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IIRC there may be a long bolt or two inside the oil pan holding the halves together. You seem on top of things, but just a reminder. (that is if I am even correct on this)
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Great photo of the 650 and 550 side by side. Really helps you see the size difference.1978 GS550 E
673cc swap / the hot rod
2013 GSXR
New daily rider
2012 RMZ450
for playing in the dirtComment
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I think the block/tranny on the 650G is bigger, I can definitely tell you it's at least 15-20 pounds heavier. I picked up the complete 550 engine and put it on the table but I had to get help with the 650. There are some exterior differences on the two heads but I think the difference in block size makes it look larger.
I have all the numbered bolts on the bottom removed, the two bolts on the side with the clutch rod and output shaft removed and the bolts inside the oil pan. Maybe I'm missing something but I swear I've looked it over a few times and it all seems good to go.Originally posted by loud et View PostIIRC there may be a long bolt or two inside the oil pan holding the halves together. You seem on top of things, but just a reminder. (that is if I am even correct on this)
edit: Oh and I got the one random bolt on top near the oil sensor too.Last edited by Guest; 11-12-2012, 01:10 PM.Comment
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btw I have this coming in tomorrow
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The 650 G has a complete driveshaft drive system, that's probably most of the weight difference.Originally posted by Toasty View Post
The valve covers fit each other.
The cylinders do too, the cylinders and heads are the same height. There may be slightly more cooling fins on the 650? Can't tell without measuring. The 550 transmission area is longer as it has space for the kickstart stuff.
Overall just about the same size.Comment
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I guess I should have been more clear. I was refering to the size of the barrels / fins. You can clearly see how much larger you are going.Originally posted by tkent02 View Post1978 GS550 E
673cc swap / the hot rod
2013 GSXR
New daily rider
2012 RMZ450
for playing in the dirtComment
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Man I hate this thing I really do. I had to stop for the night before I just smashed the damn thing open with a sledgehammer. Every bolt is out and I swear it does NOT want to come apart no matter what I do.
This bastard in the front is seized on there solid, I'm 100% sure there's one of those steel inserts and it is basically welded together.
I have some separation in the back and up to the front on the left side. The front and front right just won't budge.
It isn't supposed to be this difficult, I don't know where to go from here. My arm is sore from using the rubber mallet.
btw does this look stock? It's the base gasket.
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Got the cases split tonight.
I test fit the kick start assembly, I think it's right. Is it supposed to engage and disengage the gears?
I'll look at it more later, I had a victory drink (some good whiskey) and I'm gonna get some sleep. This weekend is cleaning and tearing down the 650 engine. Maybe if I have time I'll start mocking up the rear sets.Comment
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I started disassembling the 650 engine this morning.
Pretty drastic difference in size between the 650 and 550 pistons.
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Great pics. Nice comparison of the 550 and 650.
Some of these bikes come apart easily and others are terrible. In my experience (three 550s only), you can't tell how it's gonna go just based on the condition of the outside. I've seen cases/covers held on with glue, gobs of RTV sealant, JB weld, grease, and paint.Comment
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Haha yea, I've seen build threads where the engine was held together by rtv and I'm glad I didn't have to deal with that.
Today I wanted to try Plastidip on my wheels. I want to replace them with E wheels or spokes someday so I didn't want to go through the whole paint and prep process on these. It looks okay in pictures but they were all blotchy and discolored. I just hit it with some sandpaper and degreased.
It came out pretty good, it does a good job of smoothing itself off and has a semi gloss finish.
I borrowed a caliper from a friend to check the shift forks
. They are wayyyy under spec. It was only a little difficult to shift into first sometimes and second to third if I didn't do it really smooth. I didn't think it would be that bad though, so now I have to look on eBay for good used ones. I think I found a good set but I have to look around a bit.
The minimum spec is like 5.30mm... Luckily the gear dogs (I think is the right word) are in perfect shape and so is the shift drum.
Btw, I plastic dipped the fork legs and it came out pretty good. If I don't like it I can just peel it off but again In don't wanna paint them because I'd like to get e forks.Last edited by Guest; 11-24-2012, 10:43 PM.Comment
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Btw has anyone here used the EBC heavy duty clutch kit? I need new plates, they're within spec but super hard and while they didn't slip before with the extra power they probably will. Its almost a $100 for new OEM and half that for the ebc kit.
In have some of the heavy duty springs already that I can install btw, but it was so odd when I checked the stock ones. Half of them were above minimum spec but half were way under... Strange...Comment
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Crap. I bought a NOS gasket set (not 100% complete but has the head gasket) off eBay late last night thinking it would be cheaper then getting a new one, but I forgot it was the old kind that uses the small rubber o-rings that fit around the 4 outer studs. Looking at the pic again theyre not in the gasket but may still be in the bag... Do I absolutely need to use them? The new ones don't use any o-rings, the holes are smaller though...Comment
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Does the service manual specify using calipers for measuring those forks? You should probably use a micrometer to measure them before you go and get new ones (although 0.08" is quite a bit off).
Dial calipers aren't really good for most precision measurements .Comment
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