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Well since my last post I have gone through the entire electrical system on the bike. I have to apologize for no photos. However in my defense I spent two days in on and off rain showers working on the electrical because I currently have no garage. So I was just trying to get it done without getting electrocuted and didn't think to much about taking pictures. I cleaned all connections, switches and grounds. Then soldered every crimp. Anyone looking for a cheap and very effective way of cleaning their connections and wires go to your nearest dollar store and buy the works toilet bowl cleaner. It's about a $1.50 a bottle and it works like a charm. Be very careful when using it. I have seen the toilet bowl smoke when the wife is using it to clean. It is not very skin friendly stuff. Most parts looked like new after 30 seconds of soaking in the cleaner, being dunked in water to neutralize the cleaner and then a quick blast of electrical cleaner to make them shine. Some of the more corroded connections required a little scrubbing with a brass cleaning brush.
I ran all neutrals to a single ground point on the frame then I ran a wire from that point to the negative post on the battery. I removed the bullet connectors between the stator and the R/R and the loop that runs up to the headlight. Then I soldered the stator wires to the R/R wires. All electrical connections were also coated in electrical grease. The bike now charges at 13.5 volts at idle and climbs to 14.4 volts around 2500 rpm and stays at that voltage even at 5000 rpm. Before I did all the clean up the voltage was dropping to 13.2 volts at 5000 rpm.
My voltage at the coils with the key on when I started was 9.9. Now it's 12 volts. When the bikes running its 14.4 volts. So the old girl is now charging just as good if not better than she did when she was new. Oh and if you plan on taking your ignition switch apart be very careful. Because if your unlucky like me and the parts don't stay in the top white plastic piece when you separate it from the bottom black piece with the wires you will be crawling all over the floor looking for four little springs and two ball bearing.
I also checked my valve clearances and they were all to tight. I have shims and gaskets on the way. Went for a 70 mile round trip to visit my grandparents grave out in the country and did some plug chops along the way and have discovered that the bike is a little on lean side with the 4to1 pipe and the uni air filter. So I have some bigger mains ordered and I've already picked up some washers from radio shack to adjust the needles. I still can't believe how well this bike ran with all the little things that were wrong with it. It's going to be as reliable as a tank once I'm done and sure to last me for many years to come.
The only other major problem I have to deal with now is the gas tank. I have to fix the leak it has from the PO riveting the emblem to the gas tank. Actually it more like a seep than a leak. It kind of sweats out from behind the emblem. I'm pretty sure that a tank sealer kit will sort that out. Oh I almost forgot I also have to get the suspension sorted. Then I am just going to ride the hell out of it until my house is done being remodeled. Then I will probably tear the bike down and start doing all the cosmetic work.
I would like to thank all the members that have put the time and hard work in to make it so easy to trouble shoot these wonderful bikes. This site is a real God send for any GS owner. Below is the only pic that I have taken recently of the bike and it's not even a good one sadly.
I ran all neutrals to a single ground point on the frame then I ran a wire from that point to the negative post on the battery. I removed the bullet connectors between the stator and the R/R and the loop that runs up to the headlight. Then I soldered the stator wires to the R/R wires. All electrical connections were also coated in electrical grease. The bike now charges at 13.5 volts at idle and climbs to 14.4 volts around 2500 rpm and stays at that voltage even at 5000 rpm. Before I did all the clean up the voltage was dropping to 13.2 volts at 5000 rpm.
My voltage at the coils with the key on when I started was 9.9. Now it's 12 volts. When the bikes running its 14.4 volts. So the old girl is now charging just as good if not better than she did when she was new. Oh and if you plan on taking your ignition switch apart be very careful. Because if your unlucky like me and the parts don't stay in the top white plastic piece when you separate it from the bottom black piece with the wires you will be crawling all over the floor looking for four little springs and two ball bearing.
I also checked my valve clearances and they were all to tight. I have shims and gaskets on the way. Went for a 70 mile round trip to visit my grandparents grave out in the country and did some plug chops along the way and have discovered that the bike is a little on lean side with the 4to1 pipe and the uni air filter. So I have some bigger mains ordered and I've already picked up some washers from radio shack to adjust the needles. I still can't believe how well this bike ran with all the little things that were wrong with it. It's going to be as reliable as a tank once I'm done and sure to last me for many years to come.
The only other major problem I have to deal with now is the gas tank. I have to fix the leak it has from the PO riveting the emblem to the gas tank. Actually it more like a seep than a leak. It kind of sweats out from behind the emblem. I'm pretty sure that a tank sealer kit will sort that out. Oh I almost forgot I also have to get the suspension sorted. Then I am just going to ride the hell out of it until my house is done being remodeled. Then I will probably tear the bike down and start doing all the cosmetic work.
I would like to thank all the members that have put the time and hard work in to make it so easy to trouble shoot these wonderful bikes. This site is a real God send for any GS owner. Below is the only pic that I have taken recently of the bike and it's not even a good one sadly.
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