1980/81 GS1000G US Spec UK import

[eddypeck]

Success! was out in the garage till 2am but I now have fully working electrics.



I can confirm the first replacement switch had a faulty main beam rocker switch. The new switch, which happens to be from a Yamaha XMax is now all wired in. The wires on it were too short so had to build a little extension loom which was a bit annoying but no big deal really.

And I'm happy to report the switch gear has a really nice feel to it, The switches feel smooth with solid concise actions. Compared to the original 40 year old item which was quite and clunky and not very positive but also much better quality that the first one I had too. So I'm thinking that might had been generic universal thing rather than a proper Japanese manufacturer part.

Yes it's not original, it's not even Suzuki but I intend my bike to be used regular as a mode of transport it's not a museum piece or a delicate decoration, so I'm more than happy with this upgrade.

Here's a little before and after:

[LarsKroghStea]

Really like this thread! It's nice to see somenone who's not a professional tackle all the maintenace tasks himself Keep up the good work

[eddypeck]

Really like this thread! It's nice to see somenone who's not a professional tackle all the maintenace tasks himself Keep up the good work

Thanks, just trying to do the best I can to give myself some cheap dependable transport - with classic cool factor. Although I have to admit I have been tempted by all the 0% finance deals the main manufactures are offering in the dealerships right now to make room for the 2019 stock.

I could PX the old girl and pay £150 a month for the next few years for a brand new bike.... tempting, but no. Not this year anyway.





So a year of ownership now! and just got it through it's first MOT of my ownership, as the place I bought it from put a new MOT on it before I bought it.


As you know I've done a fair bit of work on it over recent months, after the top end rebuild I've then done the fork rebuild and now loads of rewiring.



And it would have been a clean pass although the fuse blew when the tester tried the horn. Knocking out indicators, horn and brake lights. Replace the fuse there and then and it went again.


So had to take the bike away with an DANGEROUS: FIX NOW note attached to it. Got it home fixed the problem and took it back for a same day retest. But an annoying blemish on the MOT history which is public for any future owner to see.





The issue, from when it had the fairing on the PO had extended the horn wires to re-position the horn I guess to allow the fairing bracket to fit, this extension was fitting badly ... so I unwound the cloth tape removed the crappy extension put the horn back in it's original position and connected up original spade terminals onto the horn.


Pleased to say the failure was not related to any of the work I had done, this was an area I had left untouched. I tested the horn and all the lights before I set off for the MOT station, just my luck that it must have dislodged on the 'long way round' ride I took to get to the test.






The fork seal that I'm not 100% about was a pass, but told to keep an eye on it as there is a little bit of oil mist on the stanction. Also got warned about the tyres, plenty of tread but they are getting old and brittle. I'll probably fit some new ones next spring.

[Charlie G]

Very good Eddypeck!

[eddypeck]

So last night I killed the GS1000G and had to wait for a relay truck to get me home.

I was doing 80 down the motorway just about to overtake a caravan and then a big backfire lost all power, so moved over to the hard shoulder. Still rolling under my own momentum pulled in the clutch, turned off the ignition and turned it back on. Let out the clutch and was bale to bump start the bike again.

However right down on power, I was able to nurse it along the breakdown lane. It wouldn't do more than 40mph and if I tried to give it any more gas it would just backfire and lose whatever momentum I had. I eased it along for about 6 miles till I got to the services (rest stop).
I pulled into the car park with is still running and got off. I checked over the bike, made sure I had lights, brake lights, flashers, horn so that I was safe as I was considering continuing my journey tentatively as I was only about 8 miles from home.



However I'm not sure what happened next, I may have knocked the kill switch when I checked the headlight and the bike died. At that point it was totally dead, no ignition light, no anything.

I called for breakdown recovery, but had a couple hours to kill till they arrived. I took off the side panels, checked the fuses and looked all around for any obvious problems, loose wire or any signs/smell of burning etc. I had basic tools in the rear storage so was able to lift the tank out the away and check the wires there and the coils, not that I really knew what I was checking for, but I guess if I'd seen a break in a wire at least I'd know.

But nothing obvious. I got trailered home and shoved the bike away in the garage for further investigation. It was last by then, and I've had to take the car to work today so haven't had chance to diagnose anything further.

I'm wondering if I've totally killed the battery, it seems strong enough but I don't know the history of it. So I'll hook up another battery and see but I would expect some life not complete shut down.

I also guess I could have killed a coil, or both but again I don't see how that would knock out the ignition light. Again any fault in the start button or kill switch I assume would prevent it from starting but I'd still have the ignition light on.

[eddypeck]

That said, before I set off on my fated journey, I left work late and the area was quiet and I thought the bike was looking great. I was feeling smug so thought I'd take a couple of pics.

[eddypeck]

Turned out to be a broken fuse, but not a blown fuse. The actual thing had fallen apart.











It was the 15 amp main fuse. With this replaced I have power, checked sparks at all 4 plugs and all seem fine. Started bike and seemed ok. Went for a short ride - not too far, didn’t want to get stuck far from home. Bike seemed to be all ok, had power as normal.



So with this fixed used the bike to pop round and see my Dad, less than a mile away and would you believe it picked up a puncture!



so I ask myself, when am I going to catch a break, bike is now in this condition as I've had to leave the wheels with the tyre fitter while they wait for stock.



