Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

GS1100G Road Runner Project

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • cowboyup3371
    replied
    I might be mistaken but I believe you want your multimeter in DC volts for that test.

    Leave a comment:


  • londonboards
    replied
    Testing the Rectifier / Regulator with a Multimeter

    So I'm following the Stator Papers testing procedure. I'm trying to determine if my charging problems are as a result of a faulty Regulator / Rectifier. I'm here:





    I have the piece of kit off the bike and I am using a multimeter in the Diode Test position:

    I get the same reading connecting the red multimeter lead to the red terminal and testing the three yellows.







    Now the testing papers suggest that a positive result should produce a reading of 1.5v or better. What is a reading of 631? Is this reading .631 volts and and is the regulator / rectifier therefore below the 1v service spec? Is it functioning or not?
    Last edited by londonboards; 04-10-2014, 12:27 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • eil
    replied
    Testing the stator/RR on the bike is really easy. If you disconnect the stator legs and measure the voltage at each pair (so, 3 measurements), you should get better than 75 volts AC at 5000 RPM. If so, the stator is good. Connect the stator back up and check the DC voltage at the battery at 5000 RPM. You should get between 14 and 15.5 volts DC. If you don't, your R/R is bad.

    The R/R is more likely to die than the stator. Of course, checking to make sure all of the electrical connections are good and solid is a prerequisite to all this.

    Leave a comment:


  • JTGS850GL
    replied
    Make sure that none of the windings are shorted to to ground as well as checking between each wire. There should be an open between any of the wires coming from the stator and ground.

    Leave a comment:


  • tatu
    replied
    Maybe this will help you with some ideas if you need to replace the reg/rec if you need to. we can soon fix this.

    Leave a comment:


  • londonboards
    replied
    Originally posted by hampshirehog View Post
    Did you check you had a good earth to the electrics plate Richard? I've seen a good few GSs that are dead on the starter button, pulled off the side panel and wiggled that plate and they start.
    That has got to me my next step. Go through the connections one by one. And test the regulator/rectifier.

    I hate electrics. Just want to do spannering!

    Greetings

    Leave a comment:


  • hampshirehog
    replied
    Did you check you had a good earth to the electrics plate Richard? I've seen a good few GSs that are dead on the starter button, pulled off the side panel and wiggled that plate and they start.

    Leave a comment:


  • londonboards
    replied
    Visit to the Stator Paper Pages

    I started on the Stator Tests (click to enlarge):




    All I could get on this set of tests was a steady 13.4 volts when engine off and the same when it ran - whatever revs it was at. So I went onto section B of the Stator Tests:



    I am not a proficient multi-meter user (much prefer the old ones with a gauge) so I get confused with settings, which holes to plug the leads in, which is + and which is - and the difference between a reading of 1 and a reading of -1. I couldn't get any readings to work on this test so I immediately assumed the stator was toast.

    I am privileged to own 2 Suzuki GS1100Gs so my reasoning went that I could at least switch stators or use the other one as a test rig. So I took them both out of their motors.



    The one on the right is original (I know because I have had the bike since new) and the one on the left looks like it has a different (replacement?) type of stator installed.





    And I did all the tests again. Testing both of them in succession.



    Having not got readings like this whilst the suspect stator was on the bike, I was surprised to find that all the readings were around 0.9 which is well within the prescribed range 0.5 to 2 ohms. Don't know why it wasn't looking like that when it was on the bike. Perhaps I had the wrong multi-meter setting or I wasn't getting a good connection.

    So now it looks like the stator is OK. I would still like to see the thing kick out some volts when it was running to completely convince me though. Before I put it back in I will move onto the regulator/rectifier.

    Leave a comment:


  • londonboards
    replied
    Ride to Church and Oh No Not Charging!

    It was a lovely day on Sunday. Temperatures up to 16 or 17 deg C. So the bike came out and we went for a spin in the lovely Kent (UK) countryside. I always wanted to stop and look at the church at Godmersham so I thought I would pay my respects.




    I was very lucky that this church was at the top of hill. After driving for an hour and stopping for 10 minutes, I went to start the bike and ..........

    SCREAM !!!

    The battery was almost dead. Oh no not the dreaded stator / regulator / rectifier problem. I managed to roll down the hill and start the bike before I hit the main road by putting it in 2nd gear and bumping it. And furthermore, I managed to get the 5 miles home without it cutting out on me.

    A huge feeling of dread engulfed me; I was finally going to have to read the Stator Papers. Anything electrical gives me a headache. This was not going to be very much fun.

    Leave a comment:


  • londonboards
    replied
    Still Got a Clutch Rattle

    So I'm going to switch this clutch basket with the one from my other GS1100G Restoration Project. This other bike we have had from new (1984) and we know that it has exactly 18,000 genuine miles on it. So the theory is that it can't possibly be as worn out as the one on this Road Runner project which has had a new speedo and I estimate has around 35,000 miles on it at least.

    Here they are side by side:



    Both have rattling springs (the heavier ones only) but the one on the left which is from Dad's bike (the Restoration Project) has about half the movement or rattle as the one from the Road Runner project. So if the springs are the cause of the noise, then it should be reduced by this switch.



    I have also bought a replacement rubber cushion which might also be a cause of noise. The old one is very hard and bent out of shape. This apparently reduces the rattle between the oil pump gear and the clutch basket (outer hub).



    I put it all back together. Torquing the hub nut with the bike in 5th gear, an 18 inch breaker bar and a rubber mallet:



    Reused the old tab washer in a section that was not previously bent as I am supposing that this clutch is going to have to come off again sometime soon:



    And the net result is; the noise is worse! Listen here:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=ItnewFLGX3c

    Greetings

    Leave a comment:


  • londonboards
    replied
    The Dangers of Salt

    Didn't realise what a disaster salt is to the unprotected pieces of metal on our lovely bikes. I think I have learned my lesson. After driving on salty roads and leaving the bike in a warm dry garage for 2 weeks it looked like this:







    Washing it all off just leaves the tarnished metal showing badly:





    I think this is a lesson for me. Either protect the metal with a paint or clear coat or wash it every time you take it out in the winter.

    Greetings
    Last edited by londonboards; 01-19-2014, 10:57 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Charlie G
    replied
    Beautiful pictures! I'm frozen in snow here.

    cg

    Leave a comment:


  • londonboards
    replied
    December Ride Out

    Before I do the clutch strip I decided on one more ride out before the winter really sets in.

    Went to meet the others at the Suzuki Owners Club - Kent Section monthly meet at the Blue and White Cafe.













    Leave a comment:


  • londonboards
    replied
    Clutch Still Rattling

    Did a complete overhaul of the cam chain tensioner and I can now rule that out as the noise culprit.

    So next job is a complete clutch strip down.

    Leave a comment:


  • Charlie G
    replied
    Originally posted by londonboards View Post
    Rattle around the clutch area is still pretty bad after the engine warms up so there are 2 possibilities (well probably more but 2 obvious ones):

    1. Cam chain thrashing about - tensioner seized / not working
    2. Clutch back plate springs rattling around.

    I took the cam chain tensioner off and cleaned it up today. I managed to do it with taking the carbs off. Bit fiddly but it can be done.

    The knurled knob on the tensioner was seized so I loosened it off and cleaned the whole thing up - thanks to bwringers tutorial. Put it all back and the noise is still there. At least I have eliminated something.

    Next job will be to switch clutches from my other GS1100G project and then get new springs installed on this one.

    Greetings
    I was meaning to ask if the PO had the tensioner set screw locked down so it wouldn't work. Be sure to let us (me) know what you find out about this rattle.

    cg

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X