1980 GS550L rebuild

[glenwill]

Thanks Eil and Mike. I'll use some silicone to seal the cracks, and see how it goes.

I'll also order a dial indicator and see what the rotors looks like.

Another, unrelated question. I ordered Progressive Fork Springs last week from BikeBandit.com, and they showed up today. My GS550L has 2 part springs, separated by a washer.

I picked a Progressive spring that BikeBandit said fit my bike, a Progressive 416.

The springs came today, and there is only one spring per fork, and it is a little longer than just the longer of my original springs. It is no where near as long as my short and long spring put together.

I have emailed BikeBandit to find out if something was missing, but I was wondering whether anyone here knows whether I should have gotten both springs? Or can I just reuse the shorter spring?

Glen

[mike_of_bbg]

I picked a Progressive spring that BikeBandit said fit my bike, a Progressive 416.

The springs came today, and there is only one spring per fork, and it is a little longer than just the longer of my original springs. It is no where near as long as my short and long spring put together.

I have emailed BikeBandit to find out if something was missing, but I was wondering whether anyone here knows whether I should have gotten both springs? Or can I just reuse the shorter spring?

Hmmm, 416 sounds like a shock model, not a spring model - sounds like you're talking about the front forks though? Progressive springs usually seem to have part #'s like 11-11xx (i.e., 11-1115 I think is what I ended up buying). Make sure whatever you bought at least fits into the fork uppers.

What you'll want to do is get some PVC pipe (3/4", probably) and cut it to the correct length to fill up the remaining space plus maybe 1-2" of pre-load on the spring. What you're looking for is about 1.5" of "sag" when on the bike, in riding position (1.5" is about 25% of total fork travel). The springs are not custom made, there's just a recommended size of spring (diameter, length, and spring rate) for your bike. The length is not going to match, as you have noticed. You'll have to adjust spacing from there.

BassCliff has a write-up from changing his stock springs to Progressives on his site. In it he shows making the spacers and measuring sag. Here's the direct link to that PDF:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff1/images/Install_Progressive_Fork_Springs.pdf

Oh, and for your info/entertainment, here's the list of parts from Progressive Suspension. The first two pages are fork springs, and yes, 416 is a progressive rear shock model.

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pdfs/7100-105.pdf

[glenwill]

Hmmm, 416 sounds like a shock model, not a spring model - sounds like you're talking about the front forks though? Progressive springs usually seem to have part #'s like 11-11xx (i.e., 11-1115 I think is what I ended up buying). Make sure whatever you bought at least fits into the fork uppers.
...

Thanks Mike. I think I may be ok, but I want to confirm.

First, here is the product on the BikeBandit.com site:
http://www.bikebandit.com/progressiv...prings?m=21461

Even in the link name you can see they call it a 416 series fork spring. However, when I looked at the Progressive box that came with the springs in it, it identifies it as a model 11-1106, which according to the Progressive site is the correct model number.

Just to be clear, though, here is a picture of my springs:



At the top is my current 2-part spring, which is 25" long.

Below that is the new spring, which is 19" long. So I may need a piece of PVC about 6" long. Is this reasonable?

Glen

[glenwill]

I am further confused by the fact that the Progressive page for my bike says that a spacer is not required for the 11-1106:

http://www.progressivesuspension.com...45&modelID=846

[mike_of_bbg]

Glen,

I called Progressive about the springs I bought. First, the wrong ones were in the package (may have been a returns issue with the reseller, perhaps not their fault). When I did finally get the correct springs, they were thinner than they needed to be (note the 11-1115 has 22mm OD IIRC) were not long enough although it said "no spacer required". What they came right out and said was that most of their database was gained from acquiring another company and they really don't have any idea where the suggestions came from. I still installed my springs (with PVC spacers) and they work fine and handle much better than the originals. The 1106's look like they should be fine for your application, the 25mm OD should fit. Of course you're going to need to add spacers.

