1980 GS1000S Reluctant Rebuild

[Frank Z.]

OK, here's a bit of info re intake boots that may clear up some confusion... or even add to it:
According to Eric (via email), apparently OEM intake boots do have a proper up/down orientation, albeit very slight; Nessism also mentioned this anomaly in a previous post here. If one was working with aftermarket boots, there is a chance that they weren't manufactured with this minute "wedge" shape. I dunno.

Interesting enough, the fiche illustrates part #13110-49010 as being one in the same; no left/rights, up/downs... just 4 identical buggers used in assembly. I am told that there should be some type of factory indexing to help with orientation Next time i have the uncontrollable urge to tear into my carbs, will flip boots around to see if anything moves.

[Nessism]

The misalignment at the airbox mount is (unfortunately) perfectly normal. As cowboy (Scott) mentions, insert the carbs into the airbox boots and tighten the clamps before you try to lift up on the airbox and get the screws in there. Some force will likely be needed.

[Frank Z.]

I'm knackered as I must have taken 2-3 hours just to finish getting the exhausts on tonight. I put them on and took them off about 3 times until I realised that the header pipes for 1 and 4 are handed, who knew? and I had them on the wrong side and struggled for an hour trying to get the left pipe to fit on the right side. Once I got that sorted I still needed to get the bolts aligned at the back and they did not line up without a big of leverage.

Seems strange that they didn't just drop straight on as they supposedly came off this bike.

Don't feel alone here, Kiwi. Tried the same sequence when fitting my exhausts; even had #4 down tube buried against a blessed frame bolt until i shot Ness a PM... and he quickly set me in the proper right/left direction.

Question: are your exhausts stamped "GS100S"? Reason i ask is that i had to egg out the hanger holes on a set of '80 L pipes to get adequate align-age, and L pipes are purported to be same as S pipes of the same year... minus a couple indents on the cans.

[Kiwi Canuck]

Don't feel alone here, Kiwi. Tried the same sequence when fitting my exhausts; even had #4 down tube buried against a blessed frame bolt until i shot Ness a PM... and he quickly set me in the proper right/left direction.

Question: are your exhausts stamped "GS100S"? Reason i ask is that i had to egg out the hanger holes on a set of '80 L pipes to get adequate align-age, and L pipes are purported to be same as S pipes of the same year... minus a couple indents on the cans.

Yes, pipes are stamped GS100S (thought you made a typo until I checked mine)

[Kiwi Canuck]

The misalignment at the airbox mount is (unfortunately) perfectly normal. As cowboy (Scott) mentions, insert the carbs into the airbox boots and tighten the clamps before you try to lift up on the airbox and get the screws in there. Some force will likely be needed.

Thanks Ed, "perfectly normal" is what I needed to hear, and yes it needs a fair amount of effort to lift them up that 1/2" even with the front boot clamps still loose.

Rob, I agree, once I get the rear clamps to hold it should be fine it just puzzled me that it was so far out and I thought I had something in barse ackwards.

[Kiwi Canuck]

OK, here's a bit of info re intake boots that may clear up some confusion... or even add to it:
According to Eric (via email), apparently OEM intake boots do have a proper up/down orientation, albeit very slight; Nessism also mentioned this anomaly in a previous post here. If one was working with aftermarket boots, there is a chance that they weren't manufactured with this minute "wedge" shape. I dunno.

Interesting enough, the fiche illustrates part #13110-49010 as being one in the same; no left/rights, up/downs... just 4 identical buggers used in assembly. I am told that there should be some type of factory indexing to help with orientation Next time i have the uncontrollable urge to tear into my carbs, will flip boots around to see if anything moves.

The only marking on the intake boots is an (A1) in a circle on the front edge of the boot, no arrows or anything else, are these factory or after market units?

[Kiwi Canuck]

Started her for the first time

Well I finally fired her up this morning, and she ran pretty well for 2-3 minutes then I shut her down.

I had tried last weekend but I had a few issues, starter button would not engage, main 15amp fuse was getting very hot, (maybe from cranking) the fuel cock leaked (I always forget to buy the special washers to mount the fuel cock) and I had a minor pin hole leak in the tank.
I went through all the electrical connections and double checked the wiring from the clutch side disconnect switch, by passed that, and sprayed all the connections with electrical cleaner again. Got the starter button working.

