82' GS850G project bike

[Steve]

Your "resistor" is neither a resistor nor a fuse.

It is a self-resetting circuit breaker.

Nice item to have, but it should be more than 10 amp capacity. The stock MAIN fuse is 15 amps, but it does not have to carry the full output of the R/R. It only supplies the bike with power until the engine is running, then it takes what's left over from the stator output and sends it back to recharge the battery. That circuit breaker is apparently in a direct line from the R/R to the battery, it should be 25-30 amps.

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[Hakamisu]

Your "resistor" is neither a resistor nor a fuse.

It is a self-resetting circuit breaker.

Nice item to have, but it should be more than 10 amp capacity. The stock MAIN fuse is 15 amps, but it does not have to carry the full output of the R/R. It only supplies the bike with power until the engine is running, then it takes what's left over from the stator output and sends it back to recharge the battery. That circuit breaker is apparently in a direct line from the R/R to the battery, it should be 25-30 amps.

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So, I should keep it hooked to the battery? Just with a bigger self resetting breaker? Or would it be okay to hook it up to the ignition side like some other forums I've read?

[tom203]

So, I should keep it hooked to the battery? Just with a bigger self resetting breaker? Or would it be okay to hook it up to the ignition side like some other forums I've read?

The original R/R fed the positive back into harness (so it could power the bike needs with any surplus going to battery)- some PO got befuddled with the Shindengen R/R upgrade and went direct to battery (or so it seems from your pics). As Steve said, you need a 25 amp fuse for this approach; a simple inline fuse is fine- no need for circuit breaker. On my my bike, I split the hot feed from the R/R- I connect to harness and have a 20 amp inline fuse direct to battery positive as backup.

[wedoo2]

I am going to comment on your first post about the tear down. I have done many and the best advise I can give is that you bag and tag every piece so you can identify all of it when it comes time to put things back together. Take a lot of pictures as it will help you remember how things reassemble and you won't feel stupid asking why "this doesn't fit". Clean everything, order a bolt kit from Z-1 Enterprises that replaces the old crappy screws with new stainless steel allen head bolts. Very cheap. Buy Suzuki parts when available. Once you start doing this it is addictive.

[Hakamisu]

The original R/R fed the positive back into harness (so it could power the bike needs with any surplus going to battery)- some PO got befuddled with the Shindengen R/R upgrade and went direct to battery (or so it seems from your pics). As Steve said, you need a 25 amp fuse for this approach; a simple inline fuse is fine- no need for circuit breaker. On my my bike, I split the hot feed from the R/R- I connect to harness and have a 20 amp inline fuse direct to battery positive as backup.

As I am going to be doing a wire harness clean up/rebuild I will probably work it into the new harness instead of running it straight to battery.

[Hakamisu]

I am going to comment on your first post about the tear down. I have done many and the best advise I can give is that you bag and tag every piece so you can identify all of it when it comes time to put things back together. Take a lot of pictures as it will help you remember how things reassemble and you won't feel stupid asking why "this doesn't fit". Clean everything, order a bolt kit from Z-1 Enterprises that replaces the old crappy screws with new stainless steel allen head bolts. Very cheap. Buy Suzuki parts when available. Once you start doing this it is addictive.

Thanks for the sound advice. As I am (was) an aircraft mechanic, I understand the bagging and tagging method. Unfortunately I didn't realise a lot of what the PO did with the Harness until I disconnected everything and started to remove it (Should have known better). Will be taking way more pictures with my good camera from now on.

I am not going to be re-installing some stuff though, so it is going in a "refurb and resell" pile (if I can ever find time to get to it).

Also, thanks for the info on the bolt kit, I was definitely going to go down to the Fastener place in town and start going to work. You probably saved me at least a whole wasted day (and money), Thanks.

[Steve]

Also, thanks for the info on the bolt kit, I was definitely going to go down to the Fastener place in town and start going to work. You probably saved me at least a whole wasted day (and money), Thanks.

In the long run, ordering the kit from Z1 will be much cheaper.

They already have all the bolts you need, in the sizes that you need. If you go to "the fastener place" don't forget to factor in the valure of your time travelling, then searching for all the sizes that you need, as well as waiting for the parts they don't have in stock. One simple call to Z1, and your bolt kit will be in your mailbox in about three days.

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[Hakamisu]

Just some clarification. The bolt kit, was it only for the engine? Or is there a whole bike kit that I just can't seem to find?

[Hakamisu]

Well, It's been too long (as far as I'm concerned) for an update, but here it is. Sometimes having a life can be unproductive. I am thankful though, I was suppose to have traveled to Eureka, NU, but things have been delayed so here we go.


So I was able to remove the exhaust, carbs and foot pedals/brackets.

A nice pic of why I'll need to to change the exhaust gaskets.


So, I've been itching to get this bike done sooner then later and maybe hold off doing the engine. As you'll see in these next couple of pictures, not going to happen.






Here she is so far.

[Kiwi Canuck]

Clean that engine reallly well be fore you are tempted to pull it apart.

Simple Green worked well for me and a few stiff nylon or brass brushes and elbow grease.

[Good Times]

Yep. Put on a simple green clinic. I cleaned mine after I pulled the motor. I am having flashbacks to my build after looking at your pictures.

Take your time. Do it right. Ask a lot of questions on the forum. Take a break and walk away from it when you get frustrated. Get OEM gaskets and parts when you can. (although I used Real Gaskets on my breather cover and valve cover).

Feel free to peruse my thread and learn from my mistakes.

Good luck and have fun.

When you're finished you'll love the result.

[Hakamisu]

Kiwi Canuck and Good Times,

Thanks for the insight. I was lucky enough to have a friend that has a huge jug of Simple Green in his garage and has never used it (Now belongs to me). I'll have to go buy a nylon brush now and get to work.

Oh, on another note. One of my co-workers is introducing me to a guy that is going to Sand Blast, Prime and Re-paint my bike for me for a couple of cases of beer. He's also going to teach me as he does it. Man I love my job.

[Hakamisu]

Hey guys,

Could someone tell me if I remove the TACHOMETER DRIVE GEAR and cap the hole, will that mess anything up? Like balance or vibration? Would it just be easier to cap the Drive Gear itself?

And has anyone replaced the caps for the forks with non-valve caps and if so where could I get some? I am going to be doing the progressive spring upgrade and am trying to clean up the triple.

[Hakamisu]

So, I have been shopping, and building up my wish list. Which brought me to the issue with my seat pan. (I will post pictures of it tonight). It is rusted pretty bad. Especially right where one of the mounting pads is supposed to go (that's right, no pad). Now, I have found more seat covers for this bike than I could possible imagine, but finding a seat is quite hard.

So, I decided to make my own... well with some help from my metal bashing friend. And then I figured, if I was going to change the seat, why not more. Well, here is some of my inspiration (One of my co-workers/friends introduced me to this site)

http://www.bikeexif.com/suzuki-gn400

http://www.bikeexif.com/honda-cafe-racer-2

http://www.bikeexif.com/1979-yamaha-sr500

http://www.bikeexif.com/honda-xr600

http://www.bikeexif.com/custom-honda-nx650

So, What do you guys think?

[eil]

Hey guys,

Could someone tell me if I remove the TACHOMETER DRIVE GEAR and cap the hole, will that mess anything up? Like balance or vibration? Would it just be easier to cap the Drive Gear itself?

Can't comment on the other stuff, but yes, you can remove the tach drive gear and plug the hole without any issues. (Except for not having a tachometer afterward.)