Not bolts. Maybe I can fashion something to pass inspection but that's a tough one. I might have to go with an aftermarket tail/stop/plate light setup. We'll see. I'm still trying to crack it open, the phillips head screws are rust-welded in.
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1980 gs450 project, oh boy
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MLow
Epic. So it's a plate in there. #35727-44130
Not bolts. Maybe I can fashion something to pass inspection but that's a tough one. I might have to go with an aftermarket tail/stop/plate light setup. We'll see. I'm still trying to crack it open, the phillips head screws are rust-welded in.
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MLow
Ended up turning the back of the combo light half to pry out the metal plate, and squeeze in 3 bolts with washers.
It's holding pretty darn good. Bike passed inspection(which was silly fast). And I rode it to work and around town and it was just splendid. I was having to hold myself back because it has new tires but I really wanted to dive into corners and rev it out. But I managed to keep safe.
The inspection was like, a visual look at things quickly. Then he asked for my key and checked the headlight(high/low), stop light with both brakes individually(both switches have to work), horn, then he got on and played with the front brakes. When I say that I mean he rolled a little then held the front brake in. Did that a few times then gave me an odd look, looked at the disc. And he said something like "man i forget how far we've come in brakes". He recorded the odometer reading and...that was pretty much it. Later I asked what he meant about the brakes(after he put the sticker on) and he said it felt a little lacking. Said I should really look into it, clean the disc, change pads. That it should grip a bit more, but it wasn't dangerous at this point.
So I think i'll take his advice because well... He seemed a really honest dude and I think it was an honest suggestion as a rider not inspector.
Anyways, my vermont permanent registration should come in the mail soon. Then I won't be far off at all from a title and complete legal status.
Parts still missing off the bike are rear fender and turn signals(and relay). So I think over time as I get a little more money I will tackle those things. But for now, I mean she's pretty much done....
I'll update this thread with pics of her "complete" when I get her washed off tomorrow. Kind of like completing the story kinda with pretty pictures. And yes, everyone at work was admiring her. The motorcycle inspector urged me to take her to the vintage bike rally here when it comes.(hehe) I don't really think it's a vintage bike but it certainly seems to be getting positive attentions from all kinds not even bike people.(from work) About how just darn neat and classic it looks. And it's a joy to ride so we all win. Thanks guys for all the help and the suggestions.
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Good news, glad to hear it!
As for the front brake, I upgraded to a braided steel line and rebuilt the caliper. My master cylinder was stuffed so I got a new one but you should be able to rebuild yours if necessary.
If it still has the original rubber hose up front, then that's going to be the main source of your issues. Suzuki say replace them every 2 years...1982 GS450E - The Wee Beastie
1984 GSX750S Katana 7/11 - Kit Kat - BOTM May 2020
sigpic
450 Refresh thread: https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-GS450-Refresh
Katana 7/11 thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...84-Katana-7-11
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MLow
I tested it a couple times and it seemed safe. Didn't lock though. I'm guessing that it's safer if I can make it lock. But at the same time less safe...if you know what I'm getting at.
I'll clean the disc.. That's something I didn't do. I flushed the fluid. Maybe then I'll get something(a kit?) to rebuild it, and new pads. Suppose next step would be a new line?
As is it grabs quite good, not as good as my ninja but close. I just assumed it was the single caliper making it less grabby. But I will take all the advice I can get. If you think it should grip more then I'll put some money aside next paycheck in a week.
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If it's got a rubber hose on there, then that should be the very first thing to replace.
No way to know if it's 30 years old or not but there's a good chance it is and it will be stuffed. The rubber hoses expand under pressure and will compromise your braking ability. A new braided steel line will not do that and will make a good improvement.
If the master cylinder and caliper are ok then no need to rebuilt them, just a good flush should have sorted them out.1982 GS450E - The Wee Beastie
1984 GSX750S Katana 7/11 - Kit Kat - BOTM May 2020
sigpic
450 Refresh thread: https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-GS450-Refresh
Katana 7/11 thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...84-Katana-7-11
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jeffasaurus2
Congrats on having everything back together, and, somewhat, legal!
My two cents, Stainless Lines made a world of difference on my 450. Rebuilt the caliper at the same time so no idea how much of an impact that made in conjunction with the lines, but they were noticeable together.
I've recently upgraded to the saltymonk disc conversion. Only one side, but it makes an enormous difference! The newer rotor and twin-pot caliper make a noticeable difference over stock braking.
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MLow
Alright so it is rubber hose, so I will look into that as a safety thing to prioritize on replacing.
Something I did notice, maybe it was a tad windy today but not very. Was that at 50+mph the handlebars seems to have a little bit of a wiggle from time to time. Mostly when accelerating. So lets say I get out of the merge lane and give it a bit of gas. The front does a little wiggle. Not too terrifying but something I was thinking about nonetheless. It was certainly enough to make me not want to continue accelerating for fear of it developing into a tank slapper or something. Goes away on deceleration.
