My new 1978 GS550. Trying to learn about bikes and safe riding (Madison, WI)

[noveg]

Good news. In Wisconsin, motorcycles 1980 and older the title goes by the VIN on the engine.
Just verified this with the Wisconsin DOT Advanced Research and Information Group. (608) 266-1466.
Looks like I'm in the clear.

[tkent02]

Any suggestions on buying gear for the casual rider that isn't too hot, or expensive?

Look at NewEnough, and get mesh pants with full armor.

[SouthsideWJK]

Love the bike man!

Looks like a fun ride, solid learner!

[Big T]

Other members have responded to post #8, so I'll just hit the few they missed

The petcock doesn't need to be moved when you ride, or stop. The circle should be down (ON). You only move it forward (as in your last photo) to Reserve when you run out of gas

The 550 is a small engine and produces power at higher RPMs. Keep it above 4K , as Tom suggests

Costs - you bought a bike cheaply. That means it needs $500-$1,000 to fix all of its problems and become roadworthy. Yes, you'll end up spending more than you paid for the bike. That's why a decent, complete one costs around $1,500

Read the top 10 newbie mistakes again and use that as a checklist for your bike. Ask the guy you got it from what he did to it and check that off of your list. Then, do the rest, like check the date code on the tires.

[Mista M]

Read through the links given, if you search youtube there are helpful videos some GS members made.

Gear: Revzilla, sportbiketrackgear, motorcyclesuperstore. read reviews and watch out for sizing differences between brands of gear.

Riding tip:
Practice rotating your head while walking, driving a car, looking at women, everything. Make it second nature.
When cornering/turning, don't keep a stiff elbow. Bend the elbow.

Search Keith Code on youtube.

[850GT_Rider]

Good news. In Wisconsin, motorcycles 1980 and older the title goes by the VIN on the engine.
Just verified this with the Wisconsin DOT Advanced Research and Information Group. (608) 266-1466.
Looks like I'm in the clear.

Welcome to the asylum.

Not sure about before 1980, but maybe in '80, it could be either way. My early production '80 850 is registered by the frame number.

Doesn't really matter either way - as long as they said you're good to go, you are!

[berlinbullet]

Hey there noveg!

I am in a very similar boat as you right now. Just bought an 81 GS650L which was neglected a bit. As such I am running through the newbie checklist from here and also doing some other things (fixing a squeal in the tach, lubing the cable lines, cleaning up rust, etc.).

The best part is I am doing all of this in Madison, too! I just took the MSFBR course up here a few weeks ago, and the instructors were great. It was good to get a feel for low speed maneuvering again as I haven't ridden since I last took a BR class.

How has your experience been so far? Run into any more "gotchas" with your bike?

[noveg]

Hey there noveg!

I am in a very similar boat as you right now. Just bought an 81 GS650L which was neglected a bit. As such I am running through the newbie checklist from here and also doing some other things (fixing a squeal in the tach, lubing the cable lines, cleaning up rust, etc.).

The best part is I am doing all of this in Madison, too! I just took the MSFBR course up here a few weeks ago, and the instructors were great. It was good to get a feel for low speed maneuvering again as I haven't ridden since I last took a BR class.

How has your experience been so far? Run into any more "gotchas" with your bike?

Hey Berlin!
Great to see another Madisonian is on here!

I've only run into 2 "gotchas"
1. The front shocks seem blown.
2. The clutch cable got disconnected in the clutch housing because the sprocket that the chain is on was missing its bolt and it ate away at the cable connector. I'm going to Seuters to see if they have the part.

It would be great to meet up sometime. Maybe we can help each other on the bikes!

- Noveg

[ChicagoBob]

Great bike! A used 550 has a lot of potential. You are lucky to have intact, unscratched stator and points covers on the engine. These usually get pretty beat-up when the bike is dropped.

You should take care of the basics first. Get a service manual and check everything. Valve clearance should be checked, oil should be changed, wiring connectors should be cleaned, chain should be adjusted and lubed, and brakes should be rebuilt. New tires are a good idea. 1970s tires are not very good by modern standards.

You are lucky that your engine runs well, even without an airbox cover. The homemade air filter is probably too restrictive, so look for a good one, and an airbox cover, on eBay. You don't seem to have ignition problems, but I'd check the points, condensors, timing, plugs and plug wires anyhow.

As for the ignition points, they are a cheap and easy maintenance item. You don't have to upgrade to an electronic ignition to get good performance.

The VM carbs are easy to rebuild and to tune. They don't have expensive diaphrams, like the newer CV carbs. If they give you trouble, a cleaning and new o-rings will improve matters greatly. Keep the original needles, if possible.

Your brake fluid and lines are probably toast, so now is a good time to upgrade to new ones. Stainless lines are almost as cheap as new stock ones. Get new pads, too, and rebuild or replace the front master cylinder. Check out MikesXS.com for parts like that. Cheap insurance.

1970s forks are pretty basic and need maintenance. There are no front "shocks," just damper rods with holes in them, and oil that sloshes through the holes when the wheel moves. Your oil has probably gotten dirty and/or leaked out. You should disassemble the forks, clean out the gunk, replace the fork seals, and add new oil. If your fork tubes are in good shape, all this shouldn't be too expensive.

The stock front springs are soft, and are probably sagging after 36 years, but new ones are available, and you can add a few washers under the fork caps to beef them up in the meantime. For real improvement, send the forks to Race Tech for cartridge emulators and springs designed for your weight.

Your rear shocks were never very good and are now definitely worn (although the ones in your pictures aren't original). The 550E's cast rear wheel and brake disk are HEAVY, so there's a lot of unsprung weight to control. New shocks will improve the ride a lot, and I don't mean those $75 eBay ones. Even something like Progressive 412s (with the bike's stock springs) will be a big improvement, and cost less than $300. Check them out at Motorcyclesuperstore.com (also a good source of tires).

The charging system can be a problem on these bikes, but checking the wiring connections will allow you to avoid a lot of problems there. If your battery is keeping its charge, you are probably in good shape already.

Good luck with the bike.

The 550 engine is almost bulletproof, is easy to maintain, and provides a lot of power for its size. You don't have to mod it to enjoy it. Just bring the maintenance up to date, and you'll have a trouble-free, good-performing bike.

[berlinbullet]

Hey Berlin!
Great to see another Madisonian is on here!

I've only run into 2 "gotchas"
1. The front shocks seem blown.
2. The clutch cable got disconnected in the clutch housing because the sprocket that the chain is on was missing its bolt and it ate away at the cable connector. I'm going to Seuters to see if they have the part.

It would be great to meet up sometime. Maybe we can help each other on the bikes!

- Noveg

In a city where mopeds reign supreme, it's cool to see another GS'er!

Send me a PM and we can get together and noob-talk about our bikes sometime!
So far I have had to replace the clutch cable and battery. Next on the list is to lube the tachometer, change the oil, and replace some of the electrical switches.