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1980 GS1000G project
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Xfarmer
Originally posted by thebrandonbeezy View PostThat looks realy good man but the bars are mounted in the wrong angle. Man you are gonna make me step my game up with the seat smh haha. Anyways with bars that low you'll need to fit some rearsets and probably gonna have to be pretty aggressive ones too..
... a work in progress
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Xfarmer
Originally posted by Xfarmer View PostYeah... I'm pretty tall with gorilla arms, but it's a stretch. May change to a drag bar. I chose this angle to keep from smashing my fingers into the tank at full crank. They're about an inch away when I hit the stops. Once I lower the padding in the seat it will help though.
... a work in progress
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Xfarmer
Originally posted by thebrandonbeezy View PostDang it man haha IT LOOKS SO GOOD UHHGGG
... had to buy it.Last edited by Guest; 04-15-2017, 09:59 PM.
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Xfarmer
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I have the 13.5 on mine. They measure 13.5 adjusted all the way short haha. Theres a tab on the frame that keeps you from lifting the back all the way and youll need to remove it for that shock so you can get proper length. I lifted mine in the rear about 3/4 inch to adjust tge rake and trail. Came out nicely. I like the rfy shocks. Youll need to set the nitrogen psi to 70. They ride fine and you can rebuild them to actually perform pretty good. Ill pm you pics of my set up later
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Xfarmer
Originally posted by thebrandonbeezy View PostI have the 13.5 on mine. They measure 13.5 adjusted all the way short haha. Theres a tab on the frame that keeps you from lifting the back all the way and youll need to remove it for that shock so you can get proper length. I lifted mine in the rear about 3/4 inch to adjust tge rake and trail. Came out nicely. I like the rfy shocks. Youll need to set the nitrogen psi to 70. They ride fine and you can rebuild them to actually perform pretty good. Ill pm you pics of my set up laterLast edited by Guest; 04-16-2017, 12:03 AM.
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Xfarmer
Thought it was time to update my project: I rebuilt the seatpan by welding a plate on the back with a 3/4" lip around the edge. It's heading to the upholsterer on Monday.Attached Files
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Xfarmer
I'm definitely gonna need some rear sets, but I'm going to wait until I install a 4 into 1 pipe so I can be sure of the mounting location.
Question, (and don't hate me for this): I'm old enough to know how 'slash cut pipes' got their name, anybody cut their stock pipes down so they're right in front of the rear axle, eliminating at least one of the baffles? Was it worth the effort? Or, is someone interested in buying these stock pipes from me before I butcher them? Hehehe.Last edited by Guest; 04-28-2017, 11:24 PM.
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Vintagemcycleguy
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If you look in the end of your pipes youll notice a baffle welded in, use a hole saw to cut around the weld and use pliers to wiggle it out. Notice a nice deeper tone, but not much more power to be had
https://youtu.be/tdPwXGbUmGI heres mine, and truth be told this is how i would have kept it if the primarys wernt rusted to crap
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Originally posted by Xfarmer View PostQuestion, (and don't hate me for this): I'm old enough to know how 'slash cut pipes' got their name, anybody cut their stock pipes down so they're right in front of the rear axle, eliminating at least one of the baffles? Was it worth the effort? Or, is someone interested in buying these stock pipes from me before I butcher them? Hehehe.
Lot of work, no power gain, welds are hard to get very nice.
The original pipes are a very sought after item, if they are any good
they'll bring enough money to buy a brand new 4-in-1 SS set ...
If they are very nice you'll even attract overseas buyers, people
pay top dollar for a good set.
I paid 700 euros for a very nice set for my GS1000.Last edited by Rijko; 05-04-2017, 04:57 AM.Rijk
Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread
CV Carb rebuild tutorial
VM Carb rebuild tutorial
Bikecliff's website
The Stator Papers
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