1980 GS850GLT Road-worthiness Project

[eil]

Mista M: I've been there before but I don't go regularly since it's on the other side of town for me and I don't get over that way often.

[eil]

Alrighty, another weekend another update. So first of all, the more I start digging into the bike and looking it over, the more I discover that it needs almost everything redone or rebuilt. PO was basically lying through his teeth when he said it was running a year or two ago. By my estimation, it hasn't been roadworthy in at least a decade, so there's a good chance he never had it on the road at all. I guess this is fine because A) I bought the bike on the cheap B) I wanted to learn how to do all of this stuff anyway. I just wasn't expecting to have to do it all on one bike. It's a darned good thing I bought a Suzuki GS because this is the single most helpful forum I've ever come across on the Internet and I've been to a _lot_ of forums. You guys have helped me so much already and I've only had the bike three weeks!

So where was I? Oh yes, brakes. While I wait for new airbox boots, petcock, and other parts, I decided to start tearing into the front brakes to see what I'll need to buy there. The front brakes didn't work at all upon purchase and there was gunk in the reservoir. Additionally, peeling paint all over the MC says to me that the large o-ring under the reservoir was shot. I'm going to rebuild the master cylinder, all calipers, and replace the brake lines (home-made SS, most likely). This disassembly was to tell me what _else_ I need to buy.

I noted in an earlier post that the brake light switch was rather hosed. Mostly it just needs a good cleaning, but the more pressing issue was the rusted up spring which basically crumbled to dust between my fingers. I don't have a picture of it, but I ended up rifling through my pen and pencil collection trying to find a small enough spring that might work. I sacrificed a Bic mechanical pencil just to see what kind of spring it had inside it and it looks like it fits perfectly! It's a little wider and longer than the old spring but it should do. One less thing I have to buy! Woot!

Upon comparing the reservoir caps between the front and the back I also discovered that there's a white ring on top of the diaphragm that's missing on the front one. So I'll have to get one of those...



Then I set to work on separating the reservoir from the master cylinder. I stated earlier that I couldn't figure out how to separate the reservoir from the MC. Turns out it just needed some stern persuasion. After yanking on it for quite awhile, I noticed that it was starting to pull slightly from the MC body. Enough to jam a screwdriver into. So I did that, and it popped right out. Easy peasy.



This is what happens when you don't change your brake fluid, kiddies!



Tried getting the MC piston out to no avail. Basically there's a rusted clip with no bends or tabs that I can't figure out how to get out. The full story is over in this thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=203655 Suggestions welcome!

Next I went to work on the right caliper. Came apart easily enough for the most part. I've read a lot of stories about people having an absolute bear of a time getting the piston out, so I was worried that I would run into the same issue. Briefly thought about reassembling the MC, connecting the MC to the caliper with a single piece of hose, fill with fluid, bleed, and pump away with the caliper inside some kind of bucket or something. But there were two problems with this: A) Dunno if this would actually work since I've never heard of anyone doing it B) I don't have any spare brake fluid laying around yet.

So, I tried the most popular method instead: air.



This is my piston-popping setup. A bargain-bin bicycle pump from Walmart. I don't have a proper compressor, just a crappy 12V tire inflator. I had no idea whether this would work or not. I managed to dig up one of those conical plastic adapters for inflating pool toys and the like. Which was extremely lucky because I almost always throw those away and also because it happened to be just the right shape that I could thread it partway into the banjo bolt threads.

At first, I didn't have it in very well and all it did was leak air. So I tried rethreading the adapter and had another go at it. After a minute or two of no success and the piston not budging, I finally got angry, set the whole works down on the ground, and started pumping that thing like a madman. All of the sudden I heard a loud pop and the sound of a metal piston rolling away on the garage floor. It startled me something fierce, I thought I blew up the bicycle pump at first! Took me a few minutes to stop laughing at myself.



The newly-mangled conical adapter.

The piston, once cleaned up, turns out to have several pits all over the thing. I only tore down the right caliper because I wanted the left one intact as a reference in case I got confused whilst reassembling the right one with new parts. Based on what I see here, I have no reason to believe the left piston is any better, so I'll be ordering 2 piston kits. (Based on reading other caliper rebuild threads, it sounds like the piston kits come with all the seals and boots needed for rebuilding one caliper. Can anyone confirm this?)