Also I gave the brakes a pretty good test when a light changed to yellow unexpectedly. So "they work", in that they certainly applied enough force for my to think I might start skidding soon. But all was well, just a bit of a test I guess.
All in all it's good stuff but I figured I'd bring up the wobble/wallow thing. I have noticed that on my ninja the last time I rode it a few days ago. It was a lot colder that day than normal, like 20 degrees colder than normal, and the back had a good amount of wallow. Which stayed for the whole ride pretty much. Give it a bit of gas and it gets worse. Just a very rubbery not planted feeling in the rear. Now with the GS it kind of feels the same but in the front .
I am starting to think that I am cursed lol. I am a lightweight guy and I have my suspicions that it is preload setting wrong on both bikes. However I am not sure how to adjust forks for preload....
Finally I have noticed that the left side of the engine is noticeably cooler than the right. The fins, the pipe. Cool enough to almost rest my hand on. While the right is blisteringly hot. My first thought goes to carb sync. But I looked and kind of am confused about how to do that on this bike.
Thanks all for the suggestions, I'll look into doing a steel braided line, cleaning the disc, replacing pads, flushing again. Also I will do some research on the saltymonk disc conversion. But I feel like they are already pretty good. Still can't hurt if it's not an expensive mod to ensure I have the best tools to save my life one day, if not the ability :P. I have made my ninja's rear skid a few times.
I am still waiting on the permanent registration from vermont, then I will go try to get the title/plate for Texas.
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Zahg
Originally posted by MLow View PostFinally I have noticed that the left side of the engine is noticeably cooler than the right. The fins, the pipe. Cool enough to almost rest my hand on. While the right is blisteringly hot. My first thought goes to carb sync. But I looked and kind of am confused about how to do that on this bike.
I forgot on my first go-through and also had my left cylinder only firing half the time if that... Had to pull the carbs again and clean them out with carb spray, a tooth brush, and q-tips. Also put some seafoam into the tank to help that extra bit. :-p
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MLow
Seafoam, have it sitting in the garage and didn't even think of that. Yes I completely disassembled the carbs and soaked everything tiny and metal overnight. Blasted everything, all the nooks and crannies, channels. Those carbs are damn near spotless. Set the float heights, made sure the jet sizes were stock.
So really i'm just hoping it's a sync thing. I mean my ninja was really off sync bad and it took like 30 minutes to warm up it was crazy. Synced the carbs and bam, sucker heats up in 2 minutes. I'm having that same issues with warming up taking a while. IE; can't take choke off for like 5 minutes. Once it's warm it's good to go though. Doesn't have anything funny going on with throttle, hanging, bogging, or anything like that. It is a slight bit rough, but again, not any worse than my ninja in low rpm(also a side-by-side twin) when it was out of sync.
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Originally posted by jeffasaurus2 View PostFrom what I understand this isn't uncommon.
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MLow
I have a manometer setup. I just have no idea where to hook it up :S. The one side being cooler than the other is what has me thinking it's a sync issue.
Do I like, have to get some fittings or something to hook it up? I don't understand.
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MLow
Originally posted by tkent02 View PostNot uncommon, but probably not right. It is probably a bit lean on the pilot circuits. How does it start from cold with no choke in say 80 degree weather?
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You will need a pair of nipples to hook the manometer up, they need to be M5 threaded.
Look just in front of the intake boots where they bolt into the head and you will see a Phillips head screw each side with a little gasket under it. They're the ports you need to use for the manometer.1982 GS450E - The Wee Beastie
1984 GSX750S Katana 7/11 - Kit Kat - BOTM May 2020
sigpic
450 Refresh thread: https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-GS450-Refresh
Katana 7/11 thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...84-Katana-7-11
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MLow
Originally posted by pete View PostYou will need a pair of nipples to hook the manometer up, they need to be M5 threaded.
Look just in front of the intake boots where they bolt into the head and you will see a Phillips head screw each side with a little gasket under it. They're the ports you need to use for the manometer.
My stop in 50ft or so going 40 tested the brakes pretty good I think but upgrades are certainly high on the list. And this isn't going to be my daily ride I don't think. So I can afford to wait for parts and just not ride as much. All in all I'm a grand down, but I think I'm ahead of the curve for what it's worth. Which is nice place to be.
As things get colder there will be a point for a month or so I can't muscle through the cold. However silly that sounds. Riding on the highway to work and back in 40 degrees each day wears on me and I have to give up at some point. The tires will get broken in before winter steals my ride time away I hope at least.
The money flow right now does not allow me to do these things right now, so I enjoyed it while it lasted but maybe in a few weeks I'll ramp back up to upgrades and then a few more weeks of riding then it will be too cold heh.
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