GS1000G Top End rebuild going well?

[rippledub]

Hi, my name is Mark, some of you may recognize my forum name, rippledub. I have posted some questions, but never started a project thread, which I now regret. Nevertheless I have received a lot of help from some friendly folks around here.

I bought a nice GS1000G back in February. No missing parts, good exhaust, tight air cleaner box, no rust or corrosion to speak of. Full Fairing and travel boxes. You can see pics in my photo album.

I ordered a new windshield, recovered the seat (sewed my own cover) and it was running like a top! Started at the first touch of the starter, idled great, and ran like a dream.

Only problem was it had some oil leaks. Tach cable at head, timing chain tensioner, A little bit around half moons, and was definitely leaking from main gaskets in the head. I realized the o-rings, seals, and gaskets were tired and brittle, and decided to take it apart and replace every o-ring, seal, and gasket I could.

Right after I took it apart, I landed a new job in Santa Fe, NM. I was living in Albuquerque, so that meant I had to move. I left the bike in pieces in my folks garage, and have been coming back down to work on it every chance I get. Pain in the butt!

However, everything has gone reasonably well, and It is all back together! This morning I put some gas in it, and it started up. I was able to ride it around the neighborhood, but it is a bit rough and not idling very well, and dies if I don't mess with the choke and throttle.

This is the first time I have ever done anything like this, so I don't know where to start in order to smooth it out. I know I need to get the carbs balanced, but until it will idle, I can't do this. I have been reading lots of threads over the last few months, but right now my brain is overloaded and mushy. I can't seem to get a clear idea about where to start.

I anyone would like to mentor me a bit here troubleshooting, and figuring out the proper sequencing for tuning this bike up, I would be most appreciative!

Valves clearances are adjusted, I didn't do anything to my carbs other than take them off and then re-connect them. I know it would be a good idea to clean them out, but I figured since it was running so good before, maybe I could get away with putting this off until winter. I installed new boots between carbs and cylinder head, and, like I said, every seal, o-ring and gasket I could. I replaced the speedo cable, tach cable, throttle cable. New clutch springs. Cleaned and oiled filter. New OEM fuel petcock. Lapped the valves. Got a new/old speedo/tach assembly from another gs member. cleaned and repacked steering tube bearings. Cleaned speedo gear assembly in front wheel. Let's see, probably some other things, but I can't think of them off the top of my head right now.

Hoping to get this bike running smooth enough to ride it back up to Santa Fe tomorrow, so I can work on it at my leisure without having to ride the train down here to Albuquerque. Any ideas?

[rippledub]

I want to combine a couple threads here to simplify.

In another thread I have been discussing this with Agemax.
So to update this thread . . .

I mentioned that it had started again after going to Prime on petcock, but then died again. Agemax suggested I put a gas line on petcock running into a bucket to make sure fuel is flowing when on Prime . . . . yes it is.

Opened each drain plug on float bowls . . . fuel came out of every one. So fuel to carb, check.

I had wondered if I had put too much oil on filter element, since I had never done this before, (starving it for air) so Agemax suggested I take filter off to see if there is a difference. No difference.

I had it on my trickle charge while I ate lunch since I was using the starter so much. I tried to start it, and once again it started, ran uneven, I played with choke to maintain, and then it died. Then wouldn't start again. Repeat of this morning, minus the ride around the neighborhood.
Seems to be able to start, but then dies and will not start again for a while.

One thing I noticed. this last time it only ran for a very short time, (couple minutes at most, maybe one) but when I touched the exhaust pipes to make sure all the cylinders were firing, they were extremely hot already. Is that too soon for it to get that hot? I'm talking burn your skin, sizzle water hot. I'm fishing here, but I figure anything could be a clue.

So what I know;
Must be getting Fuel/air/spark since it will run for short periods.
Seems to be getting hot quickly?
Starts, dies, won't start for awhile

[Agemax]

i have lost track now, lol. have you stripped and cleaned your carbs yet. if so have you checked and set the float heights? this would cause the engine to cut out regularly if the floats are set to high (= fuel level in bowls too low.). this would also cause the bike to run very lean which would cause your very hot headers.

remove each spark plug and see what colour they are reading........

[Agemax]

ok i just read a bit more, you say the bike runs better (sort of) on choke, this again will indicate a lean mixture. as you say the bike has been sat for a while the fuel in the bowls could have gone bad and gummed up the jets and float needles, causing them to stick or not operate correctly.

you really need to pull them off and give them a thorough cleaning......

[rippledub]

Carb rebuild here I come? How crazy is this process?
I did check the #1 and #4 plugs, (easy to get to) and they were grey and dry. This would indicate lean as well?

[Agemax]

Carb rebuild here I come? How crazy is this process?
I did check the #1 and #4 plugs, (easy to get to) and they were grey and dry. This would indicate lean as well?

grey is not good, dry indicates lack of fuel, especially with all the cranking over you have been doing without it starting.......