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    Originally posted by John Kat View Post
    What about the piston to cylinder clearance?
    Same noise with 1166 cc pistons & block and 1360 cc pistons & block. Both have 0.08 mm piston to cylinder clearance.

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      Originally posted by Blower View Post
      I checked the crank again and #3 connecting rod big end bearing has slightly more play than others.
      But this wouldn't exactly give the "metalllic clanking noise", would it?

      It would be more of a vibration / rumbling noise, wouldn't it?

      GS850GT

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        Didn't you forget installing the primary drive cushion?
        It happened to me on my GS 1000....

        sigpicJohn Kat
        My bikes: CB 77, GS 1000 ST Cafe Racer with GSXR 1052 engine, GS 1000 ST, XR 41 Replica with GS 1085 engine,
        GS 1100 SZ Katana with GS 1135 EFF engine, KTM Superduke 1290 R 2020

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          Primary drive cushion was there. When I listening this noise with engine stethoscope, it was loudest on #4 area in the crank case.

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            Originally posted by psyguy View Post
            But this wouldn't exactly give the "metalllic clanking noise", would it?

            It would be more of a vibration / rumbling noise, wouldn't it?

            Worn main bearing gives rumbling noise and con.rod clanking noise. The most of the play in #3 big end found when the crank pin was at 3 oīclock position (oval crank pin?).

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              It sounds like you're more and more convinced it's the #3 con-rod / big end problem.
              Fixing that would be a quite a bit of work and money. I suppose if you can do the work yourself (?) that would cut the cost a lot.
              GS850GT

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                I get repaired spare crankshaft back. It had 3 bad main bearings.

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                  I installed crank & transmission in the engine, mounted engine in the frame, continued with installing pistons, cylinder block and clutch. Then I rotated crankshaft full round and it jammed slightly just before #2 & #3 were at tdc. I tried with other clutch basket and same thing. Seems like primary gear on the crank is not in center.
                  Now I need to find inspiration to tear it to parts again.

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                    Ugh, at least I assume there is still snow on the ground.

                    Complain a lot when you send it back. Maybe you can get something for all the trouble.

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                      Originally posted by Blower View Post
                      I installed crank & transmission in the engine, mounted engine in the frame, continued with installing pistons, cylinder block and clutch. Then I rotated crankshaft full round and it jammed slightly just before #2 & #3 were at tdc. I tried with other clutch basket and same thing. Seems like primary gear on the crank is not in center.
                      Now I need to find inspiration to tear it to parts again.
                      I didnt know that was possible, it is held on with bolts, then usually welded. Why did you not get a straight cut gear installed while the crank was apart?

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                        Is there a chance that you are mixing a 1100 gear with a 1150 gear? There is a difference.

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                          Originally posted by TeamDar View Post
                          Is there a chance that you are mixing a 1100 gear with a 1150 gear? There is a difference.
                          I donīt think that. That guy who did crank reparation changed only 3 main bearings, no other parts.
                          I did not get straight cut gears installed because itīs not necessary on street.

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                            I opened the engine and checked the primary gears with color. Contact area is narrow and on the other side of the gear.

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                              I get call from crankshaft guy today. Cause for jamming was one dented tooth on crank primary gear. He grind the dent down and now itīs ok. Should get it back tomorrow.

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                                Get the bike ready (I hope). I need only to fill the fuel tank with E85, start the bike and tune fuel map





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