My GS650G build

[Guest]

Here's my start of my build, 1982 GS650G that I saved from the metal salvage yard that a friend works at called me and I bought for just a few dollars , so far I have cleaned and rebuilt carbs, cut and re welded the rear fender area , installed new shorter rear shocks, will be rebuilding the rear drive unit, front forks, front and rear bearings in wheels, etc.

[Steve]

Nice rescue.

Are you SURE it's a "G"? The tank looks more like an "L", as does the rear fender, but you say you have already changed that. If the front axle is ahead of the fork tubes instead of directly under them, it's likely an "L". Won't make much difference in the long run, but it might when you go looking for parts.

A couple of things to be aware of:
1. The '82 shafties had problems with the driven splines in the rear wheel hub. They had a softer metal that wore out relatively quickly. Easily replaced, but not much fun if it happens out on the road. Check your splines, lube them with Honda Moly60 paste or something similar.
2. The u-joint in the driveline is meant to run in a particular range of angles. Installing shorter shocks will change that angle. Some change is tolerated rather well, but shocks greatly shorter than stock may accelerate wear in the driveline parts. How much shorter did you go?

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[JonnyC]

Welcome to the club! Will be watching this one.

[Beeone]

Well Steve , I'm not very familiar with these Suzuki GS motorcycles, that would the call like someone like you that are better acquainted, I saved this bike from being cut up at a metal recycle yard that a friend of mine works at and he knew I was into buying cheap motorcycles and rebuilding them, so I'm not even sure if that tank belongs on that frame, so all I have done is looked at the sticker on the neck of the bike and went with it, so any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated (?) As far as the shocks I'm installing new shocks that are for a Honda Rebel 450, which measure from loop to loop 290 mm , where's as the stock shocks just a tad bit longer , so I think at the most would be less or close to 2 inches, which shouldn't be much difference if I had a passenger on the stock shocks, but I could be wrong but any input would be helpful. I just always wanted to take one of the bikes I have worked on in the past into a bobber , but they where in too good of shape to do one. This bike needs slot of TLC, so I thought it is the perfect candidate to build one, so far , I have completely redone the carbs 100% and was able to hear it fire up. I still have to install new bearings in the front and rear hubs as I have always done, when you only have 2 wheels on the road , I don't trust old or bearings that have set around. I still need a fuel petcock, hoses and checking valve clearances, etc. this bike by any means is road worthy. The seat that was on it ( which appears to be stock is no means of using ) so, I ordered a bobber style seat off eBay. It also needs tires, and some wiring fix. I definitely will making sure that I have the correct angle on the rear drive unit. Now you said theirs a fix to the rear driveshaft, what do I need to fix the soft shaft ? Thank you in advance

[Steve]

It's not the shaft that is soft, it's the splines in the hub of the rear wheel. The only way to inspect them is to remove the rear wheel and look.

You will likely have to remove the wheel anyway. How old is the rear tire? You need to remove the wheel to change the tire, perfect time to inspect the splines.

Take a look at this thread, the good pictures start in post #31.

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[Beeone]

Oh ok Steve, I'm following you now. Yeah, I had the rear drive assembly off already, the tire that's on the rear wheel is dated 4/06, so not that old but old enough on to trust. I'll have to check those spines out before my project is finished. I appreciate the heads up on that, I have owned shaft driven bikes before and I like to ride to work on the bikes I work on before I sell them so I know their safe.

[Beeone]

Well Steve , I believe this bike is indeed a "L" as long as no one has ever changed the front forks as your description on the placement of the front axle. This has the front axle bolt directly under, thank you for that info, as far as tank, I have no way of knowing if it's the stock tank. And, I might have to think of how to lower the rear without changing the swing arm angle, the shocks I have chosen may be a tad too short for what I'm trying to achieve . I may have to cut and relocate the upper shock stud mount to keep the stock angle.

[Steve]

Anything you do to shorten the rear suspension is going to change the driveline angle. It does not matter if you simply use shorter shocks or use stock shocks on re-located mounts, the swingarm will be at a different angle.

About an inch of lowering will be tolerated quite well, much more than that will eventually lead to problems.

There are other clues to whether your bike is an "L" or not. If your axle is directly under the forks, it is not an L fork. A smaller tank might have been installed at some time, which is all we can see in that one picture. Do you have any other pictures? One showing the entire bike from the side would be good for a start. One of the frame between the gas tank and the steering neck would be good, too. Even the gauges might give a clue, but the ultimate would be sharing the VIN from the plate. The G and L frames had different numbers.

