1980 GS1100LT Cleanup

[LOTO]

Calipers and master cylinders are rebuilt and started to put parts back on. I have been cleaning, painting, or polishing almost every nut or bolt as I reassemble and decided to quit painting and just order new...I'll still use the banjo bolts, hidden bolts, and some other chrome stuff but placed another order to Parts Outlaw for right about 100 bucks worth of OEM nuts, bolts, washers and that ought to get me started.


New foam for my grips and replaced the brake/clutch contacts and picked up a spare for just in case....the new contacts are made so that the copper u shaped contact is connected to the plastic housing and the spring and contact doesn't go flying when trying to install.




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[LOTO]

Parts Outlaw order was received today and I'll start putting things back together again. Parts Outlaw is not the fastest vendor out there but they are the least expensive supplier of OEM equipment I have found.


Getting ready to bolt my calipers back on and that reminded me of the problem I had with the piston seals...it is hard to believe that soaking in Marvels Mystery Oil for a couple of days would make the seals expand so much but these are the exact OEM parts number parts for the front piston seals.


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[laxcdn]

Parts Outlaw order was received today and I'll start putting things back together again. Parts Outlaw is not the fastest vendor out there but they are the least expensive supplier of OEM equipment I have found.


Getting ready to bolt my calipers back on and that reminded me of the problem I had with the piston seals...it is hard to believe that soaking in Marvels Mystery Oil for a couple of days would make the seals expand so much but these are the exact OEM parts number parts for the front piston seals.


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Good to know as I took apart my calipers and am going to clean the seals and put them back in, but won't soak them just clean now. If they leak then I will get some new ones and will check out Parts Outlaw

[LOTO]

For some reason my brain did not equate that no petroleum products on brake parts meant seals also.

[LOTO]

The Rustoleum cans did make some nice booms in the burn barrel though.



Went with SEM self etching primer first on tank then SEM automotive basecoat for my color...the two tone on tank and side covers is SEM polished gray metallic base coat. I picked up two more side covers so I have an extra if one gets blown off or damaged.


This was my first try at pin striping and still debating on whether to pinstripe before clearcoat or clearcoat then pinstripe..thinking about putting the pin stripes on all 4 side covers and tank then spraying the SprayMax on one side cover only to see how it goes.


I got all the paint, primer, SprayMax at R&C Paint Supply and their prices seemed very good. SprayMax 2k was $15.66 a can.


I realize that many people have used Rustoleum and it has worked well for them but not at all for me. So far with the SEM paint I have had zero runs, zero spider web cracks, and the SEM just goes on so much easier.....if this is my last post then that means when I applied the SprayMax the entire paint job dissolved into a murky mess.








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[LOTO]

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[LOTO]

The sidecovers have been wetsanded with 1500 grit to knock the paint line down and get ready for 2K clear.

[alke46]

I would say you are making it look very nice. How long will you have to wait before spraying the clear?

[LOTO]

I would say you are making it look very nice. How long will you have to wait before spraying the clear?

SEM basecoat instructions say 10 minutes dry time before clear and SprayMax instructions say 30 minutes dry time prior to clear. That is the beauty of the SEM urethane paint...when I had sags or the dreaded spider webs when I was using Rustoleum I had to wait 72 hours before attempting repairs.

https://repaintsupply.com/sem-19423-gm-wa8555-black-p1282.html

https://repaintsupply.com/spraymax-3680061-2k-urethane-clear-coat-aerosol-p3685.html

[LOTO]

Finished up the paint on spare side covers today and pin striped the tank..looks like I have enough tape to stripe my spare side covers and will do that tomorrow.
I wet sand the panels and tank with 1500 grit VERY lightly before applying the pin stripe and then might do it again prior to SprayMax clear coat. The SEM urethane paint really goes on great but is easy to burn through if not careful.


I might wait till next week to clearcoat since it probably is going to take more than one can of SprayMax but less than two to do the job...clearcoat will only last 24-48 hours after activating so I'm going to try and get a few other small items ready to clear...might finish buffing engine cases/covers and get a few of those ready if there is any extra clear.


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[nvr2old]

Your parts look nice. I fear that if you wait till next week to clear, that it will be too late w/o sanding the base coats. It won't stick otherwise. Sanding the grey color will disrupt the metallic. May I suggest spraying one of the 2 cans of clear that you have asap, and then waiting a week if you'd like. You can then sand the clear with some 800 and spray the second can.

[LOTO]

Your parts look nice. I fear that if you wait till next week to clear, that it will be too late w/o sanding the base coats. It won't stick otherwise. Sanding the grey color will disrupt the metallic. May I suggest spraying one of the 2 cans of clear that you have asap, and then waiting a week if you'd like. You can then sand the clear with some 800 and spray the second can.

I took your advice and got up at 4:00 this morning and finished pin stripes and prepped all parts for SprayMax...so far so good. The parts are still wet when I took the photos


I went ahead and VERY lightly wet sanded with 1000 grit, cleaned, then new tack cloth wipe and applied the SprayMax. I was able to get 3 coats on all 4 side covers, tank, and emblems out of one can. The first coat was light, second coat a little heavier and 3rd coat was fairly heavy. The temp outside this morning was around 70 with low humidity and no wind (or bugs) and it was almost a perfect time to spray outside.




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[nvr2old]

Way to go!..You'll be happy you did that.

[LOTO]

Way to go!..You'll be happy you did that.

I know that a lot of the problems I had with Rustoleum was because of my own stupidity but the urethane paint from SEM goes on soooooo much better and was well worth the money...the whole primer/color/clear package I got from R&E Paint was almost foolproof.

[posplayr]

Looks good.