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GS550E Project "Kafebiku"
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DohcBikes
What about rear tire clearance, you have reduced it by around 3-4", how do you plan to address that?
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gordinho80
I like what you've done so far. I'll likely be using some of your design work as inspiration for some modifications for my bike in the near future.
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DohcBikes
Originally posted by Evo-Jet View PostStiffer shocks and a bit of ride height.
"Stiffer shocks" is not a good solution for a clearance issue. Mostly because it wont solve it because it can still bottom out. The only reason to increase spring rate is to tune the ride. Using stiffer shocks to address clearance issues caused by an aesthetic modification is also a way of saying that you are willing to sacrifice safety and performance to achieve a "look".
You can defend the mods all you like, it's your bike. I'm just telling you the fact that it isn't the way to do it. I'd like nothing more than the trend to go from hard headed first timers that keep making the same mistakes as the ones before them to seeing people use the practical and experienced advice that is in this generation available at your fingertips for free.Last edited by Guest; 12-21-2016, 01:44 PM.
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Originally posted by DohcBikes View PostRise in height through longer shocks usually also comes with even more suspension travel. I am sure you are also aware of the changes in handling characteristics the result from modifying a motorcycles suspension geometry, which is less my concern than what happens when your rear tire smashes into the hoop in a corner.
"Stiffer shocks" is not a good solution for a clearance issue. Mostly because it wont solve it because it can still bottom out. The only reason to increase spring rate is to tune the ride. Using stiffer shocks to address clearance issues caused by an aesthetic modification is also a way of saying that you are willing to sacrifice safety and performance to achieve a "look".
I misspoke, meant stiffer springs. I'll let you know how it goes. If it sucks then I'll chuck it all in the bin and start over.
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DohcBikes
Or you could fix it now and not be so stubborn. I even have pictures and everything to show you how, if you are willing to view them one at a time
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Originally posted by DohcBikes View PostOr you could fix it now and not be so stubborn. I even have pictures and everything to show you how, if you are willing to view them one at a time
You have a point, and thank you again.
I will try the swing arm and my old wheel in there to see what I am working with.
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DohcBikes
Originally posted by Evo-Jet View PostI'd love to take a look.
You have a point, and thank you again.
I will try the swing arm and my old wheel in there to see what I am working with.
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Originally posted by DohcBikes View PostGreat! I will post pics in a couple hours of a mod I came up with that can gain you a couple inches without having to sacrifice the look you are going for. Lucky you, it is specifically demonstrated on a 550E. Shall return.#1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
#2: 1978 GS 550 EC "Blue" – Can't make it a donor / "Rebuild" thread Manuals (and much more): See Cliff's homepage here
#3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
#4: 1980 Moto Guzzi V65C – Something to chill
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Originally posted by roeme View PostWhile you're at it, can you also quickly highlight how much clearance the hoop takes away at this location? From memory, I wouldn't have thought the fender goes much higher than about 2cm/~1inch than the frame there. Is the rear tire with stock dimensions even allowed to travel this near to the fender? I would've thought the shocks bottom out first. Hmm
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DohcBikes
Its easy to see in the pictures in this thread.
Question for you.... How do you think that i learned not to build ujm subframes that way....hint....not on the internet
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Originally posted by DohcBikes View PostIts easy to see in the pictures in this thread.
Could've sworn the fender's curve doesn't go that high.
Originally posted by DohcBikes View PostQuestion for you.... How do you think that i learned not to build ujm subframes that way....hint....not on the internet#1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
#2: 1978 GS 550 EC "Blue" – Can't make it a donor / "Rebuild" thread Manuals (and much more): See Cliff's homepage here
#3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
#4: 1980 Moto Guzzi V65C – Something to chill
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DohcBikes
The top of the tire goes considerably higher than the frame rail when under full compression. That's why suzuki [and others] put that big ol arched brace frame rail to frame rail. Install a flat seat pan, and a hoop that doesn't kick at all, and you've gauranteed a clearance issue.
Yes a lesson fought through several builds, tried everything mentioned earlier to combat the issue early in my customizing experience, but continued to end up with tire rub, and eventually had to admit to myself that i was doing it wrong. Even if you don't see rub at first, you'll ride it harder and harder, and eventually it will show up. Regardless whether it causes an accident, a tire even near rubbing the frame is just wrong. I built my first "brat/cafe/whatever" quite some time ago, which coincidentally was a gs750 and have made every mistake that I warn others against. Eventually did move on stylistically [got older] but of course still have a fondness for minimalistic builds, when done correctly. That is why these type of builds attract me.
Pics soon.Last edited by Guest; 12-21-2016, 04:02 PM.
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DohcBikes
All pics 075.jpg
Although this subframe is not quite as long as yours, it should demonstrate fairly well the process of creating more clearance practically. I' will post a few pics then an explanation/disclaimer and answer any questions you might have afterwords.
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