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Into the deep end with an 82' gs1100e
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NCCNC
Thank you very much! I will have a look when the new wheel comes in.
Originally posted by isleoman
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NCCNC
Thank you very much for the advice. From the other stuff I had read, I was leaning towards the compufire.
Originally posted by posplayr View PostThe stator looks like it is overheating and so it is doubtfully original although it does have a nice OEM build quality.
You should definitely be looking at a SH-775 or I would prefer Compufire Series R/R. It will stop you from cooking stators and will also lower your operating temperature. For a stock 1100 probably 10-15 degF.
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Originally posted by NCCNC View PostThank you very much for the advice. From the other stuff I had read, I was leaning towards the compufire.
I posted a link last month fo someone selling them for $50 new. I don't know if anybody bought one or not. It is definitely worth a shot.
Looks like they sold 10 already with positive feedback; 6 left
Last edited by posplayr; 11-14-2018, 03:29 PM.
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NCCNC
Good looking out. Just pulled the trigger on one. I will take some pictures when it arrives. Thanks!
Originally posted by posplayr View PostIt costs more but you can fit it in the stock location and it is a more efficient device. That said you probably could not tell the difference for most things between it and the SH-775.
I posted a link last month fo someone selling them for $50 new. I don't know if anybody bought one or not. It is definitely worth a shot.
Looks like they sold 10 already with positive feedback; 6 left
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-PHASE-BY-...2/151945861488
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NCCNC
So yesterday started with a trip to harbor freight. I was only there to buy a new lithium ion power socket wrench. By the way, the "earthquake" 3/8" drive that they carry is a killer tool, and I would put it right on par with my Milwaukee. Well, if y'all have a HF near you, you know how this goes. Ended up with a new rolling work cart. I had just watched a comparison video recommended by a coworker, between us general, and husky, and I have to say.....this thing is a VERY nice cart! Beautiful paint, heavy gauge steel, excellent fit and finish, quality stainless hardware, the works.
When I got home, I had a stack of packages on the porch. Got my front wheel in. It looks great, and is super straight. Also received my all balls rebuild kit for the 4 piston nissins. As soon as the pads come in, I will get those things together.
My rear rotor showed up, as well as the hub/sprocket assembly. Pictures are side by side with the original gs hub. I will get hubs swapped here in a few days. (Thanks isleoman)
The gsxr forks are going to be finished next week, rebuilt and resprung, so I gotta figure out how I am going to use the gsxr damper in collaboration with the gs frame. I will get it whipped though.
The left side rear set also came in, so I will be making my mounting brackets over the next 10 days. I am crazy busy at work, but luckily we have a small cnc open that I can get my parts wrapped up in.
I got the stator out this morning and was going to start cleaning the old gasket off, but I realized it was 55 degrees outside, and not a cloud in the sky, so I threw on my gear and took the FZ out for a nice spirited ride.
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I have a blue million more items to buy, but within the next 7 weeks, everything will transition into the "building stages!!!!" SUPER EXCITED!!!!!Last edited by Guest; 11-18-2018, 08:02 PM.
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Enjoying reading about your progress.
On a side note, that old wood drawered toolbox looks beautiful.sigpic
When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"
Glen
-85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
-Rusty old scooter.
Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/
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NCCNC
Thank you. The toolbox belonged to my wife's great grandfather. Her family has been a very long line of machinists. I was lucky enough to fall into it. I have never found such a rewarding trade. Now that I manage the shop, I am not cutting nearly as much metal as I would like, but I go in alone on sundays and let the chips fly!
Originally posted by dorkburger View PostEnjoying reading about your progress.
On a side note, that old wood drawered toolbox looks beautiful.
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NCCNC
The bandit rear wheel came in today. Looks nice and straight so that is a plus. I got the bandit sprocket mounted to the gs hub, and test fit it into the wheel. Now I have to see if the rear gs rotor bolts will work on the bandit rotor and wheel. If not, I will have to buy a set. Also need to order my front rotors. On another note, the 3 phase compu-fire rectifier arrived and looks legit, but if is not, I am sure one of you guys will know straight off.
Here are obligatory pics!
GS hub with bandit sprocket
The new rear wheel
With the hub fitted up...