The bottom line of what I'm saying is that there's no hard-and-fast rule about this - you're going to have to do a bit of experimentation. You'll notice that the Progressive page just says "GS550", and probably doesn't even have an option for L, E or whatever sub-model, despite the fact that the L is going to use a longer spring. Those springs are going to work, you are just going to have to find the right pre-load that works for you and ignore Progressive's note on there. Six inches isn't an unlikely amount for the spacers at all; don't get all crazy with pre-load and make 'em a foot long so you don't even have 6" of travel and you'll be OK. A good rule of thumb for starting I think is to size the spacers so they're about 1" out of the forks at full extension and no load (that will be about 1.5" of pre-load after installation). You can cut the spacers down later if it's too much pre-load, or add washers (or just re-cut longer spacers) if you want some more.

Also, may I suggest not leaning on Bike Bandit too heavily? I have bought a few things there myself, though not so much. Things like that page (no model #), or the fact that they don't use real Suzuki part #'s for OEM parts really p1ss me off. You can usually find better prices for stuff than there - those same springs from powersportsuperstore would have run you less than $70 shipped.

[glenwill]

Glen,

I called Progressive about the springs I bought. First, the wrong ones were in the package (may have been a returns issue with the reseller, perhaps not their fault). When I did finally get the correct springs, they were thinner than they needed to be (note the 11-1115 has 22mm OD IIRC) were not long enough although it said "no spacer required". What they came right out and said was that most of their database was gained from acquiring another company and they really don't have any idea where the suggestions came from. I still installed my springs (with PVC spacers) and they work fine and handle much better than the originals. The 1106's look like they should be fine for your application, the 25mm OD should fit. Of course you're going to need to add spacers.

The bottom line of what I'm saying is that there's no hard-and-fast rule about this - you're going to have to do a bit of experimentation. You'll notice that the Progressive page just says "GS550", and probably doesn't even have an option for L, E or whatever sub-model, despite the fact that the L is going to use a longer spring. Those springs are going to work, you are just going to have to find the right pre-load that works for you and ignore Progressive's note on there. Six inches isn't an unlikely amount for the spacers at all; don't get all crazy with pre-load and make 'em a foot long so you don't even have 6" of travel and you'll be OK. A good rule of thumb for starting I think is to size the spacers so they're about 1" out of the forks at full extension and no load (that will be about 1.5" of pre-load after installation). You can cut the spacers down later if it's too much pre-load, or add washers (or just re-cut longer spacers) if you want some more.

Also, may I suggest not leaning on Bike Bandit too heavily? I have bought a few things there myself, though not so much. Things like that page (no model #), or the fact that they don't use real Suzuki part #'s for OEM parts really p1ss me off. You can usually find better prices for stuff than there - those same springs from powersportsuperstore would have run you less than $70 shipped.

Thanks so much for your help, Mike. The measured length of the springs in the box matches what Progressive says that model spring should be, so I do think I got the 'correct' ones. But as you say, they don't even list the sub models, so who knows if they are really 'correct'.

As long as 6" spacers won't be an issue or cause any instability or handling problem, I'm fine with long spacers.

Do you think that will effect the amount of fork oil I need? BassCliff's page says to fill with oil to 140 mm before adding the springs and spacers. But with such a long spacer, it will likely displace more oil than the same length of spring would have. Do I need to account for that somehow?

Glen

[mike_of_bbg]

I don't think the spacer is going to make much difference in the oil level requirements. By the way, the factory manual says 217ml per leg, or a level of 229mm/9.02 in. for the GS550LT (yes, fork extended, upright, no springs; pump it a few times slowly to purge air from the lowers). BC's bike is a GS850 and it has a wider fork leg. While you're putting in oil, what you're actually setting the level of is air above the oil. The air will compress as the fork does and basically acts as another spring. This is also why you want to be sure to even out your oil levels, so that you have equal air spring on both sides.

