1981 GS1100E build

[mrbill5491]

The GS1100Ls didn't have the alloy swing arm, they came with the tube steel one. The E and the L both had the leading axles on them. But like blowerbike said, it has had L parts scabbed to it. Why would someone do that??

[Stockis4bitches]

Either way like I said before, I don't care what it was before I am making ut be what I want it to be. Which is just going to be bad ass. I am getting the wheels cleaned up and the rear swing arm. Still waiting on the seat to arrive, it's coming from England so it might take a while.

[Stockis4bitches]

Panel in work for the right side near the brake booster. I am making side panels for it because I am not to keen on the look of nothing in the middle. Here is the final product after I bent it into place (not a fun task btw)

[Rob S.]

Panty dropper?

Is that like a pussy magnet?

If it is, I want one. Where do I send the check?

[Stockis4bitches]

Panty dropper?

Is that like a pussy magnet?

If it is, I want one. Where do I send the check?

Yes, make it so bad ass the panties just melt off. Just follow the thread and then when it's complete you'll see what I mean. Projected completion date is April 2015.

[Stockis4bitches]

Electrical panel relocated to behind the battery. It will be welded in place with access from either side.

[mikerophone]

You've been busy, and made some good progress so far. You might want to look into replacing that stock regulator/rectifier before you weld your relocated electrical panel in there. The replacements are larger, but better and you'll want to plan for their size increase on your panel.

The R/R is a well documented weak point on these bikes. Look into the SH–775 or a Compufire and take a look at the stator, if it's crispy, it'll need replacing too. Usually the rectifier diodes melt and the stator shorts to ground and cooks - if it hasn't given up yet you may be okay just replacing the R/R with a series unit like the two I listed. Also if you haven't already, download the manual from Basscliffs website and also perform the revised stator tests.

[posplayr]

Electrical panel relocated to behind the battery. It will be welded in place with access from either side.

get rid of that fisebox

[Stockis4bitches]

get rid of that fisebox

suggestions for a new one? Im an F.N.G. here.

[Stockis4bitches]

You've been busy, and made some good progress so far. You might want to look into replacing that stock regulator/rectifier before you weld your relocated electrical panel in there. The replacements are larger, but better and you'll want to plan for their size increase on your panel.

The R/R is a well documented weak point on these bikes. Look into the SH–775 or a Compufire and take a look at the stator, if it's crispy, it'll need replacing too. Usually the rectifier diodes melt and the stator shorts to ground and cooks - if it hasn't given up yet you may be okay just replacing the R/R with a series unit like the two I listed. Also if you haven't already, download the manual from Basscliffs website and also perform the revised stator tests.

Thanks man I will look into them! are they direct replacments? or need a little wiring?

[BigD_83]

suggestions for a new one? Im an F.N.G. here.

Posplayr's solid state powerbox (Search SSPB thread) is one choice. An Eastern Beaver power center is another.

[growler]

Yes, make it so bad ass the panties just melt off. Just follow the thread and then when it's complete you'll see what I mean. Projected completion date is April 2015.

[mikerophone]

Thanks man I will look into them! are they direct replacments? or need a little wiring?

They are not direct replacements as in plug and play, but there is no "re" wiring needed unless you get a 6 wire unit like a Honda unit. Super easy if you don't mind soldering or have a quality crimp tool. Three wires go to the stator (usually yellow, no way to get them wrong - hook any yellow to another yellow they are all just A/C) from the stator, one hot wire to the battery or preferably to the red "T" wire that is upstream slightly from the fusebox and the ground goes to the frame as close to the unit as possible, ideally to a SPG (Single Point Ground).

PosPlayr has lots of posts about this, he helped me with mine and sells a great fusebox replacement called the SSPB as BigD_83 stated above and he is considering doing a version II. He has the CompuFire unit as well, as seen in that link.

Do at least a cursory search on the R/R replacement - lots of knowledge and discussion on this topic here. I got the CompuFire 55402 on Amazon shipped for $165 and I have heard of Shindengen/Polaris SH-775 for half of that as well, and there are people that will tell you that they have 30+ year old stock R/R's that have no issues with 10's of thousands of miles on them but it is honestly only a matter of time ESPECIALLY if you change out your bulbs from stock incandesants to LED like I did. My R/R literally only had 5,000 miles on it when it blew, but I didn't do the research and thought I was saving power by upgrading to all LED's. Well I was saving power but the extra power had to go somewhere. And it did - it went to ground. And took out my R/R in the process.

At the very minimum for now, perform the checks on the stator and R/R and replace any burnt connections, clean up/protect the power, fusebox, battery and R/R connections with dielectric grease or De-Oxit and make sure your grounds are excellent but you'll be replacing that R/R eventually, don't let it take out the expensive stator when it goes...

[Stockis4bitches]

Thanks for all the good info Microphone. This is my first bike build, so when it comes to R/R and fuse blocks I am clueless. I am looking to replace the R/R and the fuse block as well. I have emailed the SSPB guy to see if he has any in stock or when the next ones will be ready for shipping. I figure I am restoring the bike so why not have parts that work, instead of 30+ year old dinosaurs. I have rebuilt the wiring harness already adding my connector to the new R/R and the fuse block is easy stuff. I have replaced all the stock connectors and repaired the wire that was smashed/cut/sliced, etc. It was a hot mess when I started pulling it apart. I will be getting some dielectric grease before the bike goes back together.

[mikerophone]

I figure I am restoring the bike so why not have parts that work, instead of 30+ year old dinosaurs.

Definitely. You never know what half a$$ed stuff the previous owner did or didn't do as well.

Check your carb boots to air sure they're soft and pliable if you haven't alteady as well as the obvious things like cables, vac and fuel lines and brakes and if you're doing pods, order the appropriate jets, dip those carbs, but don't buy a "carb rebuild kit", just order new orings from cycleorings.com and check the date codes on the tires too.