You can also see one of the bleeder screws in the image above. Didn't get a good picture of it, but these are severely rusted on both of my front calipers and had no cap on them. I was going to try to order new ones (do they make them in brass or stainless steel?), but based on how things are going so far with this bike, I'd rather just see if I can clean these up and reuse them. I'm going to try giving them the vinegar treatment. I suppose painting them would be silly. Anyone have good tips on sourcing/making makeshift caps?

Also decided on purchasing brand-new front and rear tires and having a stab at mounting them myself. Shinko 230's, $130 for the set. I won't be buying them until I get the engine and brakes sorted, though. (Or would it be better to buy them now? Is the price guaranteed to go up in the spring?)

This might be my last update for a little while. At this point, I'm basically waiting on parts and then budget for buying more parts before much else can happen.

[GateKeeper]

Save yourself time and headache and order your Stainless Steel brake lines from this place...

http://stores.ebay.ca/Rennsport-Auto-Parts/_i.html?_nkw=suzuki&submit=Search&_sid=5680214

send an email to the guy and get what you need, email is on this page

http://www.rennsportautoparts.com/

[Steve]

PO was basically lying through his teeth when he said it was running a year or two ago. By my estimation, it hasn't been roadworthy in at least a decade, so there's a good chance he never had it on the road at all.

Until you can VERIFY any of the claims, you should automatically assume they are all lies.


.

It's a darned good thing I bought a Suzuki GS because this is the single most helpful forum I've ever come across on the Internet and I've been to a _lot_ of forums. You guys have helped me so much already and I've only had the bike three weeks!

Three weeks and that thing is not on the road yet???

I noted in an earlier post that the brake light switch was rather hosed. Mostly it just needs a good cleaning, but the more pressing issue was the rusted up spring which basically crumbled to dust between my fingers. I don't have a picture of it, but I ended up rifling through my pen and pencil collection trying to find a small enough spring that might work. I sacrificed a Bic mechanical pencil just to see what kind of spring it had inside it and it looks like it fits perfectly! It's a little wider and longer than the old spring but it should do. One less thing I have to buy! Woot!

Just so you know, you can get the whole switch assembly for about $10. That includes the circuit board with the contacts (includes the wires that go into the headlight bucket), the U-shaped slider, the spring, the plastic piece that goes into the brake handle, the outer cover and the two screws that hold everything together. Not a bad deal, and that way, EVERYTHING will be new.

I have no reason to believe the left piston is any better, so I'll be ordering 2 piston kits. (Based on reading other caliper rebuild threads, it sounds like the piston kits come with all the seals and boots needed for rebuilding one caliper. Can anyone confirm this?)

That would depend on your source. If you order from one of our favorite online dealers and get OEM stuff (highly recommended), you can see on the parts fiche that item #1 in the diagram is called "PISTON SET", and it also includes parts 2 and 3, which are "SEAL, PISTON" and "BOOT, PISTON". If you order after-market parts, you will have to contact the supplier to see if the seals are included.

You can also see one of the bleeder screws in the image above. Didn't get a good picture of it, but these are severely rusted on both of my front calipers and had no cap on them. I was going to try to order new ones (do they make them in brass or stainless steel?), but based on how things are going so far with this bike, I'd rather just see if I can clean these up and reuse them. I'm going to try giving them the vinegar treatment. I suppose painting them would be silly. Anyone have good tips on sourcing/making makeshift caps?

You might be able to find either/both of them at Auto Zone (or similar), but both items are available on the same parts fiche for the piston sets. Look at items #13 and 14.

Also decided on purchasing brand-new front and rear tires and having a stab at mounting them myself. Shinko 230's, $130 for the set. I won't be buying them until I get the engine and brakes sorted, though. (Or would it be better to buy them now? Is the price guaranteed to go up in the spring?)

I have not noticed any seasonal variation on tire prices. I got my Shinko 230s from Motorcycle Superstore two years ago and paid about the same price. And, that was around the first of June, the start of the prime riding season.

.

