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FAUX 78 Skunk 1100 Project
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Here are some things I learned with 1100 to 1000 Body Conversion:1. Had to open up the tank mounting bracket a little to get all the wiring through to the battery compartment.2. When I put the gs1000 handlebars on everything was a little tight but seems to work ok. Definitely will need a longer fron bake line though. I havent checked yet but hoping the one off of the gs1000 will suffice.3. I was able to locate all the body tabs at the same spacing as was on the gs1000. I did have to redo one of the seat hinge brackets so the seat would line up right.4. The Tank--- I took a members advise and opened the hole up big enough for the 1100 petcock and screen to fit in. When everything is bollted up the petcock does hit the number 1 carb. I had to cut a little bit of the lever off in order to be able to turn the lever to Prime.5. I had planned on putting gs1000 pegs on to keep the exact riding position of my gs1000 but found that the pegs have different spacing. As it turns out, I think it will be ok with the stock 1100 pegs.Since the left side tank is riding on the carb, the right side edge of the tank is sitting on the rear valve cover bolt. (that makes for some vibration noises when the tank is low on fuel)I still need to figure out how to either get a simple offset for the petcock or maybe a smaller petcock. I havent tried any grinding on the carb or the petcock, although it is so claose I am tempted.I am going to check and see if I can fit the chrome 78 fender on it also.All in all it was an easy job, probably took about 10 hours total... but now could do it much faster.Next phase is to tear everything apart again and paint, polish, and tune.... but i may ride it a while first. Here are the completed picsLast edited by Gregory; 06-22-2014, 10:24 PM.82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
80 gs1000s
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Morrison
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Originally posted by ozman View Postso i guess that makes the 4 new tanks i have kinda rare ??
ozman
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Gregory
With the petcock issue you describe, could it be you forgot the rear tank pad?
That's the one on top of the frame in front of the rear mounting bolt1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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ozman
Originally posted by Big T View PostGregory
With the petcock issue you describe, could it be you forgot the rear tank pad?
That's the one on top of the frame in front of the rear mounting bolt
ozman
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jwhelan65
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Pet C
Hiya Greg,
How about moving the whole steel boss on the tank back 1/2"?Or 3/4" to 1"?
And then warm the airbox a little if the lever hits and give it a little indent to clear. Plastic is wondrous stuff when warm. Is there a dent in the tank, right front?
Note, the 1980 GS750/1100 had a shorter in height petcock. Only an on/off and the bolt spacing was a little wider. It should be fine if you have a fuel gauge.
Gsigpic1983 1100 Katana - soon to be turbo Busa powered.
2007 GSXR1K-Sold-But not forgotten.
Have 2X ZG14 engine's for '81 GS750E project.
'82 GS750E frame is TITLED awaiting GSXR1127/12B engine and '81 1100E slowly being built.:eek:
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I ended up welding everything up identical to how the 78gs1000 was set up. I did have the tank pad on but the petcock was sitting on the carb causing it to kilter to the right side and touching on the top rear valve cover bolt.
What I ended up doing at least temporarily was, use the 1100 petcock which required me to make the screen hole in the tank a little larger, but it did bolt right up.
Another forum member gave me the idea of raising the tank a little. I tinkered with making the back of the tank a little higher by adding layers of old inner tube on top of the tank pad.
The right distance to get the tank off of the carb was about the thickness of 8 layers of inner tube. You will see in the following picture that I did find a 1/2" thick piece of rubber that I contact cemented on top of the tank pad.... then for good measure I wrapped some inner tube on the top of the frame.
With this set-up it is pretty stable but if you grab and twist it does move some.
Basically the height change is where the round tank mount rubber fitting is not used and the tank is pulled up as far as it can go before the bolt touches the bottom of that opening. (I put a sliver of gas line hose around the base of the bolt so the threads don't get ruined or vibrate.
If I had it to do over again, (or when I do a complete tear down and restore) I will relocate the tank mount bracket so that the round rubber can be utilized.
Right now the petcock still may rest on the carb but haven't noticed any vibration or rattling. Till I get it sorted out I also put a tiny rubber hose on top of the valve cover bolt.
I went for a little ride today with the new Shinkos on and this thing screams. I haven't even tuned it yet but am very impressed. It is fast off the line but hits another power band about 6k and really kicks in.
Now to make some rubber washers or something to make those rear foot pegs stop rattling.82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
80 gs1000s
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Fast1RP
Shunk Project
Nice bike I met a guy who had a 1150 motor on a gs1000.Motor had a 1229 kit port work . Whatever suits you.:
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Boy did I screw up this time!
I finally got a seat latch and helmet holder to finish off the FauxSkunk pieces it was missing. Previously I had unhooked the battery and all electronics, but this time got absentminded and/or lazy. Now I am having charging issues with the battery. DAMN!
Anyway here is a pic of the seat latch stuff.
82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
80 gs1000s
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