Suzuki GS1000e/s/gs1100/gsx1100 project...

[John Kat]

Hi Bob, the reason I asked is that the models mentionned on Salty's thread correspond to US model numbers.
Here in France, the Honda models go like PC31 or SC29 and SC 31 like those mentionned here:
Disques de frein flottant Honda CBR 600 1995-1998,CBR 900 RR FIREBLADE 1994-1997 | eBay
The Kawasaki models typically were not sold in France.
The ER6 calipers look OK but who knows?
Like these?
Etriers avant KAWASAKI ER6 N 2006 - 2008 | eBay
OK I found them for a GPX 600 R
Kawasaki GPX600 R ZX600C Étrier de Frein Avant Droite F2/4 - K1 | eBay

[bobtail84]

Hi Bob, the reason I asked is that the models mentionned on Salty's thread correspond to US model numbers.
Here in France, the Honda models go like PC31 or SC29 and SC 31 like those mentionned here:
Disques de frein flottant Honda CBR 600 1995-1998,CBR 900 RR FIREBLADE 1994-1997 | eBay
The Kawasaki models typically were not sold in France.
The ER6 calipers look OK but who knows?
Like these?
Etriers avant KAWASAKI ER6 N 2006 - 2008 | eBay
OK I found them for a GPX 600 R
Kawasaki GPX600 R ZX600C Étrier de Frein Avant Droite F2/4 - K1 | eBay

John, I have copied the below from salty_monks post to give you a few options for parts. I think that some of the bikes listed should be available in France if not look on the UK eBay and most ship to Europe as a general rule.

When fitting make sure to check all clearances carefully & turn the wheel by hand and listen for any scraping, feel for any interference. Be cautious on your first ride. If everything is fine the brakes will be MUCH stronger than you're used to.

Parts-
Brackets
Custom brackets. You will also need 2x 10mm x 40mm bolts, 2x flat washers, 2x lock washers, and 2x 10mm nuts for the bottom hole. Figure another $5 at your hardware store for these, but use at least a grade 8.8 (10.9 or higher preferred).
2 x M10 bolts 40-45mm in length. Stock caliper bolts can be used on caliper locations with blue loctite. These are for the lower bracket to fork leg connection.

Calipers
2 x calipers from various bikes, mainly Kawasaki models-
EX 250 Ninja 1988 to 2007 (single caliper on right side)
EX 500 Ninja 1994 to 2007 (single caliper on right side)
ZL 600 B1 Eliminator 1995 to 1996
ZR 550 B1/B2/B3 Zephyr 1990 1992 1993
ZX 600 C1-C9 Ninja 600 R 1988 to 1996
ZR 750 C1/C2/C3 1991 to 1993
ZX 750 F1/F2/F3/F4 Ninja 1987 to 1990
ZG 1000 A9-A20 Concours 1994 to 2006
ZX 1000 B1/B2/B3 Ninja ZX10 1988 to 1990

Suzuki also used this caliper on the VX800, GS500 and the GSX1100G

If buying Concours calipers, be sure they are the dual-piston ones from 94-06. The earlier 86-93 ones are single-piston and won't fit. Shop around by model on eBay, you'll find the prices vary a lot for the same thing. It's also usually cheaper to find a pair of calipers than buying them one at a time. Be sure you are getting left and right calipers and that each caliper has the bolt for the banjo fitting in it.

Pads
Your choice on these. Expect to spend anywhere from $20~40 per set. The EBC organic pads part number is FA129.

Rotors
2 x rotors, 295mm.
a) Solid GS rotor from a:
GS 550 C/N/EC/EN 77-79
GS 550 LT 80
GS 750 C/N (8 Valve) 78-79
GS 1000 C/N 78-79

b) Vented (one way, the slots will face the "wrong" direction on one side, but this is not known to be an operational problem) GS rotor from a:
GS 550 LX 81
GS 550 LZ 82
GS 550 TX 81
GS 650 GLX/GLZ/GLD 81-83 (NOT the 650G standard)
GS 750 TZ/TD (16 valve) 82-83 (NOT the 750E)

Make sure what you get is the larger (295mm) single rotor from the L/GL/TZ. The standards of this era used the smaller 276mm dual disks. Ask the seller to measure it before you buy- it will save a lot of headache when you get the wrong one.

You can use certain Honda CBR rotors, F3 or F4. On most the rotor should be re-drilled & the caliper spacer acts as the template for this (there are 2 small 6mm holes to line up & then put the 8mm holes straight through (preferably on a pillar drill).

CBR600 Rotors. F3, F4 & F4i. The 296mm dia ones. If you send me any links to ones you are looking to buy or pictures I can quickly tell you if they are the right ones.

