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Originally posted by Stockis4bitches
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On the engine, the cooling fins? Sounds problematic to me.1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after. -
The primer should just be a light dusting. It is primer, not paint, way to many people treat primer like paint. The color coat should be 2 medium coverage coats.
As others said 7 coats of paint is way too much, you are baking a "pig in a blanket" with that much.1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head :cool:
1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017:D
I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.Comment
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Well this is exactly why I made this forum to go along with the build. Well I only have the "light dusting" on the engine now. One can for the entire engine. Thanks for the advice, like I stated before this is my first rebuild. I'm only going off of what I read online and past experience with painting stuff.Comment
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OK so its been some time since I have posted an update on the bike. here are some pictures, i haven't been taking as many pictures because I am just trying to get this thing completed. Looking at ordering some shocks next week for the rear and I will be rebuilding the fronts.
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UPS rocking a monroe transfer, for you virgin minds...GTS!
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Engine and swing arm installedComment
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80-81 "E" had leading axle forks. The lower tree is also from an "E". Note the air cap and cross bleeders.Comment
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What do you mean leading axel forks. As said before I have not the slightest if this thing is actually a "complete E" that's what the title says. As for the forks, well the crossover I have is broken. Stupidest design ever!Comment
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here she is fellas! Almost complete. Gotta slap the carbs back on after I powder coat them and pray like hell I got the wiring correct. Let me know what you guys think!Comment
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Looks great! Good luck with the wiring, it can be a pain and I know you made changes from stock, which can complicate or simplify things, depending... Did you bench sync the carbs?----------------------------------------------------------------
2014 BMW F800GSA | 1981 GS850GX | 1982 GS750T (now the son-in-laws) | 1983 GS750ES | 1983 Honda V45 Magna (needs some love) | 1980 Yamaha GT80 and LB80 "Chappy" | 1973 and 1975 Honda XL250 projectsComment
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I rebuilt the wiring harness. I drew a schematic before I took it apart too. The PO had it all jacked up. So with the stock wiring guide and some eff this and mother effer that I hope it's right. The carbs are synced but I was told by another GSer to not use the stock jetting because I am running pods and after market exhaust. So I was going to ask around and do more research on it. Any input would be great!Originally posted by mikerophone View PostComment
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Sounds like you're all over the wiring - but yes you may have some eff this and eff thats with it anyway.
Yes definitely not going to be stock jetting with the pods and pipe but other than my Kerker, all my pipes are stock and all my bikes run stock air boxes. I'll glean what I can from this forum when I tackle my 78 750 as it was already all hacked up when I got it.----------------------------------------------------------------
2014 BMW F800GSA | 1981 GS850GX | 1982 GS750T (now the son-in-laws) | 1983 GS750ES | 1983 Honda V45 Magna (needs some love) | 1980 Yamaha GT80 and LB80 "Chappy" | 1973 and 1975 Honda XL250 projectsComment
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Anyone have carb kit recommendations for my bike with pods and exhaust?Comment
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Dj 3133 ...............
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Ok GS geniuses so I can't get this thing to stay running longer than 30 seconds and has an extremely high idle here's a list of **** I have already done. I can't get it to crank over without cheater fluid (starting fluid). Small spray on the pods and it cranks right up but idles high and dies after about 30 seconds or as soon as I touch the throttle. And I'm using the choke to start. Idle screw is completely unscrewed (because of high idling).
1 Cleaned carbs completely
2 installed dynajet carb kit stage 3 for pods and exhaust
3 installed new plugs
4 installed pods
5 checked for good spark
6 bench synced carbs (I can't sync any more until it's running right?)
7 checked fuel and using clean gas
Any help would be really appreciated. thanks guys.Comment
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I'd say when you bench synced it you put the butterflies too far open. Try closing up the sync screws.Comment
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I will give that a shot. any idea what the rubber plugs are that go into the pilot jet carbs? It doesn't seem right to me, it seems like it would block off the fuel flow to the pilot jets. any idea how to best bench sync the carbs? i used the needle method and stated with carb 2 to 3 then 1 to 2 and then 3 to 4 for the bench sync. Wouldn't this stay running though after it was started? It seems to me that the engine is getting to much air or not enough spark...I need help here. any advice is much appreciated.Comment
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