Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Anyone experienced with painting there own bike body parts?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Lot o' eye candy on this page, scrolled through it twice.

    Comment


      #17
      I don't need the best paint. Just a good quality paint that isnt going to break the bank.

      Comment


        #18
        Go with the restoration line on the link I gave and you'll be happy.
        http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
        1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
        1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
        1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

        Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

        JTGS850GL aka Julius

        GS Resource Greetings

        Comment


          #19
          One of the problems you run into when painting is the paint quantities far exceed the need most of the time. Paint isn't cheap either. One quart of epoxy primer is enough to paint at least two or three bikes when you add in the hardener.



          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #20
            What Nessism says is true.I'm hoping the local supplier here I use will do me pintsEven my 85 750EF which has more bodywork than most doesn't need more than a pint of base or clear.Prep is defiantly the key,cut corners on the EF and will be redoing it

            Comment


              #21
              Alright im going to check out the restoration line of paint.

              Now the types of coats I need is the Epoxy primer, then the 2k urethane primer, basecoat and then the clear coat correct?
              Want to make sure I have that right!

              Comment


                #22
                If you want a quality paint at an affordable price look into SPI.

                Southern Polyurethanes is a manufacturer of automotive coatings for the restoration, repair and custom markets. Epoxy Primers, Clear coats, Primers, Basecoat, Single Stage and more.


                I have read about painters another another forum I frequent that have switched and will never go back to the expensive name brand paints. From my understanding the majority of them that have used the paint will agree that it outperforms the name brands at a huge cost savings.

                They don't have a big selection in base colors so many of the guys will spray a compatible base with the SPI clear. Their epoxy primer is also very well regarded.

                I haven't used SPI myself but respect the guys on that forum. I have used PPG cheaper line of Omni paint and their Concept clear. I would like to try it myself but haven't had any painting projects lately.

                They also have a forum if you have any questions about their product.

                Last edited by Guest; 02-02-2015, 09:28 AM.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by irishluck View Post
                  Alright im going to check out the restoration line of paint.

                  Now the types of coats I need is the Epoxy primer, then the 2k urethane primer, basecoat and then the clear coat correct?
                  Want to make sure I have that right!
                  That's what I've used. The Epoxy primer/sealer to seal bare metal, the urethane sandable primer to prepare the surface for color, base color coat and then the clear. Just make sure that all the components are compatible and that anything other then bare metal or plastic is compatible as well. The sealer will help prevent any lifting as well. Don't forget to use the correct reducer. You can use a real cheap reducer to clean your gun but use the good stuff rated at the correct temperature that you're going to shoot the paint at. There are slow, medium and fast reducers. The higher the ambient temperature the slower the reducer needs to be. So planning paint day can be a bit of a challenge if you're shooting outdoors. Things to consider are ambient temperature, humidity and dust. If you can build yourself a simple paint booth you can minimize dust and shoot the paint without much color sanding. Practice spray patterns on a scrap piece in order to get the hang of your gun and it's settings.

                  As Nessism said, you don't need a lot of material. 1 pint will shoot two bikes and most things don't come in pints. Some colors are more expensive then others as well.
                  http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                  1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                  1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                  1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                  Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                  JTGS850GL aka Julius

                  GS Resource Greetings

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                    You could probably find plenty of links describing what you need if you use the search. Nessism (Ed) has become one of the local DIY experts) as distinguished form the real experts (like Nvr2old)that have been doing this professionally for a long time.

                    I've tried my hand at painting and got lucky a few times...........







                    Very nice job.
                    http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                    1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                    1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                    1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                    Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                    JTGS850GL aka Julius

                    GS Resource Greetings

                    Comment


                      #25
                      If your body work is good you don't need the 2k filler. Use catalyzed spot putty to fill minor low spots. The epoxy primer will build a little so laying down an extra layer or two of that will help too.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Ah okay. I didn't know that was what the 2k was for. My body filler will be spotless. I take my time on that and sand it to a finish smooth.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Good to hear. It's the prep work that makes a paint job look it's best.
                          http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                          1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                          1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                          1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                          Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                          JTGS850GL aka Julius

                          GS Resource Greetings

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Most defiantly. Hows that saying go? Prep is 90% work

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Anyone used that eastwood primer or paints?

                              Comment


                                #30
                                powdercoating is always an option as well. cheaper, and come out just as good IMO. personally done four tanks at work, heres a couple examples i have done



                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X