[glenwill]

I don't think the spacer is going to make much difference in the oil level requirements. By the way, the factory manual says 217ml per leg, or a level of 229mm/9.02 in. for the GS550LT (yes, fork extended, upright, no springs; pump it a few times slowly to purge air from the lowers). BC's bike is a GS850 and it has a wider fork leg. While you're putting in oil, what you're actually setting the level of is air above the oil. The air will compress as the fork does and basically acts as another spring. This is also why you want to be sure to even out your oil levels, so that you have equal air spring on both sides.

Thanks for the corrected numbers. I was thinking that the 140 MM came from Progressive, but that is Progressive's maximum. They say to follow the bike's recommended level unless it is above 140.

I'll go with 229 mm.

Regarding the preload, I am a larger rider (270 lb), so I assume I want to start with a bit more preload, correct? Is there somewhere to calculate preload? I know from BassCliff's page how to check preload after I put it back together, and adjust as necessary, I just want to avoid starting too small and having to cut brand new spacers, since mine are long to begin with.

[glenwill]

Thanks for the corrected numbers. I was thinking that the 140 MM came from Progressive, but that is Progressive's maximum. They say to follow the bike's recommended level unless it is above 140.

I'll go with 229 mm.

Regarding the preload, I am a larger rider (270 lb), so I assume I want to start with a bit more preload, correct? Is there somewhere to calculate preload? I know from BassCliff's page how to check preload after I put it back together, and adjust as necessary, I just want to avoid starting too small and having to cut brand new spacers, since mine are long to begin with.

If anyone has a thought on preload, let me know. I am thinking I will start with the spacers sticking up about 1 1/2" before putting on the cap, and adjust from there.

I am trying to find a replacement handlebar. Mine was bent when I got it, I straightened it, and it got bent again when my son dropped the bike, so I straightened it again. I am not sure I can get it back into perfect shape again, and I've heard that each re-bend weakens them.

I am trying to keep the same bars as was originally on the bike. I know the "L" models get a lot of flack for their handlebars, among other quirks, but I have somewhat short arms for my height, and the longer bars feel comfortable for me.

The problem is that I am having trouble finding something comparable. I've seen many descriptions on how to measure them, and I still don't feel confident I've found something similar.

Anyone have any guidance?

Glen

[tkent02]

I have a few 550L bars here to sell. One great condition, one in fairly good condition.

[glenwill]

I have a few 550L bars here to sell. One great condition, one in fairly good condition.

Thanks. PM sent.

[glenwill]

I need a rebuild kit for my front master cylinder, 1980 GS550L.

I can't find something sold as a rebuild kit. Many sites (Z1, Dennis Kirk, Powersportsplus) have a rear master cylinder rebuild kit, but not front.

Is part 1 from this fiche the same thing:
http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche...1980&fveh=2111

Glen

[mike_of_bbg]

Yes, part #1 is the kit need. You might also think about replacing the MC O-ring #3 if there are any signs of weepage around the bottom of the reservoir. You'll want to pull the reservoir anyway and make sure the return port underneath it is clear.

[glenwill]

Yes, part #1 is the kit need. You might also think about replacing the MC O-ring #3 if there are any signs of weepage around the bottom of the reservoir. You'll want to pull the reservoir anyway and make sure the return port underneath it is clear.

Awesome, thanks Mike. I had no leakage, and the cup and o-ring looked good. I tried to take the boot off of the piston to inspect, and ripped it! Figured I might as well just buy the rebuild kit and make sure it is in good order.

Glen

[glenwill]

I had 1/2" PVC, and it seems a little loose in the fork tube, so I went and bought a length of 3/4" PVC, and it won't fit in. It's just barely too big. Like if I used a hammer, I could probably force it in. I won't, obviously! Just emphasizing how close it is to fitting. Regardless, I can't use the 3/4".

When I hold the 1/2" PVC end-to-end with the spring, it is just slightly smaller. I think with the washer in between, it will work just fine, even though it is a little loose. Any problem with it slapping around?

Glen