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GS1000. On my own this time

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    #16
    Suck on the vacuum line too, that's the one that would leak fuel into #3 if the diaphragm is leaking.
    Gasoline thinning out the oil could cause a lot of smoke if that's what's happening.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Reconnoiter View Post
      One way to test the fuel petcock is to disconnect it from carb and try to suck air out of it, if you get gas in your mouth then you know it's bad
      I have a 81 gs1000L and have had this similar problem before, another way to test is to disconnect line from #2 carb (sitting on bike left to right on mine)
      Plug line with a golf tee or something like that, also put fuel line on #2 carb and plug that too, give it a try and see what happens

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        #18
        Originally posted by Reconnoiter View Post
        I have a 81 gs1000L and have had this similar problem before, another way to test is to disconnect line from #2 carb (sitting on bike left to right on mine)
        Plug line with a golf tee or something like that, also put fuel line on #2 carb and plug that too, give it a try and see what happens
        For this you would have to put your petcock on prime

        Bob

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          #19
          Sounds easy enough to check the two lines into the petcock with a bit of suction. will do and report back.

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            #20
            Is It Oil Burning or Is It Running Rich?

            Do some research on here about the difference between white smoke and blue smoke. I forget which is which now. But I have had a lot of this on one of my GS1100s and it was all cured with a carb synch:

            See: My GS1100 Road Runner - Carb Synch Blog

            Before:



            After:



            You can see the smoke it was producing here:



            Run the motor without the header and look up the exhaust manifolds. See how this one is spitting fire? It was way out of synch and creating all sorts of smoke and fire:



            Then do one of these and Bob is surely your Uncle:



            Might not need a carb synch of course but I would prefer to do one of those than to strip the head.

            Greetings
            Richard
            sigpic
            GS1150 EF bought Jun 2015
            GS1150 ES bought Mar 2014: ES Makeover Thread AND blog: Go to the Blog
            GS1100 G (2) bought Aug 2013: Road Runner Project Thread AND blog: Go to the Blog
            GS1100 G (1) Dad bought new 1985 (in rebuild) see: Dad's GS1100 G Rebuild AND blog: Go to the Blog
            Previously owned: Suzuki GS750 EF (Canada), Suzuki GS750 (UK)(Avatar circa 1977), Yamaha XT500, Suzuki T500, Honda XL125, Garelli 50
            Join the United Kingdom (UK) Suzuki GS Facebook Group here

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              #21
              Thanks Richard, good videos.

              So the new petcock, thankfully, seems fine. Lots of good fuel flow out of the fuel port when I apply suction to the vacuum port but zero fuel going into the vacuum line. No fuel at all when I apply suction to the fuel outlet port. Tonnes of great flow on prime.

              So with that hopefully eliminated as a possibility it's on the carbs. While I'm at learning a lot more about rebuilding the carbs, I'm going to re-clean the inside of the gas tank and look at a por15 liner (yes I will follow the instructions very carefully). It had an old liner in it and I worked pretty hard to clean it out with acetone and drywall screws and lots of shaking.... But last time I put gas in it I saw some small bits of the old liner... So don't want nice clean carbs and more gunk to get in there. (ps, I had fuel line filter, which seems perfectly clear, but I'm assuming that's not a sure sign small bits didn't make it to the carbs.
              I'm assuming from what I read I can bench sync the carbs to get them in the ballpark. Anyway, much more to come in my upcoming carb adventure. They've supposedly been cleaned and rebuilt by a mechanic recently, but as noted below, I think it's time I saw for myself and learned how to do it. Let's see what he did.

              I'll get pictures started soon as I can..

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                #22
                Originally posted by RobertGS1000 View Post
                I'm assuming from what I read I can bench sync the carbs to get them in the ballpark.
                You can get them close enough to start the engine. If everything is in great shape, compression the same on all cylinders etc, it may run OK. Usually not so good, never perfect. Some of them run terribly until they are vacuum synched, even with good tight engines. What the vacuum synching does is adjust the carbs for any imperfections in the engine, make all of the cyinders do the same amount of the work, no matter the condition of the engine. It's not an optional procedure. It's not hard either.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

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                  #23
                  Thanks I'll get the guages.

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                    #24
                    Probably someone near you on this forum has a set.
                    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                    Life is too short to ride an L.

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                      #25
                      Well it'll be a while till I get to that point so maybe by then I'll know if someone's nearby.

                      Thought I'd add a picture of the bike and carbs at this point. I'll do it separately until I learn how to post multiple. Just haven't gotten to that yet.

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                        #26
                        And the carbs

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by RobertGS1000 View Post
                          Well it'll be a while till I get to that point so maybe by then I'll know if someone's nearby.

                          Thought I'd add a picture of the bike and carbs at this point. I'll do it separately until I learn how to post multiple. Just haven't gotten to that yet.
                          take 5 minutes, set up a photobucket account, activate it, and load your pictures into a file there. Then, copy and paste them into your post

                          Naturally, there's a how to on BassCliff's site
                          1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                          1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                          1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                          1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                          1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                          1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                          2007 DRz 400S
                          1999 ATK 490ES
                          1994 DR 350SES

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                            #28
                            You can also upload them straight to imgur.com with no account and link right to them like this:

                            Charles
                            --
                            1979 Suzuki GS850G

                            Read BassCliff's GSR Greeting and Mega-Welcome!

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                              #29
                              Great thanks for the photo help. I’ve been having fun taking apart carbs for the first time. There is a bit of gunk, mostly on the pilot few screws…. Sort of greyish goop. Otherwise by site pretty clean but I realize the full dip and blow is required anyway.

                              I’ve been mulling the float heights. As noted the carbs were dripping very slightly after running. I see in Paul Musser’s VM Carb Rebuild notes that “aftermarket float needle valve spring tension on the jet needles can be weak allowing gas level to be high. Well "the mechanic" did replace these recently. So I’m wondering if I should adjust the float levels to the end of the spec range that will lower the level a bit. In my manual the float height range is 23mm to 25mm. They seem to be roughly 24 so I’m thinking adjust them to 25.


                              Re the intake boots I've ordered new o-rings from Robert Barr. The boots themselves don't seem to have cracks where the carbs go in. A bit of deterioration of the rubber at the fasteners.. some of which as you can see are not looking good so I'll replace. I'm thinking stick with the boots, they seem pliable and as I say, don't see any issues by site...

                              Last edited by Guest; 04-17-2014, 11:40 PM.

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                                #30
                                You need to check you settings on the photo page, they're sized waaay too big

                                Start putting some penetrating oil on those boot screws, I'll be surprised if they all come out easily
                                1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                                1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                                1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                                1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                                1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                                1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                                2007 DRz 400S
                                1999 ATK 490ES
                                1994 DR 350SES

                                Comment

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