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trying to get my 82 650 back on the road
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There isn't one, best bet is Robert Barrs' Cycle O-Rings.com, OEM for every thing every else. Mr Barr is a member on here, and is very helpfulsigpicSome of the totally committed probably should be.
'58 + '63 Vespa 150's' (London, GB/RI, US)
'67 X6 T20 ('67 Long Beach, Ca.- misty-eyed)
'71 Kaw. A1-ugh ('71 SF, CA- worked @ Kaw dlr)
'66 Yam. YL1('72 SF-commuter beater)
'73 Kaw. S2A-2Xugh ('73 SF-still parts slave)
'78 GS 750C ('77 SF-old faithful-killed by son)
'81 KZ 750E ('81 SF-back to Kaw. dlr)
'81 GS 650G ('08 back to NE&ME- (project)
'82 GS '82 (2) GS650GZ, L, Middlebury, G current
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Well guys I ended up moving and have to leave the 650 behind for awhile. However I was recently able to go back and get it and I'm working on it again.
After cleaning the carbs throughly and oiling the choke mechanism I was able to get it running! It's been at least 15 years since it ran last but with a few adjustments to the throttle cable it settled into a nice idle.
At at this point my goal is to get it road worthy and DOT inspection ready. Next issues to deal with are
oil leak : when I was able to get it started oil started leaking right where the clutch actuator arm goes into the clutch cover I believe I need what's called an oil seal
is this easy to replace?
Next is the breaks
the break pads are in good shape (the bike only has 7500 miles on it) but the entire assembly is coated with fork seal oil that's been leaking for who knows how long. Oil and dirt are caked on everything. How should I clean them? Soap and water safe? Or just break cleaner?
Should I flush out all the old break fluid and start over?
Forks
The other issue is wheather I should simply drain the remaining fork oil and replace the seals or go ahead and replace the springs as well. Again the bike has only 7500 miles on it but the springs are probably the originals ( I've read the tutorial to replace the springs and it's much more involved).
Appreciate the imput guys
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Good to hear you have it running.
If the bike has been sitting for 15 years a complete overhaul of the brake system would be a good idea.
You might get lucky and everything will just need disassembling and cleaning without having to replace anything besides the fluid. the pads themselves might be glazed/contaminate with the fork oil but try cleaning them and a light scuff with sand paper.
Brake cleaner will clean off old fork oil but don't do it while on the bike. Could be hard on wheel bearings.2@ \'78 GS1000
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IMG_0322.jpgThe old oil seal has been a pain to get out, its caked on there
Having to pick it out, probably going get the dremmel out after it later so I can put my guinine Suzuki part on
thinking about putting some clear coat on my tank to clean it up a bit and keep it from becoming more damaged
you guys think I could carefully wet sand the edges of the existing clear coat and then spray a few layers of new on top? The paint is still there minus a few scratches and the pin striping being damaged.
http://<a href="http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/Bart_Staton/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0311_zpsycvbfdll.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w401/Bart_Staton/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0311_zpsycvbfdll.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0311_zpsycvbfdll.jpg"/></a>
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Hey guys,
Lately I've been working alot but ive been able to get a few things done.
Clutch cover cleaned and a new gasket. The P.O. used black gasket sealer and just put it on top of the old torn gasket. took awhile to get both surfaces clean but they are now and have a new gasket.
Head gasket and half moon seals replaced. cleaned both surfaces well and it seems i have a good seal.
Bike starts right up now on Choke but i think I will need to ajust the mix screws again.
I moved onto the front forks which were a huge mess and had a few questions
I was able to get the fork oil to drain and ive removed the old rubber seals but i can get the forks to open up. all they will do is spin. I looked at my manual and i have a little different set up than what is shown in their.
IMG_0036.jpg
when I put a socket on the thing it just spins. any ideas?
Also what is the best way to clean out the mufflers/exhaust? Im thinking for sitting so long they probably have quite a bit of dirt setting in them
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Originally posted by orangechicken007 View Postit appears similar, but beneath my air valve there is just a washer, nothing else. and when i turn the air valve it just continues to spin, where would the circlip be?1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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mnferwerda
Yes, press down hard and you will see the clip. You'll need a pick to get it out of the groove in the fork tube. It might be easier to have a friend push down on the cap (since the fork spring is directly below it). At least yours is not rusted. Mine was a mess and had to put a lot of penetrating oil to get it loose.
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Hey guys, thanks for the responses, the forks are all back together and on the bike. now I am cleaning out the Gas tank and working on the brakes.
Im having trouble getting front brake to release. When pump the piston out it looks like it is in great condition, no rust scoring etc. ive also bled the brakes and added new brake fluid.
Should I buy a rebuild kit or a whole new caliper? how much pressure should it take to push the piston back into the caliper? it goes in easily with a C-clamp but I cant push it back in with my hand.
On the back brake I went to bleed all the old fluid and I got one good pump and some old brown fluid out and then nothing. it wont build up any kind of pressure. Im guessing that this means that pump will have to be replaced correct?
Thanks again guys for all your help and insight.
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jeff13m
Rebuild. Even if you buy upgrade caliper, unless its new, I'd change the seals and o-ring at the very least. it's not that hard or time consuming - check you tube or search here for info. Parts should be under a hundred bucks total. Get oem stuff.
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well its been awhile,
quick catch up,
sorted through the brakes, carbs(disassembled, dipped, new rings), replaced intakes, fuses, and lots of other little things. its been inspected and is all legal and I've been able to start riding it around town. been a blaststarts right up, it idles well, right between 1000-1100, all my electrics seem to be working well. no problems at all in town.
However, once I started to feel confident in its reliability I started taking it on longer runs out of town and heres what I noticed.
it accelerates fine, shifts fine, but in 5 around 6500 rpms it levels out. I can lay on it and open it all the way up but it won't get over 7000 rpms, in 4th I managed to get it to 7500 ish but it still is like hitting a wall. when its held all the way open it will lurch, thats the best way I can describe it, like its trying to go faster but Its missing something. speed tops out at about 80, which isn't bad if I was going to be riding it in town, but for highway riding it would be best to have a little more speed to get out of trouble if I need to.
My first thought was fuel starvation.
I recently put a new fuel lines and made sure it wasn't kinked, vacuum hose isn't kinked, petcock is new, tank has been cleaned very recently, I checked the cap and I think its fine, What else should I check? I'm running out of ideas.
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