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Joe G's 1100 project

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  • Steve
    replied
    Originally posted by Joe Garfield View Post
    The major work: carbs removed, disassembled and soaked, and reinstalled, valves adjusted, and carbs synchronized. I utilized one of the advertised services in the Classifieds section and got a lot more than I bargained for. Which is the biggest understatement of 2014.
    If that is a complaint, I can see that the 'bargain' is adjusted.



    Originally posted by londonboards View Post
    Did you get a vacuum gauge to do the sync? Makes a huge difference.
    Yep, genuine mercury 'sticks' were used.

    .

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  • londonboards
    replied
    Scotchbrite is the way to go for those fork lowers. I was able to go from this:



    with a lot of elbow grease but you are better off stripping the varnish first:



    eventually it will look like this (keep doing the scotchbrite horizontally):





    When they are in this state they are very susceptible to being marked; even by fingers and they will retain any grease and dull over time. My solution was some 2 K clear laquer.

    I don't know anything about coils so I am following your progress on this. Make sure you put in all the extra ground loops from rectifier to battery and from battery holder (where the black and white wire is attached) back to the battery terminal.

    Did you get a vacuum gauge to do the sync? Makes a huge difference.

    This is what mine sounded like before synching. It could also be valve adjustment if it is only happening on one cylinder:



    Greetings

    Leave a comment:


  • Joe Garfield
    Guest replied
    I am realizing I need to get better at taking 'before' pics!

    The major work: carbs removed, disassembled and soaked, and reinstalled, valves adjusted, and carbs synchronized. I utilized one of the advertised services in the Classifieds section which turned out to be an amazing experience

    The bike still pops at high RPM on the stand. Between that, having had 3 of 4 header pipes change color, and just my general curiosity, I performed a late night investigation of the ignition coils. I got nothing across the boots for nos. 1 and 4, and with the boots removed and wires cut back 1/4" I only got 11.x kOhms as opposed to the 29.9 kOhms across 2 and 3. I am open to thoughts or suggestions. Considering these coils and wires are 32 years old it seems like I should just change them out, but maybe I'm a little hesitant since I haven't had the bike running/riding right yet.

    Anyway...
    I played around a little with Meguiar's Ultimate Black and am amazed at the results. This was really just a prelim test to see how well it worked, but most things that got a first coat don't need much more. The top of the headlight bucket was really bad and needed 4+ coats, so still working that but everything looks so much newer and nicer. We will see how long it lasts...

    I found some melting wires/connectors behind the headlight (a bare hot wire, plus the loop for stator/RR circuit) and repaired them with stock style connectors and pins from Z1, and just did a basic cleaning off= the wiring and contacts. I still need to re-route some wires and cables.

    I played with a Scotchbrite pad on one of the forks and am pretty happy with the results. The green pad is enough to scrub away the yellowing and peeling clearcoat, but is not overly abrasive. A few quick oriented swipes puts a nice machine-like satin finish on them. I just did a small spot so there is plenty to do before taking pics.

    I ordered Sonic springs and new fork seals, so one of the next projects is a fork overhaul. I need to remove and re-bend the bracket for the gauges and straighten out the front fender.

    I'll get some pics posted in a day or two, but nothing is really complete at the moment.
    Last edited by Guest; 12-08-2014, 05:31 PM.

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  • Joe Garfield
    Guest replied
    Thanks Richard, I have been looking for pics of a similar bike with rearsets.

    I need to start working on the engine gaskets and carbs. After getting the new muffler installed I ran the bike just enough to test the stators, and the new headers are already discolored. Maybe I will start taking things apart this weekend. It has been really busy at work, especially with 2 classes going on at the same time.

    I did try a little polish on my mirror stem. I am amazed at how so much rust basically just wiped off. One of the stems is a little pitted still. I also was playing with the mirror angle and it started to come loose, so I figured now is a good time to learn what holds it all together. The internals look easy enough to repair or replace. I have one dent in the back of one mirror that I want to try to pop out first. I am bad with the 'before' pics, but I will try. Although I don't know what that's worth since apparently my photos are vanishing...

    Does anyone have a good link for a homemade lift or stand that works well with the GS bikes? I am thinking I'd like to have the frame on a dolly but am open to suggestions. For a longer term project a traditional hydraulic lift doesn't seem to make a lot of sense.
    Last edited by Guest; 11-15-2014, 12:49 AM.

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  • londonboards
    replied
    Joe - I made the following mods to my 1100G for longer distance comfort: Long Distance GS1100G Mods and found the changed peg position to be the most helpful of all:





    These were from Raask in Sweden. Expensive and not the best quality but they were made for the bike. You might find something locally that you could adapt. Putting your legs further back allows your legs to help support your body weight rather than the usual US sitting position (cruiser style) in which the whole body weight is supported only by your butt.

    Greetings

    Leave a comment:


  • Joe Garfield
    Guest replied
    Photo test: A few more pics from the craigslist ad. I don't know how old the pics are, the bike doesn't look that clean; there were a lot of oil leaks when I got it. My garage is not big and my trailer's blocking the door at the moment so I don't have room for fresh pics. That will change next week.







