eaten away at the spring. It seems to have cleaned up pretty nicely though. Pulling the fork and dropping the engine seems like a lot of work but it's not really. If you can't find the online service manual for the 700 I can copy the pages for fork and shock removal for you and email them. You can have them off both ends in half a day if you are industrious, and you seem to be. The engine can be done by one person. I haven't had the need to but most people get the engine unbolted but leave the bolts in the motor mounts. Then they lay the bike on its side to pull the frame off of the engine. Just a few plugs to take care of and a few other odd wires to unfasten. You would probably have to pull the valve cover too. It would be a good time to check clearances anyway.

I'm good at making work for you huh?

Billy you're way ahead of me! I downloaded the manuals from BassCliff's brilliant website so it shouldn't be a problem. In my heart I know I should pull the engine and forks - I just can't wait to be on the road as I'm without transport and relying on public transport. Though I suppose a few more days isn't going to hurt is it! The thing I fear most is getting stuck or disheartened by taking on too much and not finishing the job.

Valves definitely getting checked. If I pull the engine can I check clearances when it's on the bench?

[soundsource]

Lacquer thinner? I'll see what I can find! Thanks again Billy...

[Billy Ricks]

You can run the clearances on the bench, it will be easier than working around the frame. Somewhere down the road you will want to pull the fork tubes again and replace the oil.

[soundsource]

GK`s right,take off the float bowlsand have a look there.Even if they look OK ět`s best to dip and replace the o ring with a set from Mr Barr.Yeller was running quite nicely before I replaced the old o rings.With the new ones she`s outstanding.
I wouldn't worry to much about getting a specific brand of penetrating oil.I've tried a Canadian brand Lloyds and PB Blaster.Going back to Lloyds when the PB`s gone.

Thanks again SVSooke for your invaluable knowledge sir! The American brands are mostly imported and consequently are too expensive here. What do you think about something like this: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p62311?

[GateKeeper]

Can't tell you where to get the carb dip, or how much it is, your across the pond and this you will need to source out for yourself, same goes for the SS Allen head bolts, I found a local shop here in Canada, that carried almost everything I needed, and some items from the US. You can order some of the ones for the covers over at http://z1enterprises.com/ they have full kits already pre packaged, and probably other items you might need...

[jwhelan65]

You can get carb dip at any auto parts store

[soundsource]

You can run the clearances on the bench, it will be easier than working around the frame. Somewhere down the road you will want to pull the fork tubes again and replace the oil.

That's good news about the valves Billy that should make things easier and based on the fact that I was going to check the valves anyway it seems like another reason to get the engine out and on the bench. Looks like I need to stop putting off the inevitable and strip the frame completely. That's me trying to put a brave face on it! In terms of the forks, just to be clear, are you saying I should pull them and replace the oil and seals now because I'll have to do anyway some time down the road? Thanks again for your advice.

[Billy Ricks]

If the seals don't look like they are weeping leave them alone and just replace the fork oil.

[jwhelan65]

Billy you're way ahead of me! I downloaded the manuals from BassCliff's brilliant website so it shouldn't be a problem. In my heart I know I should pull the engine and forks - I just can't wait to be on the road as I'm without transport and relying on public transport. Though I suppose a few more days isn't going to hurt is it! The thing I fear most is getting stuck or disheartened by taking on too much and not finishing the job.

Valves definitely getting checked. If I pull the engine can I check clearances when it's on the bench?

I have an additional 750 / 700 supplemental service manual for your bike you can have it for the price of shipping if your interested...