1983 GS750E Progress:

[CivilRock]

Whoops. You've had the plates out already.

Basket should come out with the nut removed. There's a spacer that comes out first then it can move over enough to come out.

[CivilRock]

Sorry to babble on.

Also check the synthetic you're using. You want get one without the super slippery friction modifiers. I can't remember all the specs, it used to be just get the Mobil 1 with the red cap. But they don't sell it anymore.

It's just hard to figure out because there's 1M people with 1M different ideas on the subject. It gets nauseating. Now I just buy Dino oil and change it too often.

Kevin

[blowerbike]

an 83 750E/ES in the states have a worm gear in the sprocket cover.
make sure it has a half turn of free play or it can be holding your pressure plate from clamping your clutch back 100%.
and i'm glad to see someone post about being within spec but maybe the plates are hard from heat cycles...i have preached that till i gave up on people listening.
glad you mentioned it

[MK3Brent]

The reason I mention the basket, was because I had a stripped pressure plate stanchion. I was able to re tap it for a 1/4-20 unc to me rolling again. Meanwhile I have a good condition basket replacement.

Thanks Kevin.

Looks like this time might have been the trick. Need to test ride.

[MK3Brent]

I suppose I should update this thread to resolve some questions if anyone searches for similar issues concerning the clutch.

I'm not quite sure what the issue really was. I believe that it was a combination of some slightly warped drive plates and un-lubricated driven/drive plates were causing my problem.

How I resolved the issue:
I swapped over a new set of drive discs that were true and flat, and also replaced the driven discs.
This alone didn't solve the issue. The bike would still stall once I dropped it down into first gear.

So with the bike on the center stand, I would drop down into first gear.
The rear wheel would begin spinning, even though the clutch was depressed.
I then eased onto the rear brake while listening to the engine speed fall. I then supplemented throttle with the loss in RPM from the dragging of the brakes.

I kept this up till eventually it loosened itself up enough to not lose RPM when applying the rear brake.

So perhaps it was just a lubrication issue in the basket. Everything is fine now. Slips fine with the wheels firmly on the ground and dropping it down into 1st.

------------------

Here is also an update on the wideband, and tuning my carbs:

The meter is pegged at cruising speeds.

At WOT, I'm actually right where I want to be mid 12s-13.

I just need to either play with the jet, or possibly adjust the air screws... but that will lean out my WOT range too.

Best to start with the jet.

My wideband was pegged 9:1 AFR while cruising, and idle.
While I wasn't sure if the gauge was accurate, I removed the plugs to inspect.
To my surprise, the plugs looked "okay." Not excessively rich or perhaps oil coated/burnt.

I removed the carbs and lowered my needle jets from the 4th notch from the top, to the 2nd notch from the top. (Dynojet kit needle jets.)
Also, I screwed the fuel mixture screw down to the full seated position. (Max lean.)

I re-installed everything, warmed up the wideband, and started the bike.
Now as predicted, the bike needed the choke to idle and I recorded the observed AFR. (18-19:1)

I then proceeded to dial out the fuel mixture screws 1 turn at a time.

AFR's are being measured at idle speed. 1100rpm or so.
1 - Turn from full seat resulted with an AFR of 17:1
2 - Turns from full seat resulted with an AFR of 16:1
3 - Turns from full seat resulted with an AFR of approximately 14.7:1 stoic.

AFR's are acceptable now through the rev range.
I'm going to continue logging and fiddling to get things the best I can.

I just wanted to share that the wideband has probably been the best modification for this bike yet. It has made my life so much simpler while trying to trouble shoot. I can really take advantage of the 70mm velocity stacks. Low end grunt is much more noticeable. I wish I had some baseline hp/tq readings before all the changes during the years.

Next up, will probably be to either get some extended front brake lines or replace the entire front end totally like previously discussed.

One last thing:
A few months ago I purchased a pair of U-Clear's HBC 200 helmet communicators.
These things are really awesome. If you ever ride with a friend or something, it's really useful to talk or w/e while riding.
When you're riding alone, you can sync it to your phone or bluetooth music player and enjoy your ride with some tunes.
The benefit of it, is all you need to do to mute or stop the music is tap the side of the unit on your helmet. (Nice feature.)

Anyway, thanks for all the help as always guys.

[posplayr]

I suppose I should update this thread to resolve some questions if anyone searches for similar issues concerning the clutch.

I'm not quite sure what the issue really was. I believe that it was a combination of some slightly warped drive plates and un-lubricated driven/drive plates were causing my problem.

How I resolved the issue:
I swapped over a new set of drive discs that were true and flat, and also replaced the driven discs.
This alone didn't solve the issue. The bike would still stall once I dropped it down into first gear.

So with the bike on the center stand, I would drop down into first gear.
The rear wheel would begin spinning, even though the clutch was depressed.
I then eased onto the rear brake while listening to the engine speed fall. I then supplemented throttle with the loss in RPM from the dragging of the brakes.

