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1979 GS1000E Project
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HaggisHombre
I have removed the carbs. You are all correct these must have been added it turns out the cable for the choke was not doing anything. I am thinking about mounting the engine on an engine stand just using the rear engine mounts. Has anyone done this or know if they are strong enough to support the engine?
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Originally posted by HaggisHombre View PostI have removed the carbs. You are all correct these must have been added it turns out the cable for the choke was not doing anything. I am thinking about mounting the engine on an engine stand just using the rear engine mounts. Has anyone done this or know if they are strong enough to support the engine?
Also, on the '79 there's an extra bolt securing the cylinder to the head,
in between the 2nd and 3rd headers. My '79 has it all built up but never machined for one, no bolt, probably because of it's early manufacture date, Aug 78.
A couple of other tell tale clues, the oil filter cover on the '79 doesn't have a drain bolt like the '78 did. I liked the drain bolt, so I put a '78 one on mine.
And, the front brakes are are different between the E and C (base) model.
The E having dual front brakes, I think the pads are smaller and the master cylinder different on the E. The wheels and tires sizes are also different between the C (base) and E model.
Also, your seat should be "stepped" a rise up for the passenger.
This is my little E,
it's far from perfect, but the real beauty is in the ride!
sigpic
Steve
"The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
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'79 GS1000EN
'82 GS1100EZ
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HaggisHombre
I have included a picture of the area between exhaust port 3 and 4. I don't think this seat is raised at the back. I am getting ready to pull the engine and put it on an engine stand. Do you have the specs of those bolts you are using to hold the exhaust system on (at the exhaust port)? I have included a picture of the front sprocket area, is it normally this messy in there? Your bike looks very cool, nice job. We have the same paint. I guess my bike is not an E.
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HaggisHombre
I took the picture of the area between exhaust port 3 and 4 from the bottom. There is no bolt on top.
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Originally posted by HaggisHombre View PostI have included a picture of the area between exhaust port 3 and 4. I don't think this seat is raised at the back. I am getting ready to pull the engine and put it on an engine stand. Do you have the specs of those bolts you are using to hold the exhaust system on (at the exhaust port)? I have included a picture of the front sprocket area, is it normally this messy in there? Your bike looks very cool, nice job. We have the same paint. I guess my bike is not an E.
Oooh, I don't have the spec's for the header bolts. I got those in a kit for a conversion kit from Phillips screws to allen screws and those were the only ones I used. When you do replace them use a copper based anti-seize, and new header gaskets.
Header flange bolt, number 5, somehow there's a way to look at the part number and determine the size. Maybe someone else will chime in.
Yes, the area around the front sprocket usually looks crappy, messy, yours looks rather clean I think.
You have the flat seat, not the E stepped seat. I and most others like the flat seat, so I think you should be happy about that.
You may have an early model '79 like mine that didn't have that extra bolt.
E-bay has seat covers for that seat by the way.
I recovered mine.
Pit Replica is the company.sigpic
Steve
"The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
_________________
'79 GS1000EN
'82 GS1100EZ
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HaggisHombre
I have the seat cover, bought a couple of years ago. I just checked it and it is for the straight version. I got lucky there I did not intentionally order that. Time to order a gasket kit and some other necessities. Thanks for all the info by the way.
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Originally posted by sedelen View PostI didn't think the choke lever on the carb and the pull knob for the choke on the handlebar mount could both be functional.
Also, on the '79 there's an extra bolt securing the cylinder to the head,
in between the 2nd and 3rd headers. My '79 has it all built up but never machined for one, no bolt, probably because of it's early manufacture date, Aug 78.
A couple of other tell tale clues, the oil filter cover on the '79 doesn't have a drain bolt like the '78 did. I liked the drain bolt, so I put a '78 one on mine.
And, the front brakes are are different between the E and C (base) model.
The E having dual front brakes, I think the pads are smaller and the master cylinder different on the E. The wheels and tires sizes are also different between the C (base) and E model.
Also, your seat should be "stepped" a rise up for the passenger.
This is my little E,
it's far from perfect, but the real beauty is in the ride!
Far from perfect? Its breathtaking... and a real credit to you.sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.
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Originally posted by HaggisHombre View PostSounds like this bike has some history, any disadvantage or advantage to the 78 Carbs. Also is there a way to figure out when it was built from the number on the frame? I am really looking forward to this project. I already have a bunch of goodies that I bought 2 years back. I like the spokes perhaps black spokes and black rims, but it may be cheaper to replace them with the cast wheels.
The rims should buff out nicely, best time to do it is when they're bare
I've got a set of cast wheels around here somewhere, if you're interested1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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HaggisHombre
Hi Big T I like the idea of having spokes. However I will keep you in mind in case I change my mind. I am thinking, like you said to buff the rims t and replace the spokes with black ones. I think the current spokes are salvageable but I doubt they could ever look like new spokes.
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I went to stainless spokes on my 78 - spendy but worthwhile1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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HaggisHombre
Any advice on where to buy a full gasket kit? Also I need to buy gaskets for the carb bowls. I have the o rings already for a rebuild. Getting ready to pull the engine. I plan on putting it on an engine stand if I am successful I will post pictures. I am hoping to have the top end torn down by the end of this weekend.
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Originally posted by HaggisHombre View PostAny advice on where to buy a full gasket kit? Also I need to buy gaskets for the carb bowls. I have the o rings already for a rebuild. Getting ready to pull the engine. I plan on putting it on an engine stand if I am successful I will post pictures. I am hoping to have the top end torn down by the end of this weekend.
2018 Honda Africa Twin AS
2013 DR 650 Grey, sold 1981 GS 650E Silver,
1980 GS1000ST Blue & White, X2
2012 DL650 Vstrom Foxy Orange, in storage
1981 CT110 X2 "Postie Bikes" Gone to a New Home.
2002 BMW 1150 GS Blue & White - Sold
1975 BMW R90/6 Black - Sold 1984 GS1150EF Sold
1982 BMW R100 Africa trip, Stolen - Recovered- Sold
1977-1980 Suzuki GS550, GS1000E, GS1000S GSX750, GSX1100,s
Hondas ST90, CR125 CB175 , CB350 CB750, NSU Quickly, Yamaha RD's 350/400,
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HaggisHombre
Remove Engine
It is time to remove the engine. I have this lift under the engine so I can remove the bolts then I will shuffle it over the frame onto the lift and keep it there until I can connect the rear engine mounts to the motor stand. The manual said to remove the breather cover which I did. I included a picture do they normally look like that? I have sent an email to Z1 asking about OEM gaskets.
Last edited by Guest; 10-25-2013, 08:30 AM.
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HaggisHombre
Engine is out
I have done this myself using this method once before. My lower back is not in the best shape so I had to be careful. Using this method I was able to get the engine out without to much strain.
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