1984 Katana 7/11

[Greg B]

If you're going to use Katana instruments, there is no provision for hooking up the temp sensor.
If you just want to plug the hole, remember, it 1/8-28 BSPT. Not 1/8-27 NPT.

[pete]

Cheers Greg, the plan is to use an Acewell 1500 but the 1600 has provisions for a temperature sensor. Not sure it's worth the extra $$ just for that though, there's a big difference between them.

Thanks for the thread tip too, I was going to use my thread gauge in my tap and die set to check it out, just saved me some time

[hillsy]

The threads on that output shaft look a bit dodgy, Pete.

[nvr2old]

The body work and finished frame are nice incentives to keep you inspired, eh Pete? Love the look. Are you going to paint the engine all silver, or all black, or a combination? A black engine, polished edges on head fins, with red cylinders might be interesting..

[pete]

Yep Hillsy, they are indeed a little secondhand. Unfortunately in my excitement at getting to assemble it I didn't notice until after I'd pressed the bearing on... oh well! I've ordered an M20 x 1.5 die which should clean them up though, the nut isn't as bad a fit as I thought it would be so I'm pretty sure it'll be ok.

Cheers Larry, very true! I do have to keep myself moving past it in the garage when I'm trying to get to work etc. though, I'm finding it a little distracting (in a good way)

The plan for the engine is all black as the later Kat and EFE motors were, and if I can then yes polish the head fins in the same style too.

Like this:

1984_GSX1100SE_p2_450.jpg

Not sure on the red cylinders though, I'll have to mock that up and see... I'd also need to find some high temp paint in a suitable red which I suspect may be the tricky part if I do that.

I got the easy one done last night, countershaft is now ready for second to be pressed on and welded.

Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr

[Fjbj40]

Have a look at Gunkote paint for your engine.

https://www.kgcoatings.com/products/2400-series-gun-kote

[hillsy]

Red cylinders with a red frame would probably be....too red IMHO

As far as paint goes, any of the new breed epoxy stuff in spray cans is really good. I've used the Killrust matt and gloss and they are super durable. Also, Rustoleum make a chassis and rollbar paint in satin which looks very close to the original Suzuki engine black. I used the Rustoleum one on the MC's on an FJ1200 about 2 years ago and spilt a good lot of brake fluid all over them during re-assembly - the paint is still like new.

[pete]

I've already got the paint for the crankcases, going with satin black VHT engine enamel:

https://www.autobarn.com.au/vht-eng-enamel-satin-black-sp139

It's easy to get locally, other guys I know have used it with good success, and doesn't break the bank. I have the primer and clear as well to do my best to make sure it has a good base to stick to and is protected as much as possible from stone chips etc.

As long as my prep work is up to scratch it should be good, which is the focus this week. More sanding last night and got the wire brushes into the awkward spots between the cooling fins and so forth as well. At this point I'm on track to be painting the cases Sunday morning.

I don't have enough paint to do the cylinders or head yet, and I also don't want to degrease and clean them until I'm a bit closer to assembling the head so I can leave the existing oil there to keep the bits preserved.

I started with your suggestion Larry to go red cylinders with the rest black, thought it could be a little over the top and yep, didn't even get a third the way through before realising it would be too much red.

I thought I'd give red fins instead of polished fins a shot instead, but I still think it's a bit too much, and will look a little out of place unless I do the cam end covers as well, which definitely makes it too much.

Maybe not so bad if I black out the end caps and just have the head fins red though.

Leaning towards sticking with just the polished fin edges like stock, just enough to break up the black a bit, although the red fins and blacked out cam end caps is growing on me... it really depends on what sort of red comes out of the paint can though, if it's too orange it's not going to work at all.

Black Motor by starpoint73, on Flickr

Red Fins by starpoint73, on Flickr

Red End Caps Fins by starpoint73, on Flickr

Red Fins Black End Caps by starpoint73, on Flickr

[nvr2old]

Hey, thanks for even considering my suggestion, Pete. It'll look great all black with the edges of the head fins polished like stock as you mentioned. That bike is gonna be a serious head-turner.

[Sam 78 GS750]

Cosign on the polished fins... The red does look good, but it's a bit too much red.

[zuluwiz]

Cheers Pete, Rick from Ohio here. I've been watching this thread for months now and must say I am impressed with the quality of your work. There aint no way I would ever have the patience to do the sort of thing you're in. You are going to have the best looking Suzuki in Australia when youre done. Salute, mate!

[pete]

Cheers Larry and Sam... yep while the red fins were growing on me yesterday, this morning when I look again the stock black and polished fins is definitely the way to go, the red is just not quite right on the motor I think.

Larry, I've gotta give other people's ideas a shot as my creative abilities are a bit limited... if I didn't do that my Kat would be all black instead of black and silver with a red pinstripe too and honestly I would've been disappointed had I have done that. Looks so much better this way

Cheers Rick nice to have you along for the ride! It does take patience to get the results but I can only say it's well worth the time and effort. If I did this more often it wouldn't take so much time as I would know the tips and techniques to get a better result early on, but it's all a learning challenge and the results are well worth it

I got a lot more done than I anticipated yesterday and all the bits to be painted are now prep'd.

All I need to do is give them a final quick once over with a wire brush on Saturday morning, then some brake cleaner and a final pressure wash, then they'll be ready to mask and paint on Sunday.

Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr

Then I possibly got a little ahead of myself, but I was keen to see how the muffler I got will work as I suspected it may be a little big.

I think it'll be ok... I need to notch the mount a bit to clear the pillion peg mount on the subframe and that'll move it about 30mm further back and allow it to line up with stock muffler mount also. I think it just looks so big due to having no motor in the frame.

Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr

Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr

Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr

[Greg B]

I don't know. That muffler IS really big.
Might not be so bad if it was shorter.

[pete]

Yeah it's a chunky one! But as you say, mainly the length is the issue.

I like it because it's aluminium and is 61mm internal diameter all the way through which matches the collector size on the headers I have nicely.

The front is riveted on, so I should be able to shorten it without too much drama.

Once I get the motor in the frame I'll create a replica from cardboard and play around with it.

The last thing I need is to drag the muffler on a right hand bend hitting a bump... that would be a tragedy.

[pete]

I had a little win tonight... but a little win is better than no win!

My M20 x 1.5 die which arrived today and it's cleaned the threads on the drive shaft up pretty well.

I know the castellated nut is wrong but it's all I had to test the threads with... and yes the PO did indeed have that holding the sprocket on...

Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr