81 GS 750L Bobbed

[Weeksz]

Inside the piston boss where the wrist pin slides. lookes like waves with a small fracture.

Untitled by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

And when I say over torqued. i'm talking about how this chunk of aluminum ended up inside my valves. do you see the large threaded piece of metal that is missing from the side of the head bolt-sleeve? I'm just wondering if this is something that will give me problems down the road. I'd no professional and when I see damage on or wear to the internals I'm not sure what is supposed to raise a red flag ect.

Untitled by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

[Weeksz]

That isnt my tank. thats RockGS1000's btw.

Maybe little to late but about your gauges but, i have dimecitycycles gauges on my bike and I love them!

I still havent gotten a set so I'll keep these in mind. I was looking into them back when I was really trying to get some but its probably going to be further down the road now. I'll keep it in mind thanks!

[tkent02]

I think the piston is fine, normal casting make it look like that. And I think it was overtorqued probably a few times to break the bolt, to break the casting took some serious torque..

[SocialAnomaly99]

Maybe little to late but about your gauges but, i have dimecitycycles gauges on my bike and I love them!

Just wanted to say that I also had the Dime City gauges and loved them... Until both the speedo and tach failed. The speedo needle started to jump around and eventually broke at only 350-ish miles. Soon after, my tach needle simply broke off... I then had to fight tooth and nail with the returns dpt, and even Herm (the owner of dime city himself) in order to get the gauges returned. Long story short, there was some poor communication, but everything worked out in the end. Just don't buy those gauges...

[Steve]

First off the Pilot screw #2

pilot screw by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

What would be the best method for removing this. I cant get any bite on it with a flathead-its toast.

Your best bet there is to use a Dremel tool with a large cut-off wheel to cut a slot down the entire tower and cut a new slot in the end of the screw.
When you are done, they will look like this:

Next is the Pilot Jet #3


pilot jet by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

The head of this thing looks like it was put into a blender. I've tried every size flathead and even bought two more to hopefully be able to get some torque on it but no luck. heat and pb blaster with no luck either. I dont want to damage it anymore than it already is-if in fact that is possible. Seems like this one will be pretty tough because of the small opening. Thoughts?

What did you use for "heat"? A propane torch works very well.

If that does not work, use some left-handed drill bits and a slow speed on the drill. At slow speeds, the drill will tend to 'bite', which just might drag the jet out with it. Obviously, you will need new jets. Soak it with penetrating oil first, either way you go.

and finally these Float seats and float pin #2.


float needle by Weeksteeze, on Flickr
This float pin has a small indent on it where it seems like it was forced out previously or something... They mention in the tutorial that if any of the tapered end has a ridge then it should be replaced. Does this go for the tapered end on this side? It is possible that the float couuld get caught on this?

The "tapered end" is hidden between your thumb and finger. That little indent will not affect operation at all.

then the float seats.... I cannot get these things out. I've watched videos online and it seems they just pop right out with needle nose pliers. Well I dont want to damage them but they will NOT budge. I've tried pretty hard and have began to mark the sides of them. I dont want to conttinue until i solve this but I've tried needle nose pliers. Light grip with vice grips and tried screwdriver to put leverage under it where the indent is scored around the sides. No luck. Should it be this tough to remove?

Yes, sometimes they are very tough to remove. Soak with penetrating oil first. Grab with needle-nose pliers, twist and pull, then THROW THEM AWAY. Get new ones, along with new needles, you will not have to worry about them for another 30 years. I get mine from =custom&filters[year]=1981]Parts-n-More. They are not OEM, but I have never had any problems with them.

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[gmansyz]

Hey, a GSXR1100 head goes right on to fix the broken head. And, where are the mufflers??
G

[JTGS850GL]

All I can say is WOW!!! That poor engine has been through a lot of abuse. Good luck with the restore.

I'm assuming that you did remove the retaining screw and plate before you attempted to remove the float seats. If so, then I'd do as Steve recommended and just grab that sucker with some pliers and twist as you pull. Then get some new ones.