Got some Suzuki oring washers for the petcock and used a tiny dab of JB Weld on the outside of the pin hole leak, let it setup for 48hrs and it worked like a charm.
I will need to line the tank, it came with a nasty liner which I removed and had a friend Ross, (Galactica) help with the tank de-rusting and the tank appeared to be OK, but after putting in some fuel and sitting for 2 months it now decided to spring a leak.
I've done some research and it seems the 2 options most recommended are Caswells or Por-15, I think I will go with Caswells clear, unless I find something that would have me change my mind.

Well that is very satisfying to finally hear that engine run, after all, that was the first time I have taken a bike down to the frame and split the engine cases to replace the crank. Very happy

[Charlie G]

Very good aside from the leaking tank. It's comforting to me that the crank is working for you. I've never split the cases on one of these bikes and I hope I never have to. Cheers!

cg

[Kiwi Canuck]

Very good aside from the leaking tank. It's comforting to me that the crank is working for you. I've never split the cases on one of these bikes and I hope I never have to. Cheers!

cg

Except when you split the cases to remove the crank you sent me

[Charlie G]

Except when you split the cases to remove the crank you sent me

ahhh yes! That was a learning experence and will only make it eaiser if and when I have to do it. Is is nice to have a trial run.

cg

[GateKeeper]

Sorry to bring up the boot issue, I am sure you have it already completed and the carbs in place and all that....

but there is a proper orientation of the boots to the air box, on the air box I believe there are two raised nibs and on the boots there is one and once aligned the boot nib in between the 2 nibs of the airbox, I hope that makes sense....

should look something like this

|.|
.|

I remember seeing this on my bike when I was putting it all back together....

edit: disregard the dots in the diagram I tried to do, if I don't have them there the spacing is off, but you can hopefully see what I mean the sing line should be inbetween the 2 outside lines...

[Kiwi Canuck]

Sorry to bring up the boot issue, I am sure you have it already completed and the carbs in place and all that....

but there is a proper orientation of the boots to the air box, on the air box I believe there are two raised nibs and on the boots there is one and once aligned the boot nib in between the 2 nibs of the airbox, I hope that makes sense....

should look something like this

| |
|

I remember seeing this on my bike when I was putting it all back together....

Gate Keeper, thanks for the input on this, I will look to see if mine have those nubs next time I have them apart, which will be in the next few weeks.
I resolved the issue for now by refurbishing the old clamps and managed to salvage 2 of them and used them on carbs 1 & 4 and it allowed me to pull the air box into place without the boots slipping off. They are a bit mangled but will work for now, until I get the new GS1000GL ones.

[Kiwi Canuck]

Next on the list

I have been getting ready to tackle the electrical system on the bike by studying the wiring diagrams in the manual and reading the 1980 GS1000T Supplement on BassCliff's site, which has great info on the electrical charging system, and a nice piece on the carbs as well.

I intend to add a few relays and do the wiring mods recommended in the Stator Papers.

I have been lying awake at night thinking about wiring diagrams and tracing the wiring paths in my head, tell me, does this eventually go away?

When I run the bike for more than 2-3 mins the green/white wire from the stator gets really warm. (that's the one that does the loop up to the handle bar switch and back on the white/red. Will need to take care of that.

I will need to get the air box installed and the lid sealed and take care of syncing the carbs so the bike runs better off choke before I start trouble shooting the wiring issues. I can hear air sucking in and it's popping a bit from the exhaust.
I think the exhaust pipes are leaking from the couplings, as I get a fine dusting of rust under the bike right around the center stand, (pipes have been in storage for 32 years) may have to order new connector gaskets, at $20 each I was hoping to use the old ones, but at least they are available.

Ok back to the real world, time to get thinking about getting into the office.

[Charlie G]

No, they don't go away. Sounds like your in the early stages of the Motodaydreamitis syndrome. Some of the known symptoms include: inability to sleep, ability to gentaly drift off to sleep, lack of focus with work related tasks, empty wallet, leaning left or right with clasped hands at shoulder level, bugs in teeth, dirty finger nails .........ect.

[althomas101]

jB Weld is not fuel resistant. That pinhole will eventually end up leaking and one morning you will go into the garage and have a major gas spill. Ask me how I know ;-)
There is a specific type of epoxy that is fuel impervoius I can't recall the name but the caswell tank liner uses it.