I kept this up till eventually it loosened itself up enough to not lose RPM when applying the rear brake.

So perhaps it was just a lubrication issue in the basket. Everything is fine now. Slips fine with the wheels firmly on the ground and dropping it down into 1st.

------------------

Here is also an update on the wideband, and tuning my carbs:

The meter is pegged at cruising speeds.

At WOT, I'm actually right where I want to be mid 12s-13.

I just need to either play with the jet, or possibly adjust the air screws... but that will lean out my WOT range too.

Best to start with the jet.

My wideband was pegged 9:1 AFR while cruising, and idle.
While I wasn't sure if the gauge was accurate, I removed the plugs to inspect.
To my surprise, the plugs looked "okay." Not excessively rich or perhaps oil coated/burnt.

I removed the carbs and lowered my needle jets from the 4th notch from the top, to the 2nd notch from the top. (Dynojet kit needle jets.)
Also, I screwed the fuel mixture screw down to the full seated position. (Max lean.)

I re-installed everything, warmed up the wideband, and started the bike.
Now as predicted, the bike needed the choke to idle and I recorded the observed AFR. (18-19:1)

I then proceeded to dial out the fuel mixture screws 1 turn at a time.

AFR's are being measured at idle speed. 1100rpm or so.
1 - Turn from full seat resulted with an AFR of 17:1
2 - Turns from full seat resulted with an AFR of 16:1
3 - Turns from full seat resulted with an AFR of approximately 14.7:1 stoic.

AFR's are acceptable now through the rev range.
I'm going to continue logging and fiddling to get things the best I can.

I just wanted to share that the wideband has probably been the best modification for this bike yet. It has made my life so much simpler while trying to trouble shoot. I can really take advantage of the 70mm velocity stacks. Low end grunt is much more noticeable. I wish I had some baseline hp/tq readings before all the changes during the years.

Next up, will probably be to either get some extended front brake lines or replace the entire front end totally like previously discussed.

One last thing:
A few months ago I purchased a pair of U-Clear's HBC 200 helmet communicators.
These things are really awesome. If you ever ride with a friend or something, it's really useful to talk or w/e while riding.
When you're riding alone, you can sync it to your phone or bluetooth music player and enjoy your ride with some tunes.
The benefit of it, is all you need to do to mute or stop the music is tap the side of the unit on your helmet. (Nice feature.)

Anyway, thanks for all the help as always guys.

I just noticed this thread. Bike looks good. Not sure fi you saw this thread. There is some general info on AFR and how the WB02 tuning when n my 1166.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=164565&highlight=AFR+Info

[MK3Brent]

Thanks for that info. I think I came across it at one point.

The idea is to definitely do your own measurements, so much is different from bike to bike.

[Kowalski]

Does the center stand stay in place well? I'm going to be doing away with my passenger peg mounts in favor of rearsets but I'd love to keep the center stand too.
You've built a great looking bike btw.

[MK3Brent]

I only use the center-stand for working on the bike. So, I've actually never ridden the bike with the CS.

[scamp62]

Sorry to go back to the 3^rd post (just discovered this line of post) but being new to the GS, and bike building (I’m good to go with the 4 wheel type of travel) but “anti-dives” what is that referring to ? for my project is looking somewhat like MK3’s, and what is the problem with the “anti-dives” ?
thanks for the info !

[eil]

The anti-dives are the units on the lower front of the forks with a brake line going into them. They're supposed to keep the front end of the bike from diving forward when brakes are applied. In practice, those who have them say they don't help all that much and many people remove them to make servicing the brakes easier.

[Rob S.]

I also recall anti-dive being discontinued because it was realized that, to a certain extent, it was better for the front to dive under heavy braking.

Is my memory faulty?

[mmattockx]

In practice, those who have them say they don't help all that much and many people remove them to make servicing the brakes easier.

I also recall anti-dive being discontinued because it was realized that, to a certain extent, it was better for the front to dive under heavy braking.

Is my memory faulty?

The problem with the anti-dive systems used on a number of early 80's bikes was the way they implemented it. Mechanical anti-dive that is achieved in the suspension geometry or with mechanical linkages works just fine. Anti-dive that increases the compression damping when the brakes are applied doesn't work well at all. It makes the front end harsh over bumps while on the brakes and doesn't prevent any dive, it just slows it down a bit. All of the street bike systems just increased the compression damping.

It is not better to allow dive because it eats up suspension travel that is needed for dealing with bumps. The geometry changes that take place under hard braking with telescopic forks are useful, though, because they reduce trail and this reduces the steering effort required, offsetting the increase in forces as the front tire is loaded up under braking and during turn in.


Mark

[scamp62]

as always gentlemen…thank you for the education ! so glad I don’t have them !!!

[rwnielsen]

Speed Demon Cycles sells blanking plates in either brushed aluminum or black. I have a set and they're nicely made