GS1100G Road Runner Project

[londonboards]

tatu -well in so far as a replacement rectifier is required. Probably 2 - one for each bike. Although putting my Dad's rectifier on the GS1150ES shows it to be charging OK. The GS1150 arrived with no rectifier so I still need 2. Think I'll just go with 2nd hand for now.

Greetings

[Paul]

tatu -well in so far as a replacement rectifier is required. Probably 2 - one for each bike. Although putting my Dad's rectifier on the GS1150ES shows it to be charging OK. The GS1150 arrived with no rectifier so I still need 2. Think I'll just go with 2nd hand for now.

Greetings

I have a 2nd hand SH-532-12 if you want to try it, (6 wire) msg me on FB just in case I miss it on here


this one .... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/suzuki-g10...p2047675.l2557

[londonboards]

New Rectifier Installed

Got a new rectifier and tested it out as perfect. Put it on and tidied up some of the wiring including removing the stator headlamp loop and improving the grounding of the rectifier by wiring it directly to the battery (black lead only).

See: My GS Road Runner Blog - New Rectifier







And look, I do know what a nice battery box should look like. Don't have time to refurb this one. I just want to get back on the road. See:



Some of the wiring horror I encountered:



I will be back on the road any day now.

I'm off the Amsterdam in May so it best be ready.

Greetings

[Paul]

Ahhhh, so I guess that was your problem... good luck with the testing

[londonboards]

New Meter Readings

With the new rectifier installed I got some more meter readings:

http://youtu.be/JY5eqqbv_RQ

Greetings

[jsandidge]

Looks good

She looks like she's charging well!

[londonboards]

And here are the results:

My results are:

1). Key off: 12.78v
2). Key on: 12.18v (headlamp on) 12.32v (headlamp off)
3). At idle: 13.2v (at 1,100 rpm)
4). At 2,500 rpm: 13.83v
5). At 4,500 rpm: 14.05v
6). Key Off: 12.90v

These readings are all within prescribed ranges. And I therefore certify the bike as fixed for now.

Except I now have to fix the wiring that was burned up in the process.

Greetings

[londonboards]

And here is the wiring that needs fixing. How far up does the damage go?









Is this likely to be all the way up to the headlamp shell?

Those wiring diagrams are great but what I need is a wiring loom diagram which shows which cables are bundled together and where they end up.

Greetings

[tatu]

And here is the wiring that needs fixing. How far up does the damage go?

Is this likely to be all the way up to the headlamp shell?

Those wiring diagrams are great but what I need is a wiring loom diagram which shows which cables are bundled together and where they end up.

Greetings

The wire will have got hottest and burntest closest to the short so reducing in heat the further away you go so you might find a place where it isn't burned but best to assume it is and replace the whole piece.

[londonboards]

tatu - darn that means unwrapping the whole wiring loom right up to the headlamp shell - right?

Greetings

[Steve]

That test doesn't make any sense. It's saying to put the multimeter in the "diode test function" and then uses volts for expected readings? There are a few problems with this.

The diode test function on most meters is more of a continuity test... if there's "continuity" (typically defined as resistance below an arbitrary threshold) between the two test leads, then beep. Otherwise, be silent. My meter shows the readings in ohms (I believe yours does as well), but assuming that some meters show it in volts, there's the additional wrinkle that different meters use different batteries.

I am going to try to see if I can clarify this just a bit, even though you have resolved the R/R issue and moved on.

If you use your meter in the OHMS position to check a diode, you will get a reading of the resistance in the diode.
In one direction, you will get a reading. What that reading is, will depend on the specific composition of the diode, but will be consistent with other diodes of the same type. If you reverse the leads, you will get an "out of range" indication. Some meters show this with a "-1-", others with "-OL-", but it will not be a meaningful number.

If your meter has a DIODE FUNCTION, the reading that it gives you is in VOLTS.
That voltage is the 'breakdown voltage' of the diode. Much like the resistance test mentioned above, there will be a reading (probably just over half a volt) in one direction, and when the leads are reversed, there will be an 'out of range' indication.

The readings that you got earlier, which ranged from 620 to 670, were actually millivolt readings, meaning that they are 0.620 to 0.670 volts. Those are all within the range of "just over half a volt" and are consistent enough with each other to be valid readings. If you were to find one of 420, say, it would be highly suspect. You found some bad readings, and they confirm that the RECTIFIER portion of the device is, indeed, bad.

And, ... the fact that "different meters use different batteries" means absolutely NOTHING.
They are all going to have enough battery power to do their job, so type (or quantity) of batteries is totally irrelevant.

.

[Paul]

tatu - darn that means unwrapping the whole wiring loom right up to the headlamp shell - right?

Greetings

also gives you a chance to run a higher amp earth, and add a few extra grounds... pain but pays dividends in the future

[londonboards]

Steve - Brilliant synopsis - thank you for taking the time to write that. Clears it up completely.

Greetings

[Steve]

Steve - Brilliant synopsis - thank you for taking the time to write that. Clears it up completely.

Greetings

I'd like to say it was my pleasure. (Really, I'd like to. )

I do things like that because so many bike owners say "I hate electrics" or "electrical work is so confusing", but I find it rather easy.

Whenever I am trying to teach anybody something, I try to relate it to something that they already know, to make the association easier.

[londonboards]

Getting Ready for a Long Distance Ride

I wanted the bike to be more comfortable for a long road trip to Italy. It has rather short bars on (which I prefer to the original cow horn type) but the feet forward pegs were not right for me. So I bought a set of Raask rear-sets.

See My Blog GS1100G - Long Distance Mods

Raask used to be top notch but quality is pretty poor now.







I also put on some handlebar end weights to reduce vibration. The bonus was that I discovered that I now also had a cruise control.



Next up will be a small screen.

Greetings