-HONDA-CBR600-F4-US-ver-1999-2000-FS-99-00 – 78mm PCD

cbr600-600RR-F3-Front-wheel-rim-Brake-Disc-Caliper-Rotors-95-98-/

95-96-97-98-honda-cbr600-f3-cbr600f3

I know there are 63 pages on Dan's original post but grab your favourite beverage and have a skim as there is a great deal of very useful info in there.

Jeff.

[John Kat]

Thanks Jeff!
I read most of Dan's post as I read somewhere that the SV 650 calipers would fit but apparently not?
On another subject, I'm looking for a throttle slide for a GS 1135 carb.
I had found one on Ebay in the UK but it was in poor condition and returned it.
If you happen to see one please notify me asap.
John

[bobtail84]

Thanks Jeff!
I read most of Dan's post as I read somewhere that the SV 650 calipers would fit but apparently not?
On another subject, I'm looking for a throttle slide for a GS 1135 carb.
I had found one on Ebay in the UK but it was in poor condition and returned it.
If you happen to see one please notify me asap.
John

Send me the details of the carb, make and size then I can see what's about for you.

[John Kat]

Le carbs are here:
Suzuki GSX1150EF 1985 (F) (E06) CARBURETOR - buy original CARBURETOR spares online (cmsnl.com)
Le slide itself is part # 5, PN 13500-00A10.
It looks exactly the same as the one fitted on the GSX 1100 except that it's diameter is 32 mm insteas of 29 mm
The name of the carbs is BS 36 SS.
Quite difficult to find!
The only missing part to finish my bike
IMG_3359 small.jpg

[steve murdoch]

Bike looks great, John.
I don't want to get too sidetracked on Bob's thread but did you any clearance issues with the carbs and the tank?
I have the same setup and had to massage the tank a bit and run a small rubber "guard".

[John Kat]

Yes Steve, the tank sides touch the top of the engine.
I'll open a new thread to show how I solved this issue not only for the 1135 engine but also for the GSXR 1059 in two different ways.

[bobtail84]

So, a little while back I mentioned that I was going to fit a wide band lambda and gauge to the bike which has been done. The reason for this was to set up the 33mm smoothbores and before I get into that this is the location of the sensor.



The 33's came with 140 mains with standard 17.5 pilots and the jet needle set on 5, this is the needle as high as it could be, the seller assured me the set up run perfectly on his bike...
As you can see from the main body of this thread I have a 1085 Wiseco pistons, ported inlet and exhaust, Pop Y cams and a Ti Racefit exhaust and it ran like a pig.

1st thing I did was drop the mains to 137 and drop the jet needle to position 1, it was better but choked up below 4000rpm. It also was very flat until the absolute top of the rev range which is no good.

To cut a very long process into a reasonable time frame, the changing of mains to 135 then 132.5 then finally 128.5 has given me a nice 1/2 to full throttle response and AFR reading.

There are stories that 33's won't idle properly then also transition between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle has a flat spot, well mine idle really nicely and pull from idle right up the range. But, it took time to get them to where I wanted them.

As we all know the 33's idle on the air screws, I set those up using colour tune and checked the AFR reading on the gauge, once this was stable I moved the jet needle up and down trying to get a smooth transition from closed throttle to 1/2 throttle. This area is controlled by the pilot jet and the AFR was leaning off so I changed the jets from 17.5 to 22.5, I was trying to reduce the height of the jet needle so the mid range was not to rich to early during transition between pilot and main. With the bigger pilots the idle to 1/4 throttle was massively improved also with the Jet needle in position 3 the transition between 1/4 to 3/4 and full throttle is also greatly improved. I will drop the jet needle down one more just to see if it's better or worse just to be sure I have tried everything.

Below is a picture of the AFR when the bike idling of the choke but not up to temp, Stoich is 14.7 but with these old bikes 13.8ish is fine for idle. I don't have a picture for obvious reasons but here in the UK they love a 50mph road and when the bike is cruising at 50 the AFR is hovering around 14.7 which is spot on. On WOT the AFR is up to 12.7 so that is also good enough for 45 year old carbs on a 53 year old bike.



Please also bare in mind that if you try what I have done wide band lambdas were developed for fuel injection so when used with carbs the reading will not be stable all the time, I have 4 33mm smoothbores that are older than my children and the readings are there or there about 95% of the time, don't fret if the gauge moves by a couple of points from time to time, compared to fuel injection carbs are basically 4 bucket pouring fuel into an 8 valve dinosaur, but a very nice dinosaur none the less.