Yahweh tribute bike

[Bevo]

Do yourself a favour.. get the details off your welding machine if its AC or DC then go to the welding shop.
Ask for 3/32 7024 rods, these you can leave directly on the metal and it won't stick, see below from Miller Welding.

Q: What Type Of Rod Should I Use For General Work On Steel?

A: Common electrodes used for general work include 6010, 6011, 6013, 7018 and 7024, each of which has specific properties: 6010 electrodes penetrate deeply, while 6013 electrodes penetrate less. For much better bead appearance and work on higher strength steels (say for a hitch), use a 7018 rod. For better penetration on thick material, grind the joint to a 30 degree bevel (leave a nickel-width land on the bottom of the groove) and make multiple passes. Alternatively, make the first pass with a 6010 rod, then make a "cap" with a 7018. The 7024 rod is perhaps the easiest to use. Also known as a "drag rod," this electrode's thick flux automatically maintains the correct arc length, which allows you to drag the rod directly along the work piece.

[wally]

Thanx - I'll see what our local guys have to offer.

My regulator turned out to be fine - which I am not so sure of, but anyhow, I'll give it another bash this weekend.

[wally]

Got my first parts from ebay!

Mini warning lights, as I won't use my standard gauges I needed something to replace them with. Not sure how I am going to mount them...







Still waiting for speedo, tach and mirrors...

[wally]

And some more!

Mini tach arrived yesterday. Only $24 - about 1/2 of what we would pay here.
Looks like nice quality - not flimsy, thin metal.



Still waiting on mini speedo and bar end mirrors to arrive.

Can't wait for the weekend to do some more work!

[pete]

Good stuff Wally! Nice to get some parts in ain't it?

For the idiot lights... a simple sheet of aluminium bolted under the handlebar clamp bolts and cut to go around the ignition switch would do the trick nicely I reckon.

[wally]

Exactly my thought!

Also thought about mounting it between the 2 holes for speedo/rev counter.
Will only really know for sure once I have the speedo, so I can see what it will look like.

Finishing up the bottom seat pan this weekend and doing the top seat pan as well. And have to figure out where to mount R/R, etc.

Not enough space between the 2 seat pans.

[pete]

Well I'm sure you've seen mine, but I made my dash mounting bracket based on the shape of the stock gauge mount, so that's definitely doable.

[wally]

Yip, need to sit down and figure it out.

It was a terrible weekend though. Nothing, NOTHING worked out as planned.

I am sure the gas welder is not functioning correctly, as the oxygen regulator only wants to kick in around 50kpa. I have the right size nozzle for the thickness of plate, but previously I used to weld at around 15kpa. Kept blowing holes...

Didn't even finish up the bottom pan, never mind start on the top pan...

Did however figure out how to mount it and my brother-in-law helped me pull the motor. Now at least I will be able to remove everything and flip the frame around to weld in the hard to reach places.

[hjacobmiller]

Don't know if you're going the clip on route, but look at the second picture in this thread.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=185193

The bolt holes from where he ground down the original handle bar mounts might make an interesting new location for your lights...

Good work. Following along.

[wally]

Thanx! I am going with drag bars pictured, but I see what you mean! It would make a great spot...mmmm...

[wally]

What an awesome day!

Got my bar end mirrors (eventually!):



Made the top seat pan. Seems Mr Cinders and myself had same idea for mounting!

All the welds still have to be finished off, but it all worked out s planned!

[pete]

Nice work Wally, she's coming together well!

One thing I just realised though... top and bottom seat pans? Is that so you have room for electrics between them or what's the go? I've probably missed something obvious...

[wally]

Indeed! Easy way to hide the wires. Too pan will be the actual seat, bottom to house wiring, etc.

[pete]

Cool, I'm not missing anything then

Just don't forget *not* to put the R/R between them... under the bottom pan would be ideal for airflow. My new to me Shindengen I put on a little while back loves it under there...

[wally]

I saw what you did and I am going to follow the same route.