And the compu-fire
Last edited by Guest; 11-19-2018, 09:31 PM.
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That Compufire looks like the real deal. As a preventive suggestion, it is best to flow some solder into the crimps of the 3 pin stator connector end terminals (both side).
Also would solder the red(+) wire direct to the red wire from the harness.
Run the ground to a frame and make that the SPG. I used one of the seat cross brace bracket bolts.
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NCCNC
Those all sound like great ideas! Getting the solder gun out tonight. Thank you very much.
Originally posted by posplayr View PostThat Compufire looks like the real deal. As a preventive suggestion, it is best to flow some solder into the crimps of the 3 pin stator connector end terminals (both side).
Also would solder the red(+) wire direct to the red wire from the harness.
Run the ground to a frame and make that the SPG. I used one of the seat cross brace bracket bolts.
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Originally posted by NCCNC View PostThose all sound like great ideas! Getting the solder gun out tonight. Thank you very much.
Solder will not flow well onto a surface that even a small surface oxidation. If it looks OK then you can probably just use liquid flux and the acid it in will eat away the oxidation so that the solder will flow. If you don't do this you can over heart the conductors that melts the insulation.
To help prevent that clean as described, but you can also clip a needle nose to the insulation just next to the contact crimp so that it serves as a heat block. You can put more heat into the contact this way without melting the insulation. Squeeze too much and you will damage the soft insulation. Use a light touch.
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NCCNC
I am so glad you have thrown your hat in the ring on this thread. The direction is very much appreciated!
I am sure I wouldn't make it through this build near as quickly without GS Resources.
Originally posted by posplayr View PostGet some liquid flux and DeOxit.
Solder will not flow well onto a surface that even a small surface oxidation. If it looks OK then you can probably just use liquid flux and the acid it in will eat away the oxidation so that the solder will flow. If you don't do this you can over heart the conductors that melts the insulation.
To help prevent that clean as described, but you can also clip a needle nose to the insulation just next to the contact crimp so that it serves as a heat block. You can put more heat into the contact this way without melting the insulation. Squeeze too much and you will damage the soft insulation. Use a light touch.
https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ight=corrosion
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NCCNC
Well,it was a tedious evening. I got the front calipers reassembled. It was my first time, and I was second guessing everything. For being mechanically inclined, I sure was on the fence about getting it right. I kept freaking out that there was lent on the pistons. Anyway, I think it went well.
I also FINALLY got the gasket off the stator cover. It is like it had been superglued on, and then hardened to about 55 rockwell. It took 4 days and about 7 coats of aircraft stripper, but I was finally able to get that piece of crap off. Jeez, what a nightmare. I am now thoroughly terriified of the oil pan gasket.
Any who, I am two steps closer to completion.
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NCCNC
I was standing outside home depot, first in line on black friday, which isn't hard here, and scored a few new sets of tools. One for upstairs, and one for the basement. I bought this exact set for my wife last year, and always caught myself reaching for them, so I just bought some more. 199 bucks a set, and it came with 5 batteries and 2 chargers.
Came home and put that new ratchet to work getting that factory wiring harness out. I am now at the point of no return, because there is no way in heck it will ever go back in there. I felt like I was pulling battleship chain.
I also went and picked up my forks on Saturday. The guys did a great job. Clean work, affordable, and very straightforward. New race tech springs, as well as new seals, shims, and fluid. Here are all the old parts he threw in the box for me. This is the only part of the build I didn't want to tackle myself.
I found that I needed to torque the spanner nut down on the steering stem, so I put together a tool today at work that I could use with my torque wrench.
While at home depot Friday, that had shop lights for 3 bucks so I bought few, screwed some wood together, and made a little light stand so I could shed some horizontal light on the situation. It helped in collaboration with my folding magnetic light.
The next three weeks will be big weeks. All the tasks will be completed to be at a fully suspended (forks and shocks) rolling chassis, with brakes, and hopefully rearsets and chain mounted up. Playing it by ear right now.Last edited by Guest; 11-26-2018, 10:44 PM.
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Nice progress. Your harness looks like it is in real good shape. Here are some harness related links that I posted in the past specific to the GS1100EZ/ED.
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