Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
1980 GS550L rebuild
Collapse
X
-
You'll be fine.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
-
glenwill
Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View PostI don't think the spacer is going to make much difference in the oil level requirements. By the way, the factory manual says 217ml per leg, or a level of 229mm/9.02 in. for the GS550LT (yes, fork extended, upright, no springs; pump it a few times slowly to purge air from the lowers). BC's bike is a GS850 and it has a wider fork leg. While you're putting in oil, what you're actually setting the level of is air above the oil. The air will compress as the fork does and basically acts as another spring. This is also why you want to be sure to even out your oil levels, so that you have equal air spring on both sides.
Glen
Comment
-
mike_of_bbg
I believe I mis-typed before and that's correct, compressed My apologies. Sometimes the fingers disconnect from the brain (or the brain just ain't too well connected to begin with!).
Make sure you pump them (slowly!) a few times to try to purge any captured air in the lowers for a more accurate level.
By the way, just in case you were not aware, there's a PDF format factory service manual covering 77-82 GS550s on BassCliff's little site:
The fork oil levels for the GS550LT are in the appendix for that model on P. 384.
Comment
-
glenwill
Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View PostI believe I mis-typed before and that's correct, compressed My apologies. Sometimes the fingers disconnect from the brain (or the brain just ain't too well connected to begin with!).
Make sure you pump them (slowly!) a few times to try to purge any captured air in the lowers for a more accurate level.
By the way, just in case you were not aware, there's a PDF format factory service manual covering 77-82 GS550s on BassCliff's little site:
The fork oil levels for the GS550LT are in the appendix for that model on P. 384.
Yes, I have the service manual, and it also says to compress the forks.
Glen
Comment
-
glenwill
My manual says 217 cc/mm of oil, and a measured distance from the top of 229 mm or 9 inches.
my measure goes in 40 milliliter increments, so I went between 200 and 240, which should be around 220 milliliters.
however, when I measure the distance from the top it's actually 10.25 inches. I did it again on the other tube just to make sure I had measured correctly, and it comes out the same way.
so which do I go by? I made up a tube that I can draw out excess above the 9 inches, so I can add until I reach that level, and then draw out the access. But that would end up with more than 217 milliliter. Will that be okay?
Glen
Comment
-
glenwill
Just checking if anyone has a thought on this.
In order to reach the 9.02" (or 229 mm), I need to add roughly 1.25" of oil.
I did some calculations and 1.25 inches of oil will equate to roughly another 16 ml of oil.
I don't understand how the manual could be off that much, or what to do about it.
Can anyone suggest whether I should go by the measured volume of 217 ml or by the measured height of 229 mm/9.02 inches?
Glen
Comment
-
glenwill
I found some other posts that seem to make clear that the height from the top is what matters, not the amount of oil. Most of those were in reference to the measured amount of oil being too high, and the assumption is that maybe they didn't get all of the old oil out.
I my case the measured amount is too low, and I need to add more oil to reach the right level.
I'm going to go ahead with that approach, and set the level to 9.02" from the top, adding about 15-20 ml of oil.
Glen
Comment
-
glenwill
I'm still in need a new handlebars. As I mentioned before, I like the stock L bars, mine are rusty and have been bent badly and bent back several times. I'd feel better with new ones.
Any hints on how to find something the same or very similar?
Glen
Comment
-
I have some handebars. Not as high as the L but not as low as the ES.
I think they are off an 82 GS1100E.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
I have the stock bars off my 1980 GS850GL that you are welcome to for the cost of shipping. Only problem is that they are a little on the rusty side. Not solid brown or anything, but I don't think they could be made shiny again as-is. Don't know if the cost of getting them rechromed would be worth it, but I thought I would offer them up anyway.
Comment
-
glenwill
Originally posted by eil View PostI have the stock bars off my 1980 GS850GL that you are welcome to for the cost of shipping. Only problem is that they are a little on the rusty side. Not solid brown or anything, but I don't think they could be made shiny again as-is. Don't know if the cost of getting them rechromed would be worth it, but I thought I would offer them up anyway.
Comment
-
Originally posted by glenwill View PostThanks! Do you have a picture of them by chance?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
Originally posted by glenwill View PostI'm still in need a new handlebars. As I mentioned before, I like the stock L bars, mine are rusty and have been bent badly and bent back several times. I'd feel better with new ones.
Any hints on how to find something the same or very similar?
Glen
If I remember the chrome is good and they are straight. I'll pull them out if you want more info.:cool:GSRick
No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.
Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.
Comment
-
glenwill
I'm pretty happy with how the forks are polishing up. Here's a shot of the old and new:
The rest of the aluminum is coming out nice too. I'll take some more pix when I finish the buffing stage.
Glen
Comment
Comment