[eil]

Just so you know, you can get the whole switch assembly for about $10. That includes the circuit board with the contacts (includes the wires that go into the headlight bucket), the U-shaped slider, the spring, the plastic piece that goes into the brake handle, the outer cover and the two screws that hold everything together. Not a bad deal, and that way, EVERYTHING will be new.

Sure, but I'm trying to keep expenses down since I'm having to replace a lot more parts than I thought I would. $10 doesn't sound like a big deal, but if I can consistently clean up and reuse the bits that otherwise work fine, that will save me a small pile of dough over the winter!

That would depend on your source. If you order from one of our favorite online dealers and get OEM stuff (highly recommended), you can see on the parts fiche that item #1 in the diagram is called "PISTON SET", and it also includes parts 2 and 3, which are "SEAL, PISTON" and "BOOT, PISTON". If you order after-market parts, you will have to contact the supplier to see if the seals are included.

I thought I read a thread somewhere on here where a guy got his "piston set" and it included the caliper bolt boots as well. I need those too since mine are shot. I'll have to see if I can dig that up. (Although it was a different model bike, so may not apply...)

I have not noticed any seasonal variation on tire prices. I got my Shinko 230s from Motorcycle Superstore two years ago and paid about the same price. And, that was around the first of June, the start of the prime riding season.

Cool, I'll just wait awhile then. I might even set up some price alerts to watch and see if they go on sale. (Unlikely, but can't hurt.)

Thanks, Steve!

[eil]

Okay, I didn't think I was going to have anything new to report for awhile, but I managed to steal away for an hour or two in the garage today.



Item the first: MC disassembly successful! I basically gouged out the white plastic washer and the c-clip came with it. Nothing but gunk behind the washer, so I cleaned it out by squirting Simple Green and then the circlip was finally revealed. Pulled that out, but the MC still didn't want to come out. I took a screwdriver and pushed the MC down and let it spring back. After about a dozen rounds of that, it finally overcame the rust and crud and sprang out. It was full of rust and crud, just like the reservoir.

Item the second: I left the bleeder screws sitting in 6% vinegar overnight. Really impressed with how clean the one got! Almost all of the rust is gone and it's starting to look like new. The other one only got semi-clean because I had it covered in PB Blaster, which must have been protecting the rust from the vinegar. Cleaned that one off with Simple Green and will let it continue to soak with the other.

Item the third: I mentioned in a previous post that my petcock seemed to be seeping. Trying to avoid dumping $50 or more on a new one if I can help it, so I decided to see what I can do to troubleshoot it. (Side note: I can hear the screams, "just buy a new one already!" But look at it from my perspective: this is a winter project. I don't mind spending time chasing a few wild geese here and there. I bought this bike to learn from, not just throw money at it.) I think, but am not certain, that the plastic washers for the bolts holding the petcock on are cracked/old/broken/worn. I plan to find some new ones (vinyl?) to see if they will stop the seeping.

[cowboyup3371]

If you are talking about part number 18 here:

G&S Suzuki has them for $1.16 each

GASKET - Part #09168-06023 (replaces 09168-06010) Needs 2 cost $1.16

[eil]

I thought I'd drop by the local hardware store first to see if they might have anything that would work. (Mainly so that I'm not paying shipping on two plastic washers that may or may not fix the problem...) Didn't think to check the parts fiche to be honest, I rather thought those would only be available as part of a new petcock! Nice to know I can order them if need be. Thanks!

[cowboyup3371]

Those washers have a special surface that helps seal them; getting something from a hardware store won't work due to its nature.

[GateKeeper]

Those washers have a special surface that helps seal them; getting something from a hardware store won't work due to its nature.

Yup, and don't add extra washers of any kind either, like I did and then had leaks, took the extra washers out, used just what had to be there and low and behold no more leaking.....the original washers get squished just enough to make a nice seal.....

