New to me GS1000G

[JTGS850GL]

Got the broken screw out of the intake. Tried the left hand drill bit but it still wouldn't budge and just drilled on through. I ended up drilling it through with a 5mm drill bit and then re-tapping it back to 6mm x 1 so all is back on schedule. The intake boots were still soft and unmolested so I decided to reuse them for now. I did order new air filter boots though. The ones that came with the bike were hard as rock. Still waiting for them to arrive from Z1.

Just a sanity check. When I installed the intake boots I realized that there was a Left and Right side. I found the markings on the boots:




I assumed that the L and R were left side and right side of center with the person facing forward. I also assumed that the L and R faced up. Are these assumptions correct?

Here's how they look mounted with new SS cap screws coated with anti seize and new O-rings:


Next step is to do a good cleaning with degreaser once I plug the intake holes with something.

Brakes are coming along as well. Cleaned calipers with new pistons and seals all loaded up and ready:


New pads were NOS Vesrahs:

[GSX1000E]

Yes, you mounted the intake manifolds correctly.

[azr]

One my 1000G, when the boots are installed with the letters facing upwards the carbs/airbox are a royal PIA to install, with the letters facing downwards the carbs/airbox all go in like butter, just they way they were designed to.

[JTGS850GL]

So which is it???? Letters down or up? I have one vote for each. I'm a little confused now.

[GSX1000E]

I just went out and checked five of my 1000G's and pulled some new manifolds out of the bags, the letters go up!
Or, with the smallest/narrowest part up left and up right respectively with the letters up. Do whatever you choose.

[azr]

If you ask anyone you will be told letters up for sure. I really have no idea why mine need to be down to have the carbs and airbox fit better. Doesn't matter which way you put them in, if the carb and airbox don't want to go together easily you'll just have to pull things off and turn the boots around, at least you'll know what the problem is.

[tkent02]

While you are in there, rebuild the cam chin tensioner. It's starting to leak.

[JTGS850GL]

Thanks for the heads up tkent02. I already have the parts for that sitting around so it's going to get done. I'm also going to replace the seals in the tach drive. Seems to be leaking there as well.

[JTGS850GL]

Valves were adjusted today. Several of the valves were less then .03mm but buckets still were able to rotate. Luckily I had enough shims left over from adjusting my 850 that I didn't need to order any new shims. In the end, the widest gap was .08mm and the tightest was .05mm. All shims were between 2.60mm and 2.70mm. Surprised that they were in that good shape based the fact that all the valve cover screws were close to being seized and the valve cover gasket was toast and leaking badly. I don't thing the valves were adjusted in years. Good news was that nothing looked out of the ordinary. All buckets rotated smoothly and no visible cam wear. Just waiting on the breather cover gasket and some cleaning of the old valve cover gasket to get it buttoned up.

[azr]

What are your plans with the oil cooler? if you're not putting it back on you'll need another oil sensor or I guess you could plug the extra hole in the one you have for the cooler. Not sure why anyone would ever put an oil cooler on a stock G.

[78gs750e]

Just putting it out there is the sender plate he needs to replace the oil cooler plate the same from a 1000 chain drive? If so I would swap you.

[Flyboy]

Yes it is the same thing.

[JTGS850GL]

I've already made arraignments to trade the adaptor and cooler for a replacement stock housing with new rubber from a fellow GSR member. I've never seen an oil cooler's hose routing that looked like it belonged on the bike.

[JTGS850GL]

Been working on the bike today. Received the master cylinder rebuild components so that got completed. The brake handle was looking rough so I stripped and painted that as well:


Started on the forks. They were so badly corroded on the outside that I had to strip them down with aircraft paint remover and clean them up. Why not ad a little polish while at it:

Actually it took a wire bushing, some sanding (1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500 grit) and then a little help from mother.

I know, I know it's not stock but I really loved the look of chrome and wanted to personalize the bike a bit. Picked up the complete assembly for a real good price and the condition was better then expected. Right now it's just mocked up to see how things will fit and look.:




I like the look of the rectangular turn signals so I'll change out the rears to match. I do have a new instrument panel back plate ordered as well. Waiting on the rest of the stock components to arrive. Once they do I'll be able to finish the front end.

Forks were completely disassembled and cleaned out. Very little pitting on the fork tubes and none in the slide area. I was very pleased with that. New seals were installed and one fork is complete. The only reason the other isn't, is because I ran out of fork oil. I'll pick some up tomorrow and finish the fork rebuild. Measured the springs and they were still in spec so I'll go with those for now.

Started to clean things up a bit. Since the valve adjustment was done I wanted to button up the top. Here's how she looks with a newly painted cover and some wire brushing/paint on the top end:


I'll keep working my way around with the paint and polish as I go.

[JTGS850GL]

Ahhggg! started checking out the electrical system and guess what.... Yep the stator is shorted to ground. Each leg measures .7 ohms and they measure the same .07 to ground so I guess I'll be in the market for a new stator and probably a new regulator as well. I did find this used one on ebay that looks to in good shape and is supposed to be tested:


Does it really matter what "brand" of stator I buy? I see prices from $80 delivered to $130. Some have no brand some have Rick's, Electrosport, Arrowhead or Procom. I plan on using the SH775BA regulator either way in order to protect the new stator. I just want a good working charging system and don't plan on a lot of accessories. Price is important.