78 GS1000 Skunk

[crackerman]

Finally got my ultrasonic cleaner and the o-rings and gaskets came in. Finished putting the carbs back together this morning. Need to check my valve and clean up the engine. I should have the frame back tomorrow.



Before:

After:

[crackerman]

Back from the powder coater.

[nvr2old]

Nothing like newly done powder coated parts..mmmmm. Looks like you went with a bit of a satin finish rather then high-gloss, eh..?

[crackerman]

Nothing like newly done powder coated parts..mmmmm. Looks like you went with a bit of a satin finish rather then high-gloss, eh..?

Yea it's Satin Black. Not a fan of high-gloss frames. Tank and other bits will be shiny.

I might put the swing arm and front end together and put the wheels on, then put it on it's side to get the engine in. Or does it make sense to leave the frame bare and then lay it on its side to get the engine in?

[chuck hahn]

Put the front end,swing arm , and wheels on. And the center stand and set the bike up on center stand. Then make a box stand thats dead even with the top of the frame rails. And make a piece of plywood that fits between them on a floor jack.

Now set the engine on the stand and get the plywood on the jack even with the top of the frame rails also. Wiggle the engine from the box stand thru the frame and resting on the jack..now just slowly let down the jack when you have it all lined up..shouldnt take more than ten minutes tops. Use the jack to allign the frame mounts and bolts will go in with a little rubber mallet persuasion.

[crackerman]

You wouldn't have a picture of this would you?

So I understand the box stand that is as high as the bottom frame rails, and then I make a board the fits between the frame rails on top of floor jack? Won't I scratch the frame rail when I pull the engine through?

Thanks

Put the front end,swing arm , and wheels on. And the center stand and set the bike up on center stand. Then make a box stand thats dead even with the top of the frame rails. And make a piece of plywood that fits between them on a floor jack.

Now set the engine on the stand and get the plywood on the jack even with the top of the frame rails also. Wiggle the engine from the box stand thru the frame and resting on the jack..now just slowly let down the jack when you have it all lined up..shouldnt take more than ten minutes tops. Use the jack to allign the frame mounts and bolts will go in with a little rubber mallet persuasion.

[steveb922]

Make your engine stand, and your jacked-up plywood, level with each other at a height just above the lower frame rails. Use some pipe lagging (as in your picture above) as insurance. And a spare pair of hands is very useful.

[chuck hahn]

Yes...maybe I should have clarified at the TOPS of the frame rails and maybe 1/4 above. Eric Bang had someone post a video a while back of him doing it. Works like a hot knife thru butter.

Just wiggle and slide it off the box platform onto the plywood on the jack, adjust and align and set it in. You wont scratch the frame. If your worried about that wrap it with some cardboard on the bottom and the up tubes where the front may hit it.

[Vmass]

That's coming along nicely, Crackerman! Keep up the good work.

I have a skunk tail piece tucked away somewhere. The paint is original and in beautiful shape, almost looks new. I believe a couple of the mounting studs underneath are busted, so some type of fix would be necessary but it would NOT need to be painted to match your tank.

Let me know if you want it?

Who did your powder coating and would you mind discussing the costs involved?

[crackerman]

That's coming along nicely, Crackerman! Keep up the good work.

I have a skunk tail piece tucked away somewhere. The paint is original and in beautiful shape, almost looks new. I believe a couple of the mounting studs underneath are busted, so some type of fix would be necessary but it would NOT need to be painted to match your tank.

Let me know if you want it?

Who did your powder coating and would you mind discussing the costs involved?

Yes I would be interested in that tail pieces. I'll PM you.

The first place I went to wanted almost 1k to do all those parts and the brake calipers. The place I ended up going to cost me $620 cash. There called Coating Application Technology, in Woburn. Industrial place that does motorcycle parts and other bits on the side. I'm pretty happy with the work they did. They didn't miss much with the taping and plugs. I've been dremel sanding a few spots.

[Vmass]

Pictures of the skunk tail are below. After digging it out today, I recall why I bought it.... it is as pictured, less the plastic chrome trim around the back:











Make me an offer, and I won't refuse it!

[crackerman]

Should have a roller soon. I need to do something with the wheels as there ok but need to be cleaned up better. I think I'm going to have to disassemble them and re spoke.

[crackerman]

Worked on the brake setup yesterday. Just did a dry setup for the front and rear brakes. Put the rear wheel on as well. Ignore the rear shocks. I'm either going to get new ones, or just replace the springs. Probably should just get new one. I got a bunch of small pieces that I need to paint, but it's like 10 degree out. I use a plug in heater in my garage that might warm it up to about 50. Too cold to paint.

[crackerman]

Couldn't look at the rims anymore. The front wasn't bad, but the rear looks like crap. The only way I can really clean them up it to break them down. I've never re-laced a rim before so I took a ton of pictures and I'm taking my time. I found a few good sites on the web as well. I soaked the ends in WD-40 and was able to loosen all the front spoke with out any snapping. I haven't tried the rear spokes yet.

These spokes should clean up nicely, but I'm thinking I should get new spokes.



Front

[SVSooke]

I was told here that WD-40 is NOT penetrating oil,I found out they where right.Do yourself a favor and get some real penetrating oil.I like a Canadian product Lloyds Movitt but PB Blaster is almost as good.