    Also a couple of pics of an ignition coil. You can see how much of an oil mess is being made under the tank. And those coils sure look their age!
    Last edited by Guest; 11-15-2014, 12:46 AM. Reason: Adding second pic

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  • Joe Garfield
    Guest replied
    Thank you! I am excited for this bike. My last bike was a 2001 Triumph Sprint, which was really top heavy and really long, and difficult for my to handle well. It had more than enough power at normal riding RPM but I was never able to find a smooth sweet spot for accelerating from a stop in city driving. The 1100g has both of those things.

    I would like to see the difference in seats - the seat is one thing I have been wondering what to do with.

    I had an '82 650GL, it was a great first bike. I thought I was going to get an L when I joined this site a few weeks ago. However, I got to see Steve's stable and compare, and was immediately hooked on the G. The 1000 or 1100 seemed like a no brainer since it's the same size as an 850 and technically a few lbs lighter. I find that it is very versatile in terms of riding position - you can load it up with baggage, windscreen, floor boards if you want.. or you can set it up for a more forward/aggressive position (which is my plan - slightly lower bars, possibly move the pegs slightly aft...). It has the power to do both well, and I was happy to learn it doesn't have the 'step function' power band of the 850 (just personal preference). It has great low end power for riding around town, plenty of top end power to cause trouble, and seems to be happy anywhere in between. Of course, when I get it all tuned up I might be in for a pleasant surprise

    My exhaust looked OK- most of the surface rust was on the header pipes and the mufflers looked good. What I didn't realize was it had been drilled out and the baffles removed. It was a clean job and looked decent but too loud for suburbia and the bike is running too lean as it is. I bought a set of gently used L pipes off another member and they installed OK - not perfect but they don't look bad and they will certainly hold me over til the rest of the repairs are done. I have been thinking a little about a mod down the road but haven't put too much thought into it yet. I was happy to see the L pipes all hooked up and working.

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  • GSX1000E
    Guest replied
    Although the GS1000G is arguably the best all-around shaft driven G model, the 1100G is the cream of the crop. (I have 3 if you count the GK)
    The seat on the 1000 is a little better but the 1100 seat can be modified to be similar. The extra stroke of the 1100 engine adds enough torque to notice a difference.
    Besides, the 1100G has nicer rims and fuel tank design.

    Leave a comment:


  • Charlie G
    replied
    Congratulations on a fine bike. I have an 82 and an 83. Just got the 83 running last August and have put close to 4500 miles on it since. Fantastic, comfortable ride, which is able to keep up with most others, assuming you have the skill and nerve. You sure live in the heartland of GS owners. Be sure to tap into their knowledge.

    cg
    Last edited by Charlie G; 11-07-2014, 04:04 PM.

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  • storm 64
    replied
    Yeah Mr.Garfield, I think your motorcycle will clean up real nice. It looks to be in about the same condition as my 82 850 when I got it. How is your exhaust system? Mine was okay i did remove it to clean and wire wheel and paint the pre-muffler. There are a few more things I have to do. Like you said we have all winter... I think you'll like your 1100G very much."Mr Garfield" inside joke from his other thread

    Leave a comment:


  • Joe Garfield
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by londonboards View Post
    I've got a couple of these beasts myself and some time ago I put together a thread that contains all the best of this Forum for this bike in one post. Have a look here:

    Ultimate Shaftie GS1100 Thread

    It will give you lots of good advice.

    Greetings
    Thank you, Sir!

    Leave a comment:


  • Joe Garfield
    Guest replied
    Interesting. My bike lists P/N 44541-49400 which is out of stock at many places, and cross-referencing at Alpha says that part is only on my generation G (82-83 G and GK). Maybe they used the leaf of a different rubber tree in the mold or something (joking). Considering it's likely all coming from Suzuki Japan, I don't know how it makes sense for one supplier to list it available and others to say its out of stock

    Anyway I was happy to save a few bucks on quite a few "2.49" parts - even after shipping - so it should all work out. It looks like Monday might be the last day warm enough to ride for a while so I'm in no rush. With the charging system working, the tachometer seal no longer making a mess, and the starting troubles linked to a faulty fuel cock, I am feeling pretty good about things
    Last edited by Guest; 11-07-2014, 09:14 AM.

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  • londonboards
    replied
    I've got a couple of these beasts myself and some time ago I put together a thread that contains all the best of this Forum for this bike in one post. Have a look here:

    Ultimate Shaftie GS1100 Thread

    It will give you lots of good advice.

    Greetings

    Leave a comment:


  • Steve
    replied
    Originally posted by Joe Garfield View Post
    I was randomly searching the web for a part that seemed to be out of stock (center tank pad) in a few places and came to their site.
    No need to do any "random searching", just go to Parts Outlaw.
    CUSHION, CENTER 44541-34500 $6.56

    Just keep in mind that virtually none of the online vendors have all (or any) of these parts in stock, and will have to order them from the main warehouse(s).

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • Joe Garfield
    Guest replied
    Thanks! I will gladly accept compliments on the bike The pic is from the Craigslist ad. I think this bike is going to come out nice.

    I just bought a bunch of small stuff from KYHNC.com, a Kawa/Suzi dealer in NC. I was randomly searching the web for a part that seemed to be out of stock (center tank pad) in a few places and came to their site. They have all the 'cheap' gaskets/screws for under $2.49 so I bought about $50 worth of small parts. Hopefully it is all legit. Tomorrow I will update my spreadsheet and start ordering the rest of the engine gaskets.
    Last edited by Guest; 11-07-2014, 12:16 AM.

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