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    #31
    Originally posted by GSX1000E View Post
    You didn't buy that nasty, rusty exhaust that someone posted for sale with no baffle did you???? After you spend tons of time and money making it nice,
    you can buy a new muffler insert for about $50-75.00 plus shipping. Or, you could have bought a NEW V & H for about $360.00 plus shipping.
    Nope, all came with the bike. I'm going to probably get a reverse cone for it later on

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      #32
      Okay, so got some new information. I bought a new starter relay for the bike. Most of the electronic parts are long overdue to be replaced anyway. The battery definitely needed to be charged. I'm not sure exactly what is going on, but the sound of the starter is not as sharp and loud as it was when I first hooked up the battery. It seems like it's turning slower now. So I think it just needs to be charged up a bit more. The new starter relay definitely helped also.

      So where I am now, is that the bike "wheezes". It hasn't coughed yet, but it makes a "pshhh" sound out of the carbs every once in a while while I'm using the starter. What should I do with the vacuum lines on the carbs? Not sure if that has anything to do with it. I think it's really close to starting. I've been starting it with choke full open as well. So any idea what the "psshhh" noise means (how I should adjust to better start it) and what I should do with the vacuum lines?

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        #33
        There's only one vacuum port, on #3, the other 2 are vents. Cap it for now, it's making things lean

        Did you confirm your valve timing while you had the cover off?

        Did you get those broken bolts out?
        1978 GS 1000 (since new)
        1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
        1978 GS 1000 (parts)
        1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
        1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
        1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
        2007 DRz 400S
        1999 ATK 490ES
        1994 DR 350SES

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by Big T View Post
          There's only one vacuum port, on #3, the other 2 are vents. Cap it for now, it's making things lean

          Did you confirm your valve timing while you had the cover off?

          Did you get those broken bolts out?
          Thanks! I'll plug that then. The valves are good. Unfortunately, I was unable to get the bolts out. Once I can get the bike to start, I'm going to balance the carbs, and then once that's all done, I'm going to tear down the engine, go at it piece by piece with Simple Green, and by that point it will be easier to remove those bolts.

          Comment


            #35
            So Im building a 79 1000, and you are going to help me a lot

            Im going to sync my carbs soon. What are you using to sync them? Also interested in what jets you go with because i want to run pods as well...

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              #36
              Originally posted by commandorando View Post
              So Im building a 79 1000, and you are going to help me a lot

              Im going to sync my carbs soon. What are you using to sync them? Also interested in what jets you go with because i want to run pods as well...
              There's about 200 threads on sync tools and probably 500 on jetting

              So, read up a bit, post up Indidual question in the appropriate forum, then start a project thread
              1978 GS 1000 (since new)
              1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
              1978 GS 1000 (parts)
              1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
              1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
              1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
              2007 DRz 400S
              1999 ATK 490ES
              1994 DR 350SES

              Comment


                #37
                just curious what he specifically was using. Not really looking to start my own project thread, not much of a photo guy myself.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by commandorando View Post
                  just curious what he specifically was using. Not really looking to start my own project thread, not much of a photo guy myself.
                  I don't mind sharing what I used. I bought this carb sync gauge: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151518608429...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

                  and a set of jets from SiriusConInc: http://www.siriusconinc.com/search_r...&search=search

                  On a side note, I tried to plug the vacuum port on the carbs, fill them with gas, and run it, but it didn't start. It turns over just fine, but the starter motor sounds really really sluggish. Even when I charge the battery up to like 12 or 13 volts. I also replaced the starter relay, which helped a little bit, but it definitely does not sound as strong and fast to turn over as it did a long time ago (when I originally shot that video). I might buy a new starter motor.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by 1978 View Post
                    I don't mind sharing what I used. I bought this carb sync gauge: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151518608429...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

                    and a set of jets from SiriusConInc: http://www.siriusconinc.com/search_r...&search=search

                    On a side note, I tried to plug the vacuum port on the carbs, fill them with gas, and run it, but it didn't start. It turns over just fine, but the starter motor sounds really really sluggish. Even when I charge the battery up to like 12 or 13 volts. I also replaced the starter relay, which helped a little bit, but it definitely does not sound as strong and fast to turn over as it did a long time ago (when I originally shot that video). I might buy a new starter motor.



                    There is a screw on the very bottom of the float bowl, back it out very slow until gas drips out of it and then tighten it back up. It helps fill the carb with gas. Also, check and name sure the carb is securely attached, if it isn't perfect around those rubber boots it can't suck in gas. Did you check for spark?

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by commandorando View Post
                      There is a screw on the very bottom of the float bowl, back it out very slow until gas drips out of it and then tighten it back up. It helps fill the carb with gas. Also, check and name sure the carb is securely attached, if it isn't perfect around those rubber boots it can't suck in gas. Did you check for spark?
                      No need to open the float bowl screw if the vent line is working. Tapping the float bowl will help to seat a leaking seat though.
                      http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                      1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                      1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                      1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                      Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                      JTGS850GL aka Julius

                      GS Resource Greetings

                      Comment


                        #41
                        I would expect compression numbers to come back up once you start riding it.... Get the rings moving around a bit. It will likely pop, bang & smoke a bit on the first ride or two!
                        1980 GS1000G - Sold
                        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Hello folks!
                          As school is coming to a close for the semester it's going to be time to start working on this bike again! I recently got the opportunity to have my engine dipped / sandblasted by a local speed shop. I'll be going home in a couple weekends to break it down and bring it in for them to look at. The top end is very manageable to strip down, but I'm honestly a little intimidated by the lower end. Do you guys think I need to tear into the lower end and break it all the way down to get it cleaned up? I really would like to but I don't know if I'll be able to get it all back together

                          Comment


                            #43
                            PROGRESS! - Finally!

                            Good news everyone, I've come home from school and spent the past week tearing into the engine. I got it off the bike with some help from a friend. So far, the top end has been successfully disassembled. BBC Speed & Machine in Lyndhurst, NJ is currently dipping the top end and honing the cylinders. In the meantime I started digging into the lower end. With some effort, I got the stator cover off as well as the clutch cover, I removed the clutch, and I'm getting ready to split the case. Oh yeah, and I discovered the source of my problems with the bike turning over!! I had to wrap a couple of the fuses in aluminum foil (bad idea) and it turns out that a bunch of wires from the stator going to the reg / rect melted. I'm really not sure what I was expecting.













                            So the next step is to split the case. Unfortunately, I keep trying to remove these screws behind the clutch and they are horribly stuck. They are at dangerous risk of stripping at this point. Is it necessary to remove these or can I just go ahead and pull the crankcase tightening bolts and wrench it off?

                            Comment


                              #44
                              You need an impact screwdriver to remove those. $ 10-15 tool.
                              1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head :cool:
                              1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017:D

                              I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by Fjbj40 View Post
                                You need an impact screwdriver to remove those. $ 10-15 tool.
                                of course! Don't know why I didn't think of that immediately... Haha well I'm attempting again tomorrow night so I will post some photos!

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