1980 GS1100LT Cleanup

[LOTO]

Here is a pic of what the clearcoat did...never had any problems like this with the base coat and spraying in the same area and using same cleaning prior to paint/clear technique.

best

[nvr2old]

So much depends on the cleanliness of where you are painting. Even in a pro booth, you're going to get a little dirt in it. If you're painting in a garage, the chances of getting stuff in the paint quadruples. Did you use a tack rag before spraying? Your job has been made more difficult, if for no other reason, because of it being spray cans. It's harder to do because it just goes out of the can dryer and in a smaller pattern then with a gun. Hanging your parts rather then spraying them on the bench (?) will help immensely. Particulates from the surrounding towels and cardboard will blow debris right into your fresh paint. It'll sand smooth and polish out, but some of the dirt/particles might be encased and will never go away short of starting over from scratch. White would show even worse.

[Big T]

Painting is a learning experience, especially wit rattle cans

Since you're cleaning up, I suggest cleaning up your electrical connectors. A can of DeOxit seems expensive, but it is so effective that the cost is offset. Pull open a connection, spritz both sides with DeOxit, let it sit for a minute or two, reconnect, done. If really heavy corrosion is present, repeat as necessary.

Did anyone mention tire replacement yet?

[LOTO]

I shot another coat of base on the tank and did not get any of the gritty effect in the tank paint at all...location and other conditions were almost identical to the clear coat going on the side covers so evidentially the clear coat has some qualities/ingredients that possibly requires a different procedure. A Google search turned up this happening with a bunch of different people so I'll just deal with it in the buffing/polishing stage. I am going to get the clear coat finished on the side covers before I start clear coating the tank and will hang the tank and try to eliminate areas of dust.

Good tip on the electrical connections and the tires were new about 10 years ago and probably not more than 250 miles on them. Before I replace the tires again I'm going to make sure that I actually will ride my GS.
One question...should I clearcoat the frame or just go with the Rustoleum enamel?

[LOTO]

After thinking about it there is one thing that I did different from the base coat to the clearcoat application....on the clearcoat application I set the rattle can in a container of water that ran out of the hot tap in my utility sink..maybe set in the hot tap water for 5-7 minutes. The next clearcoat application on the side covers will be done using clearcoat at room temperature.

[nvr2old]

Soaking a spray can in very warm water is always a good idea. Shake it, soak it, shake it again. It does flow out nicer. You can hang your side covers, too. Attach a wire to hang it, then attach another wire (a short piece of clothes hanger works great) to one of the lower mounting tabs to hold in your free hand. It allows you to spray w/o the darn thing spinning or moving around

[LOTO]

Soaking a spray can in very warm water is always a good idea. Shake it, soak it, shake it again. It does flow out nicer. You can hang your side covers, too. Attach a wire to hang it, then attach another wire (a short piece of clothes hanger works great) to one of the lower mounting tabs to hold in your free hand. It allows you to spray w/o the darn thing spinning or moving around

I wet sanded the side covers down and applied another round of clearcoat and did things exactly the way I did with the clearcoat that came out with the grainy texture EXCEPT I did not immerse the the clearcoat can in warm water and both side covers came out looking great. I have a couple of small runs to wet sand out but other than that the surface is as smooth as a baby's butt.
The warm can technique works for many people and the next time I tried it this technique could work for me..

[LOTO]

btw....prior to wet sanding the side covers down I wiped them down with a clean, damp, cloth and the gritty texture appears to be tiny, tiny, air bubbles and most of them "popped" when wiping down.

[LOTO]

I wet sanded the tank again and will apply another base coat tomorrow or Saturday...the west sanding is actually getting kind of fun in trying to get that perfectly smooth surface.

A couple of things that I have really learned so far is to get any imperfections covered in the primer/filler stages because paint does not fill low spots very well even if the low spots seem tiny. The other thing is that wet sanding is your friend and don't be afraid to do it between base or clear coats...the scratches from wet sanding disappear even between coats of clear.

[LOTO]

My experience has been that the final finish is all about how you lay on the final clear layers. You don't really need a super smooth base coat, and has been mentioned if it is to glassy the clear will not adhere.


Here is a slide show of a 1980 GS1100L I did for Chef1366. He later buffed out teh clear, but it was pretty presentable as it was. This was my first black paint job with painted lines.

http://s449.photobucket.com/user/pos...GSR/Bills_Tank

When I say smooth I mean that there are no little/tiny holes or imperfections in the tank itself. I had 3 tiny spots no bigger than the head of a pin that didn't get tilled in on the primer/filler part of the tank and I have been fighting getting those tiny holes filled in with the paint.

[LOTO]

So it would be easier to touch up with sealer/filler and then base coat the areas again? I have Rustoleum filler and thought about doing that.

[LOTO]

My experience has been that the final finish is all about how you lay on the final clear layers. You don't really need a super smooth base coat, and has been mentioned if it is to glassy the clear will not adhere.


Here is a slide show of a 1980 GS1100L I did for Chef1366. He later buffed out teh clear, but it was pretty presentable as it was. This was my first black paint job with painted lines.

Final:

http://s449.photobucket.com/user/posplayr/slideshow/GSR/Bills_Tank

Prep:

http://s449.photobucket.com/user/posplayr/slideshow/GSR/Bills_Tank/Bills_Tank_Prep?sort=6

Paint:
http://s449.photobucket.com/user/pos...int_Job?sort=3

LOL...I see you need to thank the United States Postal Service for the free cardboard too

[posplayr]

LOL...I see you need to thank the United States Postal Service for the free cardboard too

For those posting to this thread you seem to be the most needy.

[LOTO]

For those posting to this thread you seem to be the most needy.

There are photos of USPS cardboard shipping boxes in your photos and hence the reference to the boxes......

[LOTO]

Wet sanded tank, hung tank, used tack cloth, let Rustoleum Enamel can sit in hot/warm tap water, and sprayed another base coat...this coat came out almost perfect with no orange peel or "sandy/gritty" look in the paint. Just have one very small paint sag and will wet sand it out in several days and apply the last base coat (hopefully).

IMG_8313 (800x600)

IMG_8311 (800x600)