Also decided while I was at it, I'd take another go at the fork seal but I'm struggling.

[eddypeck]

So I should probably update this as it's been a little while...

I bought a proper fork seal tool.



It's the right size for the seal and it weighs a fair bit so with one whack the seal was neatly fitted.

With it all back together unfortunately it still seems to weep a tiny little bit, so as the chrome on the fork stanchion seems to be OK I can only assume it's either poor quality seals, they were non-gen (But the left hand side has been no trouble) or maybe the fork leg is slightly distorted? One to keep an eye on for now, I'm in no rush to take it apart again.

And when I dropped the wheels off for new tyres and the guy noticed the little washer things were worn on the cush drive. Managed to get some new ones off the shelf at my local Suzuki dealer for £3 each. Fitted and all back together with new Avon tyres fitted.








The new parts are a little different to the old ones as there's no lock tab, but overall they are bigger and I used a bit of thread lock.

I've been using the bike at least one day a week for my 60 mile round trip to work and back as we've now sold our 2nd car and my wife goes to college one day a week.
So far it's been a fairly mild winter although I notice the cold on my hands a lot more than when I used to have faired bikes. Plus I don't think my gloves are much good, they were only cheap.

But typical winter roads doesn't do the chrome much good.



But no big deal, all looking good again after a quick wash

[eddypeck]

Well there we have it, sorry guys but this is the end of this chapter. The GS has been sold on.

I was in two minds but put a tentative advert out asking for an amount of money that whilst not over the top was a premium rate for the bike and I assumed enough to put most people off - but low and behold a local guy got in touch and was willing to pay not the asking price but enough to convince me to hand over the keys.

He had one when he was younger and was after another, he's restored numerous classic cars and bikes and is planning to do a full strip down and restoration of her back to original factory spec with original paint scheme and the like. He was happy all the original parts were present, even the bits I'd changed I still had the parts I took off and they were supplied.

He'll be sinking more money into the bike than it'll be worth - at least in the near future - but I guess we've all been there for the ones we cherish. It's time and money I know the bike could do with but I just wasn't able to give over to it.

Meanwhile I've been on the look out for something a bit more modern but still classic looks, and have made an offer on a Kawaskai ZRX1200 which I'm hoping to go look at on the weekend.

[Charlie G]

Take care eddypeck

[Grimly]

Looking at the condition of the front fender (or mudguard as we call them over hear) it looks new and possibly an aftermarket pattern part. So it may well have had a painted one originally. I've been looking at replacements as I think I'd prefer it painted rather than chrome, but there's no rush to change it. What's there looks the part even if it's not correct.

My 850s both had chrome mudguards from the factory. They don't now, of course.

[Grimly]

So the weekend brought me a puzzling situation.

With my newly acquired valve spring compressor I preceded to remove the valves. I might add, although a little daunting as I've never got this involved in a mechanical build before, the process was fairly straightforward. One thing I have learnt over the years is how much simpler a task is with the right tools.

Anyway I followed the Clymer manual, compressed the springs popped out the split keeper, released the tool and removed the top hat and springs, and dropped the valve out the bottom.

Then when it came to the bit about using needle nose pliers to remove the oil seals nothing seemed to move and things didn't look right. I tried to get some photos or videos to see if I could compare what I was looking at and found a YouTube video that suggested heat - I didn't go this far.

But I was beginning to suspect the valve seals weren't actually there. At first I thought maybe the rubber parts had gone and I was looking at the shell, then I tried a new seal and saw it fitted over the top. I eventually worked out, with confirmation from a few pics posted on Facebook, that the head had actually been rebuilt without valve guide oil seals fitted.... (or was it?)



That was what I was looking at, just the naked top of the valve guide.

However 2 of the valves came out with the remains of the seal...



Which was puzzling, how had this got onto the valve stem? Then I pulled a third that had the full oil seal still in situ and it dawned on me, they'd been fitted to the underside of the head on the hot side.

So the exhaust side ones were all gone, burnt up and blown out the exhaust no doubt. And of the inlet side, various bits remained, assuming the rest must had made it into the chamber - although no damage to pistons, valves or head luckily.

That mystery solved, I cleaned up the valves and head best I could. Lapped in the valves, another first for me and started to put it back together. So far only 2 inlet valves back in before I ran out of time. Those split keepers are fiddly. But I'm sure by the time I've done the other six I'll have got the knack of it. We're currently entering a cold spell again (not that it had really warmed up) apparently the next week is about to be the coldest week in the past five years - so still, no rush to get it back together but I am really looking forward to getting it done, especially now knowing things are getting done properly.

But I will be checking the whole bike over because I've no idea what other 'maintenance' the previous owners may have done and from what I've seen so far I've not been filled with confidence.

Normally, I never quote an entire post with pictures just to add a single line.
But this - this merits repeating.
Holy Crap! No matter what stupidity you ever find or see on some engines, somebody always went one better.

[eddypeck]

Well this kind of thing doesn't happen everyday, but the guy that bought this off me has just been in touch and sent me this pic... fresh paint, factory decals the correct year (earlier) indicators and lots of polishing!