1981 Suzuki GS650E Project or Money pit?

[Buffalo Bill]

If $1000.99 is a money pit, maybe you're lucky to have food and shelter.
Can't imagine how to find a running bike for $999.

[850GT_Rider]

If $1000.99 is a money pit, maybe you're lucky to have food and shelter.
Can't imagine how to find a running bike for $999.

True and so I'll edit my response.

By his own admission, the OP is already into it for $705 ($475+$230). An additional $1000 to $1500 would not be a surprise.

[SuzukiNoob88]

If $1000.99 is a money pit, maybe you're lucky to have food and shelter.
Can't imagine how to find a running bike for $999.

I'd make it a project. Who buys motorcycles as an investment? I don't regret a dollar I have spent on any of my numerous bikes.

Sorry folks, I guess I am bad at communicating. I definitely didn't buy this to "flip" for a profit after a quick oil change. What i mean when I say "money pit" is the same thing folks mean when they buy a $200 car to commute that wont pass inspection (which this bike doesn't).

Btw, thanks to all of your honest opinions on the matter, because I was afraid to hear some of it, but glad to get straight up answers.

No original plan, because I know that it's rare to find a bike this old (or any bike for that matter) under $1000 ready to ride, was to get it SAFE and Inspected, and then worry about thoroughly running through the mechanical when the fall and winter hits.

I had an 82 Honda CB650 (paid $1300 but was in very good shape, almost no rust) when I got my License 8 years ago, and loved the style of these older Japanese bikes. I really can't see myself riding a crotch rocket, or a laid back cruiser.

I'm definitely not worried about riding more than 50 miles at a time, and maybe an occasional commute if I can get it SAFE and road-worthy.

UPDATE: I have currently torn into the calipers and don't need pistons, just seal kits for all 3 at the most, and pads in front look almost new.
Both master cylinder kits on the way and also have swing arm bearings coming.

[SuzukiNoob88]

Found that front calipers, after opening them up, have almost perfect pistons, seals seem spongy, they weren't leaking originally, and all slide boots and dust seals are in good shape. Would anyone recommend putting the originals back in, or is that a taboo thing? It's 50 bucks i would save, but I bought them with my safety in mind.

Also, found one of my swing arm needle bearings was completely shot, so i decided to remove both of them and throw in a grease fitting near top weld to pivot for future greasing.

Tomorrow I plan on rebuilding both MC's, putting in OEM fuse box from a gs450, replacing positive terminal lead with proper crimp fitting (currently has oversized terminal connector).

Anyone with a good source for hardware other than EBAY or McMaster-Carr let me know, need to replace some frame mount bolts, exhaust bolts, and small JIS screws.

[jdvorchak]

I use Ace Hardware for Metric fasteners. Occasionally I'll check the local Suzuki dealer for parts I can't source otherwise. More than that I use eBay and look for free shipping and a "power seller" status. I get my metric tools at Harbor Freight and any specialty tools on eBay and look for Motion Pro brand.

PB Blaster is the best penetrating oil I've found for rusty fasteners. I clean chrome with plain white vinegar and crumpled up aluminum foil. Cheap window cleaner is what I use to clean all of those surfaces under the tank and side covers etc. The local O'Reilly auto parts store sells me their house brand brake cleaner in case lots (12 cans)for less than $2 per can. I also search google for carb dip and then get a local store to price match. All of the auto parts chain stores price match.

Get a small container and fill it with vinegar and let all electrical connectors soak for 15 to 30 minutes. They come out looking new and the wires are clean and shiny and you can actually see the color and stripes. Get a plastic cup filled with tap water and swish them around for a few seconds and blow them dry. Vinegar won't hurt a single surface on a motorcycle but will clean everything.

[jdvorchak]

I have made battery terminals out of copper water pipes. Cut off a 1 or 2 inch piece of small tubing and flatten 1/2 with a hammer or vise. Drill a hole in the flattened part. Using solder paste or small wire brush make inside and outside surfaces clean and bright. Then with a propane torch solder the old battery cable onto the end. You can make any size terminal you want.

