My '81 GS1000G

[Missile99]

Raise the fork above the top clamp first then see if it will turn. If not, strike the top with a metal hammer to shock it free. These shouldn't be that tight or corroded.

[rudeman]

I looked but did not see any mention of loosening the upper triple clamp fork tube pinch bolts. Believe it or not, the only way I can get my fork caps to turn is to first loosen those aforementioned bolts. Also, since the caps are somewhat mangled, it might take an adjustable wrench (spanner) to turn them.

All three of the GS Suzukis I've owned required me to loosen those bolts prior to loosening the fork caps. Apparently there is a considerable amount of clamping force generated by those bolts.

[Missile99]

I looked but did not see any mention of loosening the upper triple clamp fork tube pinch bolts. Believe it or not, the only way I can get my fork caps to turn is to first loosen those aforementioned bolts. Also, since the caps are somewhat mangled, it might take an adjustable wrench (spanner) to turn them.

All three of the GS Suzukis I've owned required me to loosen those bolts prior to loosening the fork caps. Apparently there is a considerable amount of clamping force generated by those bolts.

That's what my point was essentially. Raise the fork caps above the clamp, tighten the clamp a bit and then try. His caps seem to be bound by the clamp because the fork sits low. My caps sit above the clamp as a norm.

[azr]

like everyone here is saying, raise the fork above the triple clamp a bit so you can get at it, then clamp it again so the fork doesn't move. I'd soak the heck out of it with your favorite agent and then pray. It might be too late now but I NEVER use vise grips on aluminum....or it ends up looking like your picture. Heat will also help soften things up.

[mushroom]

I looked but did not see any mention of loosening the upper triple clamp fork tube pinch bolts. Believe it or not, the only way I can get my fork caps to turn is to first loosen those aforementioned bolts. Also, since the caps are somewhat mangled, it might take an adjustable wrench (spanner) to turn them.

All three of the GS Suzukis I've owned required me to loosen those bolts prior to loosening the fork caps. Apparently there is a considerable amount of clamping force generated by those bolts.

You hit the nail on the head
I loosened the top yoke clamps and was able to turn the 22mm fork cap with no problem

[mushroom]

So I fitted new seals today and just went to put the preload caps back on.
Is there supposed to be an o-ring where my screwdriver is pointing ?
I don't want to get it all fitted up and have a problem but saying that it wasn't on there before and it wasn't leaking
Any ideas ?

[JTGS850GL]

Looks like, from the drawing you posted on post #11 above, it shows an O-ring in that grove. It also looks like a non-critical backup seal as no oil should be getting through to that point if the plunger O-ring is in good working order. Maybe just a dust seal to keep crud from getting to the threads.

[Flyboy]

No o-ring there, that lip has to tighten up against the top of the fork stanchion, tightening the cap down would destroy any O-ring there.

[mushroom]

No o-ring there, that lip has to tighten up against the top of the fork stanchion, tightening the cap down would destroy any O-ring there.

Thanks for your help

[mushroom]

So with the preload caps I should have 213ml of fork oil in each fork, thats 426ml in total
I drained this black stinky stuff out of both forks and it's not even close to 350ml
Good job I hadn't ridden it yet

[Brendan W]

So with the preload caps I should have 213ml of fork oil in each fork, thats 426ml in total
I drained this black stinky stuff out of both forks and it's not even close to 350ml
Good job I hadn't ridden it yet

I found some crud in the forks that was preventing them from draining fully and could get more out by poking the hole a bit. I'm on my third fill in a year and it's only starting to look reasonable now.