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[Beeone]

Ok thank you, the stamp on right clutch cover say: GS650G- 133??? And I do understand that I will be changing the angles a bit. I'm not going like some of the I have seen were they have made their own solid bars where the shocks are suppose to be, just building a fun little toy. I have attached a picture as the bike was when I picked it up from the salvage yard, I just picked up stock exhaust from a guy here in Michigan , the exhaust has less than 500 miles, the guy took them off just after he bought his bike new in 1982 , I paid $100, I guess if it doesn't work out I'll just part the bike out, I have seen carbs on eBay selling for $100 + , exhaust $100+ , so I'm not out much at this point,

[Steve]

OK, thanks for the picture.


In that picture, it's much easier to see what you have.

Yes, it has G forks, but everything else screams "L":
Chrome fenders
Peanut tank
Stepped seat
Shorter, flat-ended mufflers
Can't tell about the headlight, it might have been upgraded with the forks.

I just took another look at the picture and found something else worth noting.
Those might NOT be "G" forks. The wheel is a Kawasaki item, so those might actually be Kawasaki forks, too.

The engines don't care what frame they were installed in, there was no rhyme or reason to their numbers. What would matter is the FRAME number, which would be on the steering neck. It is embossed on the right side of the neck, and is also printed on the VIN tag, which should be on the left side of the neck. If the VIN tag is still visible, you should also see the official model designation and whether it would have an L or not.

Here is some information from THIS PAGE at Z1 Enterprises:
GS650GZ 1982 »

Frame:JS1GP71G_C_100001 ~
Engine prefix: GS650G


GS650GLZ 1982 »

Frame:JS1GP71L_C_100001 ~
Engine prefix: GS650G


Note the "G" and the "L" in the frame numbers.

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[Beeone]

Yeah I have noticed that the front wheel doesn't match the rear, and I also noticed a while back that thier is only one brake caliper/ rotor on the front and it should have two if I correct (?)or maybe that's another indication between a "G" and a "L" (?) , I haven't looked to see if it's stamped Suzuki or Kawasaki , I'll check tomorrow. I'll look at the frame and run the vin a see what it comes up. I have lots of parts that I have collected over the years, but this is the first Suzuki I have owned and I wouldn't even have this one if it wasn't for my friend calling me about it, lol. I have always owned Yamaha or Honda, not saying I have anything against Suzuki. I'm on the local Sheriffs Department and i did run the VIN on the National Crime base to see if it was stolen and it didn't come up, so that was a good thing. I appreciate all your info. I'll do some more searching on this bike, like I mentioned the motor is stamped GS650G-133574 so it's definitely a "G" motor as far as that goes. And it does start up and runs and sounds good so I could always sell the motor as well.

[Beeone]

I read all that info your talking about, I'll do some checking on this rear shock height and see if I can find a shock that will keep that stock ride , maybe I'll fabricate up a new rear old school chopper looking fender or something , I just want to build something different looking motorcycle out of it, or maybe I'll just find some stock parts that are in real good shape and just restore it back to original form. I know a lot of bike builders and I'll check with them and see what they can tell me, I just wish this was a chain or belt driven bike then it would be a lot easier to do what I have in mind.

[Steve]

..., like I mentioned the motor is stamped GS650G-133574 so it's definitely a "G" motor as far as that goes.

As I mentioned in post #10, the engines were not unique to the two models. Consecutively-numbered engines could have alternated between G and L models as they came off the line. Only the FRAME number will tell you.

The "G" engines were shaft-drive models (both G and L), the engines in the chain-drive models only had the "GS650", with no extra letter.

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[Beeone]

Well it looks as if this bike is a "L" as Steve defiantly pointed out for me, you know these bikes well, Thank you. Looks as if I have what I call a Frankenstein bike. Front wheel is a Kawasaki, forks I'm going to guess are Kawasaki, tank not sure, seat is junk so that I'm not even concerned about. I'm not putting a front fender on, the rear I have already done some changes. I should just restore this bike back to its original state as it was the day it was assembled. I have owned / rebuilt 13 bikes in the past 6 years, this being the first Suzuki, the others have been honda and Yamaha with one being a Kawasaki LTD 454 belt drive, that I totally restored and painted and was a really fun bike, I miss that one the most, it got a lot of attention.

[Beeone]

I just finished up tuning the carbs, I re jetted them and fired up this 650 motor the real first time and got to actually hear if their was any internal noise and this motor sounds really good, no knocks, nothing. Now it's time to disassemble it and take the motor out and clean it up and replace some of the rusted bolts and what chrome nuts and washers, and wet sand and buff the aluminum covers,etc. I still have a lot more to finish up, but, I'm making good progress and hopefully it will be ready for next season. I'll post more pics as I finish frame, seat, tank as it comes together.