[wyly]

Found that front calipers, after opening them up, have almost perfect pistons, seals seem spongy, they weren't leaking originally, and all slide boots and dust seals are in good shape. Would anyone recommend putting the originals back in, or is that a taboo thing? It's 50 bucks i would save, but I bought them with my safety in mind.

if you already have the brakes apart rebuild them you're just going to do it sooner or later anyways. And your life is worth more than $50.

[SuzukiNoob88]

Thanks for the tips wyly and jdvorchak, i have heard of tinfoil and water, but never thought to use vinegar, and all I use for rust and part removal is PB blaster and Marvel Mystery oil.

Unfortunately am waiting for an 8mm Irwin bolt-grip socket to remove ONE of my exhaust bolts that broke off about half an inch from head.

Also, can't seem to find the proper O-ring for oil pan oil passage, which didn't come with OEM gasket. I used a measure to determine a 3mm thick 20mm OD ring.

I installed a 45 degree fitting on swing arm pivot to aid in future lubing.

Tasks until ride-able and inspect-able:
- oil pan install.
- oil flush and filter change, will add seafoam and then possibly do another oil change in near future
- headlight (sealed beam or conversion to halogen bulb) and install replacement housing
- find exhaust, either stock or new to replace detached muffler on left side and pin hole starting on right side in same area.
- Fix horn circuit, switch seems to work when I check voltage at horn, and horn works when isolated from bike
- mirrors
- ***Rebuild all brakes except front MC to be replaced with new MC and reservoir(disassembled and partially cleaned up to naked aluminum, unintentionally, will be polishing them a little, got sidetracked from original purpose on this one)
- Replace battery with proper sized one exceeding oem (previous owner had undersized battery)
- check throttle, and choke and clutch adjustments.
20160801_235333.jpg

[jdvorchak]

I've had really good luck with Harbor Freight Left hand drill bits and their easy outs. Lots of PB and heat it to dull red prior to extraction.

[jdvorchak]

I always say a 15 minute job is only one broken bolt away from a weekend long ordeal.

[hillsy]

I'd re-use the caliper seals - they are either going to leak or not leak. They wont suddenly "disappear" and leave you with the lever back at the bars.

[jdvorchak]

Actually if the seals are flexible and spongy but fit tight in the groove and the piston is not seriously pitted I've re-used them. If they are going to leak you'll know about it before you ever ride it. Just keep an eye on the brake pad next to the piston and make sure it's dry. Also if it leaks the lever/pedal will slowly go down as you hold high pressure on it for a few seconds.

That being said. since you already have it apart, the prudent thing to do would be to replace the seals

[JJ]

When I rebuild a caliper or master cylinder on any vehicle, all of the rubber parts get replaced. Stopping is important!

[Deuce]

Sorry folks, I guess I am bad at communicating. I definitely didn't buy this to "flip" for a profit after a quick oil change. What i mean when I say "money pit" is the same thing folks mean when they buy a $200 car to commute that wont pass inspection (which this bike doesn't).

Btw, thanks to all of your honest opinions on the matter, because I was afraid to hear some of it, but glad to get straight up answers.

No original plan, because I know that it's rare to find a bike this old (or any bike for that matter) under $1000 ready to ride, was to get it SAFE and Inspected, and then worry about thoroughly running through the mechanical when the fall and winter hits.

I had an 82 Honda CB650 (paid $1300 but was in very good shape, almost no rust) when I got my License 8 years ago, and loved the style of these older Japanese bikes. I really can't see myself riding a crotch rocket, or a laid back cruiser.

I'm definitely not worried about riding more than 50 miles at a time, and maybe an occasional commute if I can get it SAFE and road-worthy.

Wow! You sound like me.

[jeffgs]

Look, I was in the same position. I had to get over what the bike was worth to others and focus on what it was worth to me.

Total cash flow I am sure I could have purchased a new bike. New bikes do not have personality. I would ride mine anywhere with the confidence of a new bike, it just has quirks and it's own personality.

That is how it boiled down for me. I may have to sell it now because I had a huge Motocross wreck and I cannot bend my knee, so I have been looking at newer machines with forward controls. I cannot make up my mind because I lose interest in them.