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1982 GS1100EZ Phase II

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    #31
    That's a good idea. I'm wondering if that shorter and straighter kickstand would bolt right up to the OEM spot and solve the issue. The stock stand has quite a sweep to it.

    I like your numbering system.

    I was thinking that I just ride sans stand and have my race crew follow me everywhere I go, jump out of a van, and put me on the rear stand every time I pull into a coffee shop or something.

    I put a dab of weld on the contact point of the kickstand. It's down a little, but I'll have to test ride to see if it's enough. I'm sure I can find a happy medium between dragging and cramping.

    -Kevin

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      #32
      Originally posted by CivilRock View Post
      That's a good idea. I'm wondering if that shorter and straighter kickstand would bolt right up to the OEM spot and solve the issue. The stock stand has quite a sweep to it.

      I like your numbering system.

      I was thinking that I just ride sans stand and have my race crew follow me everywhere I go, jump out of a van, and put me on the rear stand every time I pull into a coffee shop or something.

      I put a dab of weld on the contact point of the kickstand. It's down a little, but I'll have to test ride to see if it's enough. I'm sure I can find a happy medium between dragging and cramping.

      -Kevin
      What I'm doing right now is, take out the kickstand and put it in my backpack. When I need to park, just take it out, and throw it in with a screw driver through the hole. Works fine for now.

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by MK3Brent View Post
        What I'm doing right now is, take out the kickstand and put it in my backpack. When I need to park, just take it out, and throw it in with a screw driver through the hole. Works fine for now.
        That's keepin' it real.

        I think I'm going to try and fabricate just the stand arm. If it doesn't have that sweeping arc to it, I think it will tuck up in there nicely. I took a long look at it this morning, and even if I moved it all the way forward or back on the frame rail, it's still going to be in the way. And I'd rather not cut/weld on the frame right there and ruin my powdercoating if I can avoid it.

        Brent, can you do some engineering analysis and design for my kickstand? Is cast iron stronger than mild steel? I'm going to assume nearest the pivot point needs to be the strongest part.

        I might have to really think about this, as I don't want to test my fabrication skills and have my bike laying on it's side in a parking lot.

        -Kevin

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          #34
          I could build something like this pretty easily.
          Or shoot, for $34 buy this one and cut it to length.
          -K

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by CivilRock View Post
            That's keepin' it real.

            I think I'm going to try and fabricate just the stand arm. If it doesn't have that sweeping arc to it, I think it will tuck up in there nicely. I took a long look at it this morning, and even if I moved it all the way forward or back on the frame rail, it's still going to be in the way. And I'd rather not cut/weld on the frame right there and ruin my powdercoating if I can avoid it.

            Brent, can you do some engineering analysis and design for my kickstand? Is cast iron stronger than mild steel? I'm going to assume nearest the pivot point needs to be the strongest part.

            I might have to really think about this, as I don't want to test my fabrication skills and have my bike laying on it's side in a parking lot.

            -Kevin


            Hi, Kevin.
            Sorry I didn't see this post until now.

            Carbon steel has (generally) less shear strength properties vs. cast iron.

            But really, consider the forces. Either materials should work fine, as long as you're not shocking the kickstand mounting tab. Remember, your interface is still going to be carbon steel if welded to the tube of the bike.

            Hope this helps.

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              #36
              Why not just weld a bead on the kickstand rest and grind to finish so that the kickstand rides just a wee bit lower in the seated position?

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by MK3Brent View Post
                What I'm doing right now is, take out the kickstand and put it in my backpack. When I need to park, just take it out, and throw it in with a screw driver through the hole. Works fine for now.
                And I thought I was 'roughing it' by riding without a center stand!
                1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
                  And I thought I was 'roughing it' by riding without a center stand!
                  Please don't get me wrong... this is a huge pain in the ass and is getting old quick! I think I'm going to get a bolt on affair much like posted above. might put mine on the right side because of clearance being the best there.
                  Last edited by Guest; 05-10-2014, 01:51 PM.

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by GSX1000E View Post
                    Why not just weld a bead on the kickstand rest and grind to finish so that the kickstand rides just a wee bit lower in the seated position?
                    That's exactly what I did. It's still not low enough, and I sat there for quite some time trying to figure out how low it needs to be and not only will it look weird with the kickstand 25% deployed, it will probably scrape the ground.

                    I even thought that I could just nudge it down with my toe as I shifted, but it's too hard, and it takes too long. That might sound super picky, but adding 1 second onto a .125 second action is too long.

                    I'm going to build a new kickstand that will tuck under the frame better and use the existing mounting tab. That's the plan anyway.

                    On a different note, one of my long time buddies was looking over the list of parts my bike has, noted that the list of original parts is much shorter than the list of existing parts. I thought that was amusing... and true.

                    1. Frame
                    2. Tank
                    3. Body
                    4. tail light
                    5. headlight

                    There's more little stuff, but not much.
                    -Kevin


                    2004



                    2014
                    Last edited by Guest; 05-20-2014, 02:42 PM.

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                      #40
                      I haven't had a chance to go through the whole build thread but the first page looks good, man! I dig the bike so far. Keep up the good work

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Fabricated Kickstand

                        Problem solved.
                        Only took me about 4 hours of cutting, grinding, fitting, welding, refitting x5, and painting last night until 2:30am.

                        Tucks up nicely out of the way and the bike leans over about 1 deg less, which is OK with me. When I added 1" ride height to the rear it really made it lean on the stand.
                        Plenty strong. I made the hinge out of 1/4" plate and cut them in a "V" shape. Then I notched out the tube to match. I did it so my main welds weren't 90 deg to the round tube.
                        I couldn't decide on a foot shape so I just traced the shape of of the original seed shape.

                        -Kevin











                        Sorry, didn't realize this one was out of focus until now.
                        Last edited by Guest; 05-20-2014, 03:53 PM.

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