[DanTheMan]

Nice thread! I also have a 1980 GS850GLT (slightly modified, has a G seat, bigger tank), I got it from a friend of mine at church for $850 in '05 with only 25k miles on it. I still haven't overhauled my brake system (I'm bad, I know) and my front is really due now. I've got all the parts and pieces, just haven't had the time yet. Besides, I've been riding my new (to me, only had it two years now) 1100G lately. I've more projects than time at the moment, my '74 Jeep CJ6 has to be in great working order before summer is over (rewiring + many other things to be done), house renovation projects, professional exams to be completed (1st class Class A Boiler license), pianos and pump organs to be rebuilt (the business I own is a Piano Tuning & Repair business), and concerts to play in (I belong to 2 symphony orchestras) as well as motorcycle safety classes to teach starting in May.
I can't figure out why I get tired and don't get everything done......

If you need a good petcock, mine was still working fine when I changed tanks, but it's been sitting for a couple of years now, so who knows?

I'm looking forward to hearing how your project comes out and the first test ride. Good luck!

[eil]

Hi Dan,

You're a busy guy! Me too... since getting this bike, I've had to make a rule for myself: No going out to the garage on weeknights after work. Otherwise, my family would never see me.

I'll keep you in mind for that petcock. Really do appreciate the offer. I think I can make this one work with some trial and error. If not, you might hear from me.

Do the G seat and tank fit the L frame, or was there welding involved? I'm thinking I'll get this bike up and running and ride it over the summer. And then, depending on how well I like it, I might do a frame-off restoration next winter and see if I can't dispense with a few of the more glaring L-isms. I'm already planning to source some non-L handlebars soon. I've wondered about putting a G seat and rear fender on but wasn't sure whether they would fit. (And how I'd ever get to the seat lock with that tail piece on...)

I'm waiting on about $200 in parts from G&S Suzuki right now to get the engine running smoothly and rebuild the front brakes. Still have to look into ordering SS brake line bits and pieces. I'll be sure to post up everything I do.

[DanTheMan]

Hi Dan,

You're a busy guy! Me too... since getting this bike, I've had to make a rule for myself: No going out to the garage on weeknights after work. Otherwise, my family would never see me.

I'll keep you in mind for that petcock. Really do appreciate the offer. I think I can make this one work with some trial and error. If not, you might hear from me.

Do the G seat and tank fit the L frame, or was there welding involved? I'm thinking I'll get this bike up and running and ride it over the summer. And then, depending on how well I like it, I might do a frame-off restoration next winter and see if I can't dispense with a few of the more glaring L-isms. I'm already planning to source some non-L handlebars soon. I've wondered about putting a G seat and rear fender on but wasn't sure whether they would fit. (And how I'd ever get to the seat lock with that tail piece on...)

I'm waiting on about $200 in parts from G&S Suzuki right now to get the engine running smoothly and rebuild the front brakes. Still have to look into ordering SS brake line bits and pieces. I'll be sure to post up everything I do.

Hi eil,
The G seat did need some mods to set it up. I'd already installed a larger tank (see this thread, the Saddlemen king/queen seat I'm willing to sell, by the way) http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=160112, but with the addition of ears on the front of the G seat (82 and later already have them) and a couple of pieces of weld steel and bolts/nuts, it's an easy mount. You'll have to cut the front loops for the seat off the frame and raise them 1" (I used square tubing for this) so the seat will clear the fender properly. Not a big deal if you have a wire feed welder.

[eil]

Hey Dan, thanks for the offer but I think I'll pass on the seat. I'm just gathering info on G and GL parts compatibility on the off-chance that I do a full restore on the bike next year.

Otherwise, I'm still largely in parts-waiting mode. I placed a big order from gssuzuki.com a week ago but haven't heard anything yet about it actually shipping.

- Cleaned up the MC and one caliper
- Bought new fiber washers for the petcock (tank has been sitting full of gas for two days and the petcock is still dry as a bone, so I'm calling that fixed)
- Bought parts for the SS brake lines from AN Plumbing
- Bought a left-hand headlight bracket from eBay because I discovered mine was bent, making the headlight point to the left instead of straight
- Working to buy a set of used bars from a forum member here

If nothing's arrived by this weekend I may start looking at electrical stuff. Cleaning connections, splicing together the wries that PO cut, etc.

[Dogma]

...
- Bought new fiber washers for the petcock (tank has been sitting full of gas for two days and the petcock is still dry as a bone, so I'm calling that fixed)
...

Let us know if it acts like it's starving for fuel when you get it going well enough to run at sustained highway speeds. I'm not saying it definitely will happen...