[Weeksz]

Your best bet there is to use a Dremel tool with a large cut-off wheel to cut a slot down the entire tower and cut a new slot in the end of the screw.
When you are done, they will look like this:

.

That is a good idea as I hadnt thought of that before. I ordered some new carbs that just arrived today so hopefully they will all play nice.

What did you use for "heat"? A propane torch works very well.


If that does not work, use some left-handed drill bits and a slow speed on the drill. At slow speeds, the drill will tend to 'bite', which just might drag the jet out with it. Obviously, you will need new jets. Soak it with penetrating oil first, either way you go.

yes I used a propane torch but I think the threads are damaged and making the removal much harder especially on an already stripped screw head. I was able to screw it further in then back it out only to a certain point where it would get stuck. The must have been some damage to the threads from a screwdriver having so much use in there.

The "tapered end" is hidden between your thumb and finger. That little indent will not affect operation at all.


Yes, sometimes they are very tough to remove. Soak with penetrating oil first. Grab with needle-nose pliers, twist and pull, then THROW THEM AWAY. Get new ones, along with new needles, you will not have to worry about them for another 30 years. I get mine from =custom&filters[year]=1981]Parts-n-More. They are not OEM, but I have never had any problems with them.

.

Thanks for the advice. I did get them to come out with some force and new seats will indeed be on order. I just didnt know if these were some of the good oem brass parts that you want to keep.

All I can say is WOW!!! That poor engine has been through a lot of abuse. Good luck with the restore.

I'm assuming that you did remove the retaining screw and plate before you attempted to remove the float seats. If so, then I'd do as Steve recommended and just grab that sucker with some pliers and twist as you pull. Then get some new ones..

Yeah she needs some serious tlc but she'll be back here soon, thank you. Yes I did remove that plate and screw (i know it remains in the photo).

[Weeksz]

What are the little jets that sit on top of the crank case, one on each side? At the base of the top end next to the studs there are little brass-what i assume to be-oil jets. Do these get seated all the way down? And should they be adjusted/cleaned? Unlike the rest of the brass parts on the bike, it appears these hadn't been touched by the previous owner.

Thanks

[Weeksz]

Should piston rings be replaced with doing a top end? The cylinder bore is smooth and they dont look damaged or "used" much. I'd rather not spend the money on 4 new oem sets for $100. But I will if that is a must.

Thanks

[Weeksz]

Does anyone know what the model number for Mikuni carbs are on a 1981 GS750 L?

Are any of these carbs able to run on bikes if they are a year older or newer? I was told that I was receiving the carbs for my bike but they appear to have a different throttle assembly than my set (that is torn apart so I cannot directly compare.

[ShadowFocus603]

Bs32ss is what I have on my L. And if your throttle and choke stays are different just use your old ones like I did when I ordered a new set. Hell mine that I ordered were even spaced a little differently overall. I just put a bit of oil on the boots and wiggled them in. Thank god for flexible longish rubber boots.

[Jbowles]

Does anyone know what the model number for Mikuni carbs are on a 1981 GS750 L?

Are any of these carbs able to run on bikes if they are a year older or newer? I was told that I was receiving the carbs for my bike but they appear to have a different throttle assembly than my set (that is torn apart so I cannot directly compare.

model no. for your carbs BS32SS

[Weeksz]

Fantastic thank you.

[Weeksz]

So I got my head back from the machine shop and all the sheered cam journal bolts extracted but they said that it was gonna cost me a lot to get everything jet-washed. I'm wondering a good way to ensure that all the metal flake is out of there before I start rebuilding.

My plan is to use brake cleaner and then spray out with a compressor. Or should I use a power wash? Ideas?? I'm trying to save cost too.

Also, I asked this in another thread with no response. How important is it to get the carbon deposits out of the intake and exhaust ports?? Is this something that's just going to build back up after an hour of riding it again? Or is this something that you want to spend a lot of time on? I've gotten the vavle seats and valves good with some Seafoam and i'm going to lap my valves but what about in the ports??

Thanks for any input.