Restoring to factory glory

[Guest]

Hey guys and gals,



A little background on me. I went to school for motorcycle and small engine repair. Got my degree in that and then went back to school for marine engine repair. Apparently they are two different programs. Worked in the industry for about 3 years, got sick of the low pay and switched to a technology job. Now I run all of the applications and software for a bank.


1979 Suzuki GS750EN

I copy and pasted this from another forum that I frequent



So this is my winter project that i thought I would share with you. I picked up this beauty in November for a whopping $700. Guy told me he "went through everything and its in top running condition". Well I go the bike home and the carbs started leaking instantly. So i pulled the tank and carbs. Did a full rebuild with new o-rings, cleaned the jets, set the float height ect. Then it came time to check the valve clearances as thats probably the most looked over part of maintenance for any bike. Well every valve was too tight to get even my smallest 0.02 feeler gauge into. So I had to get a smaller shim and run it through ever valve to get a baseline of what I needed. Finally got all the shims needed and put them all in. Ended up twisting a bolt off on the cam holder. Nothing a left handed drill bit and an EZ-out cant fix. New gaskets and shes back together. Adjusted the clutch actuater and and cable so now its how its suppose to feel. Im not quite done with her as i need to get new wheel bearings, tires, brake lines ect. Ill try to keep this updated. In the mean time, here are some pictures:



Just got her back home





Tank and Carbs off. Very dirty





valve cover off





This was almost a bad night





The zip ties help keep the valves open when pulling the shims out





Might as well pull the cams out so its easier to put the new shims in





This is a good tool to speed up installing bolts that cant be torqued too high as would happen with my impact





These are as good as everyone says



All buttoned up. For now

[GS1150Pilot]

Nice work, cool bike!

[cjanderson_90]

Thank you. Im surprised at how fairly modern the bike looks. Needs new paint but I ask people what year they think it is and its usually early 2000s

[chuck hahn]

Easy to do shims without removing cams. Just a little flat tip to pop in the notch to lift them and some hemos to grab them out. I have the bucket depressing tool too. Have done the zip tie method also but the toll makes life easier and faster....least thats my opinion.

[GS1150Pilot]

I think the retros like the ZRX, Zephyr and Big One have helped perpetuate that notion.

[Nessism]

Agree on adjusting the valves without removing the cams.

Be sure to torque the cylinder head while the nuts are easily accessible.

Please check the newbie mistakes thread linked in my signature. It will help you be aware of some common pitfalls in GS restoration.

Good luck.

[eil]

Nice bike and thanks for the detailed write-up and photos!

If the the bike hasn't seen any real maintenance in the last few decades, also put rebuilding the brakes on top of your todo list. Even if they seem to work, old brake fluid does a number on the master cylinders and calipers and you really don't want them to fail. Highly recommend replacing the brake lines with braided stainless steel ones if you're still rocking the factory lines. (Which would be about 34 years past their expiration date.)

Welcome!

[GSX1000E]

Also do not forget to clean EVERY electrical connection on it as well as adding at least two more ground wires. (One from starter solenoid/RR plate to battery and one from battery to ground.)

[cjanderson_90]

Easy to do shims without removing cams. Just a little flat tip to pop in the notch to lift them and some hemos to grab them out. I have the bucket depressing tool too. Have done the zip tie method also but the toll makes life easier and faster....least thats my opinion.

After I got them all checked for clearances, i thought it would just easier to pull the cams. It was a little faster i think to replace them, plus i got a little more familiar with the bike

Agree on adjusting the valves without removing the cams.

Be sure to torque the cylinder head while the nuts are easily accessible.

Please check the newbie mistakes thread linked in my signature. It will help you be aware of some common pitfalls in GS restoration.

Good luck.

I have torqued all bolts to spec. And i have read the newbie mistakes. And I've avoided them all. This is the 7th bike Ive owned. My first full bottom end/top end rebuild was done when I was 18. Ive built bikes that have won best in show for the Japanese class. Hope I havent forgot everything I've learned!

Nice bike and thanks for the detailed write-up and photos!

If the the bike hasn't seen any real maintenance in the last few decades, also put rebuilding the brakes on top of your todo list. Even if they seem to work, old brake fluid does a number on the master cylinders and calipers and you really don't want them to fail. Highly recommend replacing the brake lines with braided stainless steel ones if you're still rocking the factory lines. (Which would be about 34 years past their expiration date.)

Definately on the list of things for this winter. Along with new springs up front and probably in the rear

Welcome!

Also do not forget to clean EVERY electrical connection on it as well as adding at least two more ground wires. (One from starter solenoid/RR plate to battery and one from battery to ground.)

Electrical issues will be the death of me. But ive been fairly proactive with checking the electrical connections ect.

Thanks for the kind words everyone! Hope to get this old bike back on the road again soon!

[growler]

nice work, and a good lookin' bike to boot.

[chuck hahn]

Take this into consideration when doing shims..youre running a steel bolt into aluminum and steel is hard and will wear then threads out eventually...little by little from repeated removals and installations. the shim toll was made to avoid this removal of the bolts and not tear things up.

8 bucks or some fat zip tie is the way to go to avoid the heart stopping moment the bolt strips or breaks. Thats my take on it.

[cjanderson_90]

I think the next time a valve adjustment comes up, ill buy the tool. That seems much easier.

[chuck hahn]

I use a screw driver to hold the tool on the rim of the bucket as I depress it so it doesnt slip off. Its real easy to do once you do the first few. Rotate the slot ( notch ) in the bucket so its facing where you can get in and pop the shim up, depress the bucket and pop the shim up, grab with the hemos and pull the shim out.

[cjanderson_90]

Now ive read about the RR swap to help with the charging. How many of you also change the stator to a new one? I mean for around $200 I can get a new stator and RR. That would make me more comfortable but how necessary is it(stator)?

[eil]

If the stator tests good (the procedure is in the service manual), then there's no reason to change it. Stators typically only go bad from overheating due